hi i have a 1984 22r truck i need to change the timing guides whats the easiest way to do this? i have used parts from a 1985 motor thanks

 

Don`t use used parts, you can buy a complete timing chain kit for around 90 dollars, it comes with a new chain, gears, oil tensioner and seals, its just not worth the risk of using old parts.

 

I agree, use only new parts. The easiest way to do it is probably to pull the cover and change the guides. You do not have to pull the head or the oil pan to do it, but I recommend at least pulling the oil pan because there will be parts of the old guides in there along with other debris that should be cleaned out. Without pulling the head and changing the head gasket, you are not going to get a good seal where the head meets the timing cover. A little RTV will help seal it and is probably worth it if you do not want to take off the head. Taking off the head is not essential, but I would definitely drop the oil pan and clean it out.

Put a steel guide in there. If I remember correctly, '84 trucks can be converted to the old style double row and steel guides from '83 and earlier 22r/20r engines.

 

Buy the timing kit from engnbldr. 84/85 have a different head/block configuration so the parts aren’t interchangeable.

http://www.engnbldr.com/Toyota-Hotlicks.htm

 

First off, I would not recommend NOT removing the head. The head is already fastened on tightly and you'll end up damaging the mating surfaces while trying to pry off the cover from in between the head and oil pan.

Doing it the RIGHT way only takes another hour and an extra 20 bucks (for another headgasket by itself. You can actually remove the head with intake and exhaust still attached. Or... put in another hour (and another 40 bucks) and do the intake and exhaust gaskets. Don't let the vacuum hoses freak you out, most of them are dried out and keep their "curves" thus making it easy to relocate their destinations later.

As for "converting to a double row timing chain" there really is no conversion. Just specifically request a double row timing chain kit and everything fits on there with no troubles. You don't need a new camshaft/crankshaft or a new timing cover or anything. It all fits on just like the old pieces.

The most important information on this little project is this:

-Have a repair manual... believe it or not a Chiltons book is good enough.
-Why? It lists the "special pattern" for removing/installing the head bolts. You need to do it in this pattern because it reduces the possibility of head warpage (a disadvantage to any aluminum head) and it ensures that you won't have a headgasket leak.
-That means you SHOULD use a torque wrench with ft lbs.
-Keep track of which bolts go where, specifically the timing cover as this uses a variety of bolt lengths (and we wouldn't want to damage the block).
-Synchronize the timing chain correctly with both gears. Its fairly simple. There are brighter links on the chain that correspond with marked gear teeth. There are written directions which will be provided with the kit.
-And do a valve adjustment. IMPORTANTE



In short,

This project can be done by anyone who can read and apply it correctly. As always, members on the board are here to help... especially me. I've done this exact project more than once on friends' 22Rs. If you are are up for the job, I'm up for helping you out. And if I may add, its about 900 bucks cheaper just doing it yourself. Then you can look forward to a motor that will last longer than you will.

-Dan

 

x2. the 85 parts wont work on your 84.

and as for the conversion to double row, you will need a different oil pump gear that slides on the crank. your old single row will not work.

also you can do it without pulling the head and not affecting the seal... done it at least a half dozen to dozen times. you do have to lower the oil pan though, but you dont have to take it all the way out.

EDIT: the first picture here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f147...l#post50733048 shows the shorter oil pump gear.

 

x3 It really sucks when the previous owner put an 85 motor in your 84 truck.

 

I like the 85+ motors wayyyy better. piece of cake to convert them to FI...

 

I like my 85+ motor. It's just that I looked at the born on date for my truck, and ordered parts for an 84 when I did my timing chain. Then when I got it all apart I found out that it was an 85+ hand had to makie an exchange.

Two ways to check:
Pull your valve cover, 84 and earlier have a two-row chain, 85+ have a single-row.
There is a raised boss on the drivers side of the block, you can find pictures of it around, on the 85+ motors.

 

I dont think all of them. I believe you can have a single row timing chain 84 and older motor.

An 84 and earlier chain will have 96 links, 98 for 85+.
The raised boss is the easiest way to tell the blocks apart (which have different deck heights, hence the different chain lengths).

The timing covers are also different.

 

Incorrect. Toyota starting installing single row chains and gears in the middle of 1983. My 84 still retains its original single row setup.

 

Hear hear! I too have a single chain on my original 1984 motor.

 

I am about to do the timing chain replacement on my 84, I am confused as to why there is disagreement amongst you folks about removing the head? also

I was wondering how well the ports for the intake and exhaust manifolds match with the head. on my 87 Acura Integra the exhaust manifold was slightly larger than port in the head, so with a die grinder I was able to remove a bit of material and make the joint flow smoother, wondering if I could do the same for the 22R.

Also what else gets replaced when I do this, oil pump? water pump? can i get all this stuff from engnbldr? and gaskets?

 

There is disagreement about removing the head because the timing cover fits up underneath the head gasket and seals to the bottom of the head. If youre carefull you can put the cover in and up and not scar the headgasket, nor ruin the seal. A little silicone in the corners helps. You would have to lower the oilpan some to get it low enough to remove and reinstall.

Usually, like most vehicles, the ports are close, but not perfect. You could match port, but I dont know what kind of net gains you would see.

Oil pump is usually not replaced, nor the water pump. gaskets are just the timing cover to the block, and timing cover to oil pan (timing sets usually come with the front lip portion of the oil pan gasket and you cut off the old portion). Another thing that is usually replaced is the crank seal which involves removing the oil pump and popping it out (make sure oil pump gears go back in the same way (if your installing them into the front housing that bolts to the timing cover, the marks face out.)

 

I also have an 84' with 116k and I'm thinking of doing the timing chain myself. I've never done a timing chain before and I'm not sure if I should attempt this on my own. Do you think this work should be left to a professional? I don't have a garage so I would have to take this beast apart in my drive-way and I'm not sure how long I will take on this job?

Anyone have an idea how long it will take a first-timer?

 

my first time took me about 6-7 hours. I can do it now in around 3-4. Its really not too difficult of a job, but does require some good tools, and a little bit of know-how. I'd do a little searching and find some documentation on how its done, and see what you think.

 

I have a Chilton and I had a chance to review it. I have some questions:

How many people reface and lap the valves in the process of doing a timing chain?

When you take off the head do the valves and other components stay intact inside the head?

Do you have to check the valve clearances after the timing chain replacement? The Chilton isn't specific with that in the timing chain replacement section.

Do you have to replace the timing gears as well?

What else should be done at the time of a timing chain replacement?

Sorry for so many questions. . .



Also, I don't have a gear puller or a torque wrench, val

 

This is not a job for those of you who are not confident in your wrenching ability or have the tools to do the job from start to finish. At the very least, you will need a torque wrench and a set of feeler gauges. If you are asking yourself what these tools are or don't know how to use them, then proceed to your local repair shop! You will save yourself many headaches.

The reason why some guys do this without removing the head (myself included) is not so much the time factor, but the fact that these engines are prone to having head gasket failures much sooner than with the original factory head gaskets after they are replaced. The head bolts also become more stretched every time they are torqued and may not always retain the torque that you set them at and may even fail if they are torqued more than a couple of times. You also run the risk of contaminating either the oil system or cooling system or even getting crap in the cylinders when you remove the head. If you do decide to do this yourself, I would strongly recommend using a Toyota head gasket and not a cheap jobber gasket. There is a difference. I've had to replace at least 3 that have failed around the 30k mark because the coolant eroded the gasket and went passed the fire ring flooding #2 and or #4 cylinder. Coolant in cylinders=bent con rods and truck coming to a screeching halt on the freeway! Sorry for the sugar coating, just my 2 cents. Just remember whatever you do, keep it CLEAN.

 

I dont pull the head to change a timing chain. But if you did pull the head, I would treat it like I would any toyota 22R head gasket job, and then to answer your questions (assuming pulling the head):

I just pull them, check them, and lap them. Also install new guides/seals. Make sure the check the cam for any irregular wear, and replace if necessary.

The rocker assembly will sometimes come out with the head bolts. If it doesnt its being held in by the sticktion of the dowel pins on one side. A light pry will remove it. And its ok to remove it, you'll want to so you can have the head milled. (a side note on that, everytime I change a head gasket I have the head checked (if it did blow a gasket) and milled to give a great sealing surface). Always use a reputable machine shop, there is a limit to how much you can mill.

Also check where the rockers contact the valves for excessive wear. Replace if necessary.

The valves and cam will stay with the head.

Yes, you will want to check them, and adjust if necessary.

The timing gears will come with the timing set you buy. I've never heard of one breaking, but its good practice to just change them, you're in there anyway.

ALWAYS change the oil. you will get coolant in the oil pan, but its not that big of a deal, just make sure you drain it all out and replenish with new oil. Also good practice to chain the oil in about 500 miles to remove any break-in shavings or residuals from the proceedure.

Also change the front seal located in the oil pump, along with the o-ring around the oil pump. your there, might as well take care of it. also check the oil pump wear plate for excessive wear.

Finally check the insided sides of the timing cover for notches from chain wear resulting after broken chain guides. Too much wear = cracks = coolant in oil = engine failure.

Hope this helps a little.

I do agree with some previous posts that this will require a more than a bit of mechanical know-how and knowledge. If you're unsure, a knowlegeable buddy is suggested. Also anticipate downtime. If this is your DD, you may be without a vehicle for a day or two if you run into problems. Also, use a quality head gasket like a toyota OEM or a ROCK (i prefer rock). You'll thank yourself after about 50K miles.

 

Thanks for the responses.

I know all about those tools you mentioned. I just don't have a torque wrench, a gear puller, or a tap and die set. Anyway, after reading this entire thread on timing chain replacement I think I'm going to get someone to do it:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nt-pics-88722/

I would love to do this job myself, since this isn't my daily driven vechile. It seems that the head seal is a weak point in this job and I don't have the proper equipment to make sure the surfaces are perfect. Also, where do you guys get the replacement bolts if they break?