I'm currently rebuilding my 22r with a 20r head. What part bolts on the water hole in the middle of the intake side and do I need it? I see they sell a block off plate on LCE but if it's necessary for a heater or something I'll need to track down the part. I have an offenhauser dual plane if that makes a difference fitting the part back on.

 

I'm not sure but I think that was the BVSV. I removed it when I did my desmog and just plated it off. Hope that helps.

 

Nope, block it off (Assuming you are desmogging). Your heater hose can run from underneath the intake manifold or from the back of the passenger side of the timing cover (Again, assuming you are desmogging).

 

Just read the desmog tutorial, I should've looked there in the first place. Thanks.

 

Yep, sure can!

 

I just desmogged by 20r. Am I correct that I can hook my heater hose to the metal line running to the rear of the timing chain cover?

 

Yes and no... The coolant basically circulates clockwise through the engine (when looking from above). That being the case, you want to make sure your heater is plumbed accordingly. You want coolant going from the passenger side of the engine to the control valve going inlet (passenger side) of the heater and from the outlet (driver side) of the heater to the driverside of the engine. If you do this backwards then you essentially won't be circulating coolant through the heater plus you could have other circulation issues.

So back to your question... you can go from the manifold on the passenger side line to the heater valve/inlet (passenger side) and from the heater outlet (driver side) to the driver side line line on the back side of the timing cover.

Make sense?

 

I am very new to trying this. I have removed the smog pump and the assembly under the intake manifold. I also removed the line and capped the back of timing cover. I capped the water inlet on top of intake manifold since I am doing away with water choke. So I have the heater hose hanging and not connected to anything. Do you possibly have a few pics you can show me with. I'm struggling a bit.

 

Can't really help you out with pictures since my truck currently looks a little like this:


But if you send or post some pictures of where you're at rigt now, I might be able to help you out.

 

Actually, this might help...

I will use the barb on the bottom side of the intake manifold plate to feed the inlet of the heater control valve (which feeds the passenger side of the heater core):


If you don't have that barb, you could also use any coolant bung on the intake manifold

Then I will run the outlet (passenger side of the heater core to the hard coolant line down by the driver side engine mount - there is a barb off of it from the factory for the heater core return (pictured below behind the alternator):


Or if you don't have the hard line (which I have discovered that some trucks don't) you can run it to the pipe that was on the back side of the timing cover on the driverside (circled in picture below):


Did that help?

 

here is what I have done waiting on my weber. I have also plugged all the vacuum portals that are open in this pic. I am going to run the heater hose to the timing chain cover on the passenger side. Will I need to tie the other line in anywhere to run it to the driver side to allow flow? If that makes sense.

 

Where is the heater hose going to on the driver side? I would just leave it where it is.

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2uebawwm.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psndximdsv.jpg
So I can hook up the line to timing chain cover on passenger side and it should all flow like it should since it's already hooked up on the driver side correct??

 

Since the driver side is already running to the backside of timing chain cover I should be able to hook the passenger side up behind the timing cover on the passenger side and it should flow correctly.. Am I right?

 

I'm sorry bud I've just never done this before.. The T.C. Is timing chain cover in the picture. Is this correct flow? Again, I apologize for questions but I want to make sure I'm hooking it up correct.

 

The bracket that the green arrow points to is the heater core valve I was talking about.

In other observations - I see vice grips under the hood of a vehicle... that is not good sign. Should we be questioning your mechanical prowess?

 

Ok. Well that is how in going to run it. LOL!! I had those holding the back of a bolt I couldn't reach with a wrench.. Didn't use them anymore after that.. 1 more question, do I remove and cap off this whole piece that connects to the hose that I will be connecting to timing chain cover? If so, where can I get it and can i cap off the metal hose under the intake?

 

line behind passenger and drivers side timing cover are BOTH input lines not output. center valve on 20r behind intake was the heater outlet(hot water output comes from this to the heater core). big pipe on top of intake was water choke outlet water comes from this to choke bypassing thermostat. water from water choke into line on back of water pump passenger side. when I used timing cover passenger side as my heater output. I got poor heating.

I now use metal pipe from center of 20r head and it goes to heater input. heater then exits firewall and enter lower radiator hose metal pipe on drivers side. I also have another nipple on radiator drivers side to do the same thing its blocked but there if I needed it.

Then either block off back of passenger water pump and big pipe on intake.... or just run a heater hose from the one to the other.

this is how to correctly hook up 20r heater after desmog.. if you use plate at center of head you will need to use big choke pipe on top of intake for heater input. problem with that is it flows pre-thermostat.

M

 

Well ladies and gentlemen.. I have my weber installed and here are some shots.. Thanks for all the info that was given to help me achieve this awesome result.. God Bless!!

 

Yota, That's exactly how mine is done. only difference is mines a manual choke. should have good heat too. remember heat only works correctly in defrost, and heat setting on dash. I'm glad it worked out!

M