Sudden zero compression on cylinder number 3
#1
Sudden zero compression on cylinder number 3
Hey guys, My 82 22r pickup has been running awesome for the past two weeks until today. Its got a few miles on it but I don't understand how this happened. I parked my truck last week and it was running good, I go out there today and crank it and it was only running on 3 cylinders. I checked to make sure spark was good and it was, I pulled the valve cover off and spun the engine over by hand and everything seemed to be working as it should, all valve springs were opening and closing like they should be. When I put my compression tester on it it reads 170 on #1 165 on #2 0 on #3 165 on #4. Like I said before it was running like a champ when I parked it and no one has touched it since then until I cranked it today. I'm assuming either the intake or exhaust valve is either stuck from carbon build up or somehow it magically got bent or burnt while it wasn't running. The only modifications to the engine is it has been de smogged, egr block off kit and etc. Any suggestions on this would be greatly appriciated. thanks
#2
I was going to guess the lobe smoothed out on the cam, but you said everything looked fine.
If a valve was stuck closed, that cylinder would not fire but it would show compression.
How's the condition of the plug on that cylinder?
If a valve was stuck closed, that cylinder would not fire but it would show compression.
How's the condition of the plug on that cylinder?
#3
While checking the pushrods on my budies Harley, everything "looked fine", but he could not get compression on his front cylinder.
- Turns out the adjuster had backed up, and was ever so slightly holding the exhaust valve open. To the naked eye, it looked perfect, but in reality was not.
- After re-doing the pushrods - whoosh, full compression and ran great.
- Lesson: Dont go by what "Looks good" actually check each cylinder for proper valve clearance.
- 1982 Toyota 22r, Valves should be checked with the engine HOT.
Intake = .20 mm
Exhaust = .30 mm
Feeler gauge should have a slight drag, but not be tight, nor should it simply slide through.
- Turns out the adjuster had backed up, and was ever so slightly holding the exhaust valve open. To the naked eye, it looked perfect, but in reality was not.
- After re-doing the pushrods - whoosh, full compression and ran great.
- Lesson: Dont go by what "Looks good" actually check each cylinder for proper valve clearance.
- 1982 Toyota 22r, Valves should be checked with the engine HOT.
Intake = .20 mm
Exhaust = .30 mm
Feeler gauge should have a slight drag, but not be tight, nor should it simply slide through.
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