Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

weber running rich vac leak with spiral adapter

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Old 06-09-2014, 06:38 AM
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weber running rich vac leak with spiral adapter

Ok so I have my 32/36 weber for about 6 months now and also used the lc pro spiral adapter. Well I've been smelling a strong gas smell in the cab while at stop lights. My base line settings are at 2 1/4 turns out on the mixture and 1 1\2 on the speed. I have completely done a tune up and the timing is right on. The truck runs good and at idle it stumbles a little but but not to bad, also after I drive it awhile and go back to start it up say ten minutes later it takes a while to start. Now I have a try y header and a small cam to go with it. Also I sprayed carb cleaner around the base and I have a leak around the spiral adapter. With the strong gas smell I'm getting it seems I'm running rich but with the mixture screw more than two turns out it's telling my I'm lean. I'm problem gonna save and buy an offy intake and try to solve this vac leak, my question is with the cam and headers on my 22r should I try to re jet the carb and why am I smelling this strong gas smell
Old 06-09-2014, 06:48 AM
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I just wonder if I can fix this vac leak will it solve the strong gas smell and the starting issue when warm. I wish I knew more about carburetors but I don't and I would like some input on weather or not I need to rejet with the mild upgrades I've done to the motor. And I do have a fuel pressure regulator set at 3 psi. I think maybe the reason I have the vacuum leak at the base is because I took the carburetor off once before and reused the gaskets for the spiral adapter. I really want the offy intake just because I've heard great stuff about it but I mite try to get another gasket set for the adapter and try it. I'm just getting so frustrated trying to get this dang thing dialed in right.
Old 06-09-2014, 11:58 AM
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You have lots of info just in the weber manual they send you with the carb, if you didn't get that with the carb, you should read (and understand) this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...dapter-281120/

I know the setting on the 32/36 are slightly different from the 38, but on my 38 the throttle screw can't be opened more than 0.5 turns or it will run like crap (for reasons explained in the above thread). Also the idle mixture screw can't opened more than 1.5 turns since that is it's designed maximum, so right now your carb doesn't seem properly tuned, which will make it run like crap and smell fuel.

About the spiral adapter, I have the same opinion as bingle in the thread I posted above where he answered your question, people usually don't have problems with the spiral adapter, have you torqued it? cross pattern? It may be leaking because you took off the carb and re-used the same gasket.

So in that order:

get the leak fixed
get a jet kit
tune

and all should be well.
Old 06-09-2014, 02:38 PM
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Yeah I'm gonna try
Old 06-11-2014, 06:25 AM
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Ok I ordered a new gasket for my spiral adapter and order new idle jets, there bigger than what came with the weber, anyway I talked to redline and he was the one that said I was to lean because of the headers and cam but I didn't ask him one thing. So when I go to change the primary idle jet do I need to go up a size on the secondary also or just change the primary only. I'm just trying to get all the info I can.
Old 06-12-2014, 12:19 PM
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You really need to get a hold of the Weber tuning procedures. Assuming you have your ignition timing set correctly tuning your Weber is a process that takes time, rushing through it will get you into trouble. You start with the idle circuit, once that's balanced out you go to main jets then to air jets.
Old 06-13-2014, 08:04 AM
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How big of a cam are you running? What's your overbore?

On a 100% stock 22R you're going to have to up-jet everything.

Ideally you'll be 1-2 turns out on your idle screw. You should be idling around 750-850 stock, more if you have a large camshaft. Ignition timing between 8-10 degrees BTDC.
Old 06-13-2014, 05:03 PM
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I have have a 261 crawler cam and try y headers and the motor is not bored im right at 1 and a half turns out on my speed screw and 2 and a quarter turn out on the mixture screw but I smell gas very strong and it as hard to start after its warm. Im learning all I can about this stuff just hopefully I can dial it in
Old 06-13-2014, 05:18 PM
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You definitely need larger idle jetting. You'll need to jet the mains and air jets as well but you need to start with the Weber tuning procedures and a jet kit.

I'll sell you my 32/36 jet kit and photo copy the tuning procedures for the cost of shipping. Probably under ten bucks. That'll get you going.
Old 06-13-2014, 05:30 PM
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Supposedly having your mixture screw out more than two turns can cause fuel drip inside the carb. There could be other issues as well, but lets start there.

Your cam is hardly more than stock, enough for a noticable power bump. It will want more air/fuel than a stock 22R. When forcing a 22R to choke through a single 32mm venturi at idle vacuum leaks can be more common. Your setup is pretty mild so jetting it up where it needs to be will help.


I just re read and discovered you ordered jets already, no worries. Starting with the basic carb jetting may solve your problems. What FPR are you running? Some cheap ones, especially dial types, are prone to leakage and could cause your fuel odor as well.
Old 06-22-2014, 09:58 PM
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Had sort of the same issue with my 22r with the 32/36 weber been like that since new and today I figured the leak smell and got it running better then ever actually it's never run this good so I took my brand new 32/36 apart and found the float level way off set it at 38 mm with a 51mm drop timing at 5 deg advanced and set the mixture screw at 2-1/2 turns out starts great and no more leaks runs sweet too. So in the end my float was too high overfilling the bowl which then would flood the engine out and leak fuel by the base gasket hope that helps sorry for the super late reply but that all went down today
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