I have a Weber 32/36 on my 1980 and for the life of me, I can't figure this thing out. Idles fine until the truck comes to operating temp, have tuned and reset, tuned and reset, but still the truck wants to idle at what sounds like 2000rpm. I had to drop the tank a while back, thank you ethanol, and clean the carb etc. So what I have now, on ethanol free gas, is a strong running 20R that just wont idle right at all. I'm tempted to start looking for a way to put in efi... Any and all thoughts or ideas are welcome.

 

Any binding in the throttle cable? High idle can also be caused by a vacuum leak as well.

 

is the weber new or used? it could be used with upgraded jets or something designed for a different motor.

 

Jet sizes even air corrector sizes won't affect the idle or at least not put him at 2k.

 

No vaccum leaks to my knowledge, there are only a handful of places. The carb is/was new when I got it from Weber.com. I've often wondered about the linkage, but there are no obstructions to it and return springs are in place. I thought it could have been the electric choke sticking at one point, but after disconnecting and sticking it open, that wasn't it either. It's past the point of frustration for me, cause I hate taking carbs apart.

 

OT-Dahlonega-you with the Ranger School? Just curious

HOpe you get the weber figured out, mine is on the shelf ready to go on..

 

I went to college up there, did a little training up at the camp. Got the opportunity to rappel Australian down the 60 ft rock up there. It seems higher when you rappel face down! In regards to the weber, its not a bad gig. You lose like 40 vaccum lines, but they can be touchy at times. If you can find a gas station near you that still sells ethanol free fuel, take advantage!!!

 

so this is a brand new install and hasn't been on a long time and now just starting to do this correct?

Try taking the throttle cable off and forcing the carb closed by hand while it's running. This will tell you if its the linkage or not. I have seen (at least on mine) in the past the throttle plates just catch on the adapter/manifold because it's not quite centered as well.

As far as the vacuum leak goes, don't forget the adapter plate can also be a source of a leak. With the truck running, try spraying some carb cleaner around the adapter plate. The two-piece standard one likes to leak like a ..........

Also on mine i had to use a supplemental return spring as the stock spring in the linkage was so worn out it couldn't close the carb.

Another source can be the steel vacuum rail as well. I bypassed that altogether on mine and ran a hose directly from the carb to the front port on the distributor. The rear one should be left unhooked. (some people have run that port directly off a manifold vacuum source with success though. (Mine runs like crap that way)

 

I've had the truck running for about 3 years now. Engine was rebuilt, and carb was new. I'm going to go through and check/replace any vaccum line that may have started to dryrot or what have you. I have a supplemental spring on it I think, I'll double check that as well as the linkage itself, it may very well be the culprit. Thank you for the pointers.

 

While I am thinking about it, a frayed throttle cable will act a little funny too. I wouldn't worry about the plates hitting the spacer/manifold if it's been on for 3 years though. But I wouldn't discount a vacuum leak at the adapter. Yous is a two-piece right? Mine was leaking less then a year afterwards. I bought the transdapt 1 piece from summit racing (price matched from another cheaper online retailer) and I am extremely happy with it.

 

Is this the right adaptor for a Weber on a 22R? Does it make any difference which Weber? I don't know what DGV (shown on the web site) means.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969...entProductId=#

 

Same one I have. Race-mart.com had the cheapest, but summit matched their price including shipping for me and I had it in two days. I don't know if jegs matches or not. Check my build thread though, I did have to modify the linkage spacers on mine, the ones that came with the weber kit were not tall enough.

 

I ran into the same height issues as well. And if by two piece, I'm trying to remember, you mean that metal plate(s) that went between the carb and the manifold adapter. I honestly haven't looked at the adapter since I installed the carb, but seeing as how it had paper gaskets I wouldn't discount it from being the culprit.

 

If anyone is still looking at this thread, I drove the truck today and it was 30 degrees colder outside than yesterday and I had to run the heater.... When the engine was under load in this cool weather, it idled just fine. I'm beginning to wonder if it may be a mixture of a leak and/or timing. I have to run it advanced due to the high quality gasoline in today's market.

 

I had a similar problem with my Weber Carb that I recently installed. It is a used Carb, when the truck is in idle try to push the throttle lever back more. Even a tiny movement effects the idle quite a bit. I ended up having to add a return spring. I tried to loosen the limkage and that wouldn't help either. When I turned down my fuel mixture screw and dialed out my advanced idle screw that helped alot too. Now if ony I can get it to idle smoothly lol. I'm not a professional by any means but I hope that helps!

 

Oh also about that adapter plate leak, now that you mention it, I occasionally hear a whistling from the Carb area. I'm assuming that's an air leak somewhere too....

 

I would look for vac leaks. Have you adj the secondary screw? When i got my weber i had to re jet it to make it run right. Take some pics and maybe we can tell you whats going on.

 

Sorry I'm new to thus how do I add pictures? Its asking me for a URL?

 

x2 on the return spring. You won't get the fuel mix screw correct till you can get the carb to close all the way. Spraying card cleaner around the base gasket(s) will let you know if you have a leak or not. I hear air though mine as well, but have no leaks. I think it's the way the air metering works but not completely sure.

 

I got a set of spacers for the throttle linkage with the kit i just got last week...when I put it all together I found some slack in the return spring. I pulled the spring out and tweaked it, that seems to have corrected it enough for now, but I plan on adding a second spring. I had the same inconsistent idle issues.