Mikeb44

ok so i took off the stock carb on my 83 22r to replace with a brand new weber 32/36. but now it smokes as it never did before with the stock carb. my question is the big port on the side of the intake that all the old vauum lines went into with four vacuum ports on it, isnt that one supposed to be completly block off and what vacuum lines should be used and not used?

csuviper

I am in need to vacuum hookup as well. Have an 84 but should be very similar. Bumping this so we hopefully get some answers from those knowledgeable people out there.

My main questions fall into two catagories:

1) I am having troubles finding how to hook up all the vacuum lines for my 84. Does anyone have pics or a good diagram from an 84? Lots more going on than what the diagram shows from Weber. The EGR vacuum modulator has 3 connections, not one. Is the dist connected to the vacuum switch still or just the carb? Where does the ASV vacuum line go to, or does it get plugged?

2) Will the Weber pass emissions? I say this because it seems like alot of vacuum lines are blocked off and/or re-routed.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Use the FSM to route your vacuum lines (I use the 1985 FSM for my 1983 pickup):
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/


As for a desmogged vacuum lines, see my post here for your answer and a pic.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114.../#post51907016
That's assuming that you removed all the EGR equipment

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Oh, and I'm pretty sure that you won't pass smog tests with a Weber. But then again, I live in Maryland and my truck is registered as historic so NO SMOG FOR ME!!

csuviper

I had the correct routing for the stock carb, now switching to the weber is were I am failing to understand what lines are capped and which emissions components can still be functional by rerouting them elsewhere.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If you're trying to keep your truck smog legal then I can't help you there. If you're not worried about smog then run the vacuum advance port closest to the radiator on the distributor back to the vacuum advance port on the weber and run the port closest to the motor on the distributor back to one of the vacuum advance port on the intake manifold. Yank all the factory vacuum hoses and cap all other vacuum ports. Your PCV valve hose will run down to the intake manifold (weber kits come with the block off plate and fitting to do this). Get a breather filter or run your breather back to the weber air cleaner.

warmonger88

I have a weber on my 84 and only one vacuum line left. I have the line from the distributor connected to the carb and all remaining ports on the intake maifold blocked off. I noticed that mine smokes too, but my engine also has 336,xxx miles on it, so it may not be related. I can take a picture tonight or tomorrow to post, but I also have a downey 2.5 inch spacer under the carb with a breater port on it, and I plugged the port on the filter mount. My weber is also a manual choke, not sure if there is any major differences between the DGV and DGEV other than the electric choke.

csuviper

So my Weber does not have an adapter plate and i dont want to remove the egr since i plan to get emissions done every year or 2. I will toss the old carb back on for that i guess (if i can get that to run ok).

My Weber also has an adapter for the stock filter housing so i will run the breather, mc valve, thermo valve, HAI diaphragm and ASV resonator to it still.

JonnyBoy

Does your state have a visual check for smog, too? If there's no visual check, all you need to do is make it run clean enough.
To Mike, and others, my setup may not be right for you, but it works for me.
As far as vacuum lines go, I have the port on the carb blocked, and the vacuum advance for the dist hooked up to one of the ports on that 4 port deal on the side of the manifold. My truck likes to run with plenty of advance, not sure if I have an aftermarket cam or not. Only other vacuum I have is the pcv line going from the valve to the underside of the air filter, my kit came with a 90 degree plastic elbow. All other small vacuum hoses were eliminated, left the brake booster line, obviously. Hope that helps, I don't have the rig right now to snap any pictures(a buddy is borrowing it while I'm helping him r & r his s10's engine), but I'll try to when I get to it if you want.

TACO626

I ran a Holley on my 87 for ~5yrs, the only vacuums I had hooked up were

1- brake booster
2- pcv valve
3- distributor

dont forget to add fuel

csuviper

I am not positive but I believe they do a visual check. When I brought mine in pre-registration it took forever and they were looking in the engine and under the truck. I wonder if I keep most things hooked up if I could get by even though they are not actually functional. I am pretty sure the carb port needs to go back to the distributor.

csuviper

Where does your pcv valve go? tee into brake booster or into intake manifold or into a spacer plate? Hmm fuel might be important.

csuviper

OK so I hooked it up how i think it should be for the distributor advance, pcv and brake booster.

1. Teed the pcv valve into the brake booster line before the check valve.
2. Connected the "normal advance" on the distributor (connection closest to the radiator) to the carb vacuum port.
3. Left the connection for the "idle advance" on the distributor (connection closest to the engine) connected to the vacuum connected to the vacuum switch.
4. Blocked off all ports that were connected to the old carb.
5. Left all other emissions related hoses connected as they were previously.
6. Installed the gas line with regulator set at 3psi.
7. Vent still connects to the stock filter housing.
8. Resonator still connects to the stock filter housing.
9. Charcoal canister also connects to the carb.

Here is the modified diagram of what my system looks like now:


Questions:
- By leaving some of the emission control stuff hooked up am i hurting the trucks ability to function properly or hurting performance?
- By leaving the Idle advance hooked up to the vacuum switch am i doing good or harm? Should it just be plugged?


I put it together as shown above and was able to get the truck running last night. Sounded good but the throttle cable/idle needs to be adjusted because it would die if I didn't hold the pedal down a little.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Your PCV valve DOES NOT provide vacuum, it's the opposite. Meaning that it uses light vacuum to help relieve the pressure in the crankcase. So "T-ing off" of your PCV valve to your brake booster does nothing for you since it does not provide vacuum. From what I can tell, I think you are trying to use the vacuum that runs to your brake booster as the vacuum for PCV Valve, correct? If this is the case, you will be getting very little, if any, vacuum to the brake booster which in turn renders your brake booster worthless.

The Green and Red lines look to be right. The Vacuum advance switch basically regulates the idle advance as the engine warms up. So you should be good there.

The normal advance (Red line) should go to the carb, you look good there.

Everything else is Emissions BS (If you don't have emissions then I would yank it all!)

As for the PCV Hose, don't tap into the brake booster vacuum. Just route it back to were it originally was or at least into the air filter housing.

What carb are you running?? Factory, weber or what?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

FYI,

This is the block off plate and fitting that comes with a Weber to hook up the PCV hose:


It replaces where the EGR Valve bolts to the head. You use this plate kit if your were desmogging.

csuviper

Thanks for the advice man. I am trying to keep it looking as emissions ready as I can to hopefully fool those doing the inspection. If i can keep parts of it functional that would be best too. I don't want to have to change it back to stock carb and back again every year just to pass emissions. Looking for advice on if anything can function properly or if by keeping something i wont get it tuned correctly.

Biggest thing right now is getting it to run so I can hit the trails soon as in this weekend.

As for the PCV hmm. There is a check valve between the t and the brake booster and the pcv acts as a check valve as well. I think this is acceptable. The egr block off plate with pcv valve connection just connects the pcv to the intake manifold just like the brake booster already is.

I have the weber 32/36 carb.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The problem with the T on the brake booster is that the Positive pressure from the PCV valve is going to rob the vacuum going to the brake booster. I don't think you want to do it like that. If you can't route the PCV valve back to its original source then I would just route it back to the air filter fitting that mounts to the bottom bracket of the air cleaner on the Weber where your breather hose would normally go. Then just get a breather filter for the breather on the valve cover. The PCV doesn't "need" to have vacuum going to it so you could get away with it.

csuviper

Air flows out from the pcv valve and into the intake manifold.
Air flows out from the brake booster and into the intake manifold.
Shouldn't matter where each of these is on the intake manifold, same function.
I understand that the flow of air (vacuum) could be affected since now it is sharing the same connection to the intake manifold. Just not sure if it would be enough to interrupt the brake booster enough to feel it when braking because the tube size seems large enough for the flow.

I am using the stock air filter housing so its easy to just connect the vent there.

I will go ahead and get the nipple and tie it into a separate spot on the intake manifold like this picture shows:


Now back to the idle advance (green line in my schematic). I have heard in separate accounts that it should be connected to the vacuum switch, intake manifold and plugged. Which of these three is correct?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Personally, I would avoid tapping into my brake booster line. They are come off the manifold separate for a reason, I would keep them that way.


Idle advance, Either or will work-The vacuum switch is what tells the distributor to advance when it's warm or cold. I personally have mine routed to the manifold, but that's because I'm desmogged. For you, I think that I would just go to the switch.

Wow, I certainly don't miss that hard vacuum line and all those extra vacuum hoses!

JonnyBoy

Seriously, stop screwing around with the T idea. The more unused ports you have on the intake and carb, the more likely they'll fail you on a visual if there is one and you attempt this. There's enough ports on the intake, use them. Find out if other people in your area have passed and find out for sure if you have a visual, call a ref or whatever you call them to find out if it'll pass. Make sure you're not doing all this for nothing first.