Batousaii

Well, just dropped a new Engine in the truck, and now it’s time to replace the transmission. Yay ... <sigh>

- I have a 1982 4x4 with a 22r and a L50 transmission. A shop north of me specializes in older Toyota truck transmissions, and they are in process of rebuilding a L52 for me. So I come to you guys for some advice, hopefully one of the local Yotatech gurus, or someone who’s been through this can afford some kind advice.

- My Question: Done properly, should I pull the engine out through the engine bay with the transmission attached, If so, should it be the whole Trans/Transfer case assembly? or do I seperate one from the other at some point (i.e. separate the transfer case and leave it in the truck? .. or??...)

- Or is it proper to separate the transmission from the engine and pull it back and out from under the truck (leaving the engine in the bay)? I presume a Trans Jack would be in order if this is the case.

- Any advice that you guys can give me to the removal/install process of the transmission would be great. I’ve done other various cars and bikes, but this is my first Toyota 4x4, so I am still unsure of a few processes. I am no stranger to basic mechanics, but words of wisdom from those who have experienced this already would be invaluable. I DO have the FSM and a Chiltons, but they are a bit vague on the details of the process, and I can’t really ask it questions that it doesn’t already answer, you guys hopefully can. I've also done several searches and just dont seem to be finding the answer that gives the wisdom i need.

Kindly,
Bat

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

What are you trying to do? Pull the engine or trans? If the trans just needs to be pulled, pull the trans and t-case together from the bottom. No need to pull the engine back out.

Batousaii

H Jason, thanks for the reply. Well, new engine ate the old transmission, so now I'm replacing the transmission with an L52 (same dimensions and bolt pattern). I'll likely pull the engine too, and make sure the input shaft bearing (or gawd forbid the end of the crankshaft) didn't get chewed up in the transmission's dying process. So - Ya, both will likely come out for inspection at least. My goal is to have the assembly be as healthy as possible, so whatever technique is the easiest on both of them is the goal. Once back together, I don't want to worry about it for a long time (thats the plan at least).

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

If your pulling the engine anyway you can pull everything out then separate them

Batousaii

OK cool. So Everything out as a package then (Engine, Transmission, Transfer Case - Everything short of the unbolted drive shafts). - Sounds like a challenge

- Any tips or tricks, or pitfalls to be aware of? It is a long assembly, so I was concerned about balance, weight etc. Words of wisdom, notes from the experienced appreciated.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you have an engine lift already if not you'll need one, also invest in a "engine leveler" to angle everything with the engine lift. Removing the grill and core support will help but probably not necessary and of course several buddy's to help.

lledwod

iTrader: (2)

I would pull the transmission/transfer case from the bottom. I've done this many times (and installed as well). You will have good access to your clutch and flywheel for inspection. You do not need a transmission jack, I usually don't use one (as I don't own one). But if you go with out the jack do so at your own risk!

Good luck with your l52, I am just putting one back together as well.

PS support the engine at the rear of the oil pan with a jack. Controlling the angle the engine sits at helps a lot in lining things back up when reinstalling the transmission. Plus you don't want the engine to just hang there, stressing the motor mounts and or the exhaust system.

lledwod

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and both top bellhousing bolts can be got with two 17mm wrenches back to back (if you know what I mean - boxed end over the open end?) if they are tight. Other wise a good long extension or multiple shorter ones with a flexible 17mm socket work well.

Batousaii

Iledwod, How do you do it without the transmission jack?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

With a Regular floor jack carefully

lledwod

iTrader: (2)

If I think of it I'll take pictures when I put this one in. Low tech! No jacks. I've done it many times over the years, I've been driving these pre-84 4x4s for 20 years now.

81 Toyo

iTrader: (1)

I just dropped my L52 last week and used a trans jack ($89.) worked great. I would separate the motor /trans and pull them individually to make things easier. The tranny and trans are a lot of weight on there own to pull in one piece, add the motor too and its one big heavy unit.
Worst part of the job was the top 2 bellhousing bolts but it is doable with lots of extensions on the socket as others have mentioned. I've separated the trans/transfer on the ground and am now thinking of re-installing them separate once the new tranny arrives from Marlin to make it more manageable as I usually work alone.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

I pulled mine altogether and it was heavy! But not unmanageable. I was under the truck guiding the assembly over the axle and my friend up top controlling the engine hoist. The only problem was that everything together was too long for my engine hoist to lift completely over the core support to get out of the engine bay. And the core support does not come out!!!! It is welded to the cab system! Would have been a piece of cake if either the core support came out or I had an overhead hoist attached to a beam or something that way I could just go straight up with it and not max out the height of my engine hoist. Oh yeah and be sure and remove the shifters before you try and drop the whole thing.... I forgot and had to pull it back up into the hole to remove. Live and learn!

Batousaii

Thanks for the replies everyone.

- Well, to be honest, I looking for what’s best for the engine, not necessarily easiest for me personally. I want the engine to be a healthy, solid build that lasts years. So far, I’m thinking to take it all out as one unit, separate it when out, reassemble, and install as a unit again. A pain, but I get the impression that’s the “Orthodox” way of doing it, and likely best for the engine itself.

- I do have an engine hoist, and a leveler, so I should be able to manipulate the angle as it comes out and goes in. My only concern is top space. If the top core support is a pain, I might cut it out, and weld bolt tabs, so it can be bolted back together after. Not sure how much of a structural role it plays since the truck has a frame (Not a uni-body like my Integra). All it does is holds the top of the radiator right? – Anyways, Up over the top as one unit looks like it’ll be the healthiest for the engine. I have a sneaking suspicion what killed my transmission was re-installing the engine, and the weight tweaking the input shaft bearing… It was a pain going in, and really had to fight it. The new engine ate the old transmission in 110 miles. I just hope the input shaft didn’t screw up the back of the crankshaft when it was making all that noise.

- Anyone ever hear of a transmission input shaft messing up the rear of a crankshaft when the bearing went bad? It was making a helluva lota noise… a very rythmic Clink clink clink at low RPM, or high pitched Buzz at speed... a little concerned.

Kindly,
Bat

81 Toyo

iTrader: (1)

My input shaft end was visibly worn and ruff from contact with the crank end, thankfully the crank end looks fine....must be the harder metal of the two.

lledwod

iTrader: (2)

Let us know how it goes. I doubt that your input shaft damaged your crankshaft; I've never heard of it happening. The only contact the two shafts have is the last half inch or so, and this has the pilot bearing between them. (Assuming the pilot bearing was in there!) I do know those input bearings can sound pretty bad and still run for some time. Was your L50 still operational?

Batousaii

Wow, glad to hear the crankshafts (from your accounts) are pretty immune/resistant to damage. That’s a relief. I'll let ya all know when i get it apart for certain, but it's alot off my mind knowing the potential for damage to the engine's crankshaft is minimal.... whoo...

- Yes, my L50 transmission was still operational in all gears, it was just extremely clanky/clackity and noisy, to the point that I towed it home from work due to the previously mentioned concern with the crankshaft. I JUST purchased and installed this spankin-brand new rebuilt engine, and my wife would absolutely kill me if it got chewed up (it’s her baby too – we both love our Toyota). … Looks like I’ll be replacing the L50 with an L52, same dimensions, bolt pattern, splines, and gearing and it’s supposed to be a little stronger, especially where the input shaft is concerned. I want this truck to run a very long time, be dependable and reliable.

- I’ve got almost everything disconnected, and hopefully can get it out either this weekend or next. Not sure when the new transmission will be ready, hopefully soon, but I’d like to have everything prepped for it to go back in properly, and in a timely manner. I kinda need it, it's my daily driver

Thank again for all the input, been very helpful. Kudos to you guys, and the forum.

P.S. The shifter has been kicking my ass, turns out it's a simple "push down and rotate" locking ring. FSM/Manual is extremely vague on some of the finer details. lol. I'll know this truck inside and out, with intamate detail in short order :p

81 Toyo

iTrader: (1)

Yes I figured that out too when I dropped the tranny.....wish I had known that back when I redid the carpet in the 80.....would have been a whole lot easier than trying to work around the shifters.....next time I'll know...


where are you getting the trans rebuilt?....Marlin Crawlers has a 9-11 week wait on their L52's so I'm looking at July to finish mine...

Batousaii

Woo-Hoo! The daughter and I got the Engine, trans and T-case out as a unit. Went up and over with a little love. Got the t-case off the back, and the Engine off the trans. Was able to see the pilot bearing in the crankshaft, and…. It’s perfectly fine. The input shaft’s run-out was a little worse than when installed, but not so much worse that it would have affected the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. Putting my finger in the crank’s pilot bearing and It was perfectly smooth and feels as solid as the day I put it in (100 miles ago). All the noise sounds like it’s coming from inside the transmission, when I turn the input shaft by hand, it spins with a little “wirring” noise, then goes “clinck” at a certain spot, turn it either direction and every 360* makes the awful clink. So I can see how it would make a racket with engine load, as it was noticeable by hand.

The shop that’s building my transmission is north of me here in WA state. His website is http://trannymech.wix.com/happy-transmissions#! He is very willing to talk about how he builds them, and is even upgrading the input shaft bearing on the L52 over to a stronger roller bearing (instead of ball bearing). He seemed to really know his stuff, and expressed sincere interest in building a solid trans for my truck. I am enthusiastic to see his product and give it a run.

80toyotapick

I see you are putting a l52 I have one that I replaced the shifter housing and I see you have to pull the shift fork housing with it now I'm having trouble with lining up my forks the truck is stuck in 1st gear in the neutral position and every gear is different any advice or place I can go to figure this out