So just a bit of back ground, new engine, new weber 32/36, new plugs and wires, cap and rotor, new starter, had new GM ignition module and accel super coil. New electric fuel pump, new Holley fuel pressure regulator,new fuel filter and line.

The problem I'm having is it doesn't like to start. Even when it's warmed up. The choke is not hooked up right now so it doesn't start cold well. But it did when it was hooked up. But it just cranks forever and I need to feather the gas. It seems like the longer it sits after driving it the easier it starts.
Once it's started I need to keep giving it gas or it will die. Even after warm the idle will creep down and die unless I give it a little gas. Once I drive it on the highway for a minute it will
Idle normal. But if I'm sitting and idling and I turn the wheel it will loose rpm And die.

I checked for vacuum leaks and can't find any. I'm lost! And I'm tired of working on this thing! Anyone have any ideas?

 

Define "new engine" for me. My definition of a new engine would be complete engine that has never rebuilt or installed. If it has been rebuilt, who rebuilt it and do they know what they are doing?

From what you said so far, I'm assuming that you have air, fuel and spark. That only leaves timing and compression. Have you checked the timing and compression??

Also, get the choke hooked up and make sure that it isn't sitting wide open and causing this problem...

 

Ignition timing? Familiar with carb tuning?

Try setting your idle screw high and tell us what RPM it will idle at. This sounds like a tuning issue to me. Perhaps fuel starvation at idle. Any cam/performance mods?

Are your spark plugs white, tan or black?

That's all I can think of now with the wine in my system.

 

I'll tack on, if you're local to Seattle, WA there's a chance I might be able to help you out this Sunday.

 

It's a rebuilt engine from a shop. And it has 5-6k on on it am I'm pretty confident it's not structural.

So last night I pulled of the cap and rotor and there was a lot of metal dust in it. And the contacts in the cap have big grooves in them. My grandpa said when he ran hotter coils he made sure to get brass contacts because the aluminum doesn't hold up.

Also we put a vacuum gauge. And it was staying consistent at 15. Which my grandpas old man book pointed to ignition timing. So I bought a new cap and rotor and put it on and no difference, but were about to go check timing.

But one more thing. With the new cap and rotor it started ticking under the cap after a few minutes. So I took it off and put it back on and it stopped? Could I need a new distributor? I'm pretty sure it's not just carb tuning either, my grandpa and I are both pretty good with webers. Thanks you guys

 

Just check the timing and see what happens

 

My grandpa checked my timing and said it was
Dead on. We advanced it a little bit because that's where it ran it's best. We have to have the idle set screw in pretty far for it to idle good all the time. But still I always need to give it 1/4 throttle or so to start it? And the vacuum is low on the gauge but doesn't really flutter around. This truck is sucking the life out of me.

 

What was the timing set at? And does your Grandpa know that "dead on" is 5* BTDC at 950rpm max with the vacuum advance cut?

 

I don't know what it's set at right now but it never changed since we timed it last time which wasn't too long ago. Yes we had it idling a hair under 1000 and the vacuum advance blocked off. Could the timing chain have skipped a tooth so cam timing is off?

 

nothing is going to run right if the timing is off so you're wasting your time chasing gremlins without verifying that the timing is correct.

 

There are many things that can cause problems like this. In order to find out what IS causing them you have to slow down and provide us with as much hard data as possible. Meaning, we need to know what the ignition timing is. LCE recommends no more than 10 degrees BTDC on modified engines at 1k RPM. Toyota recommends no more than 8 degrees at 950. Realistically you can run it as high as you want so long as it doesn't ping.

This is one small part. You could have a problem with your fuel system, carburetor, valve timing or adjustment, etc... Let's stop focusing on what might be the problem and start focusing on solving the problem. Start with ensuring good ignition timing. From there, move to carb settings assuming you have adequate fuel coming in.

Black smoke out of the tailpipe is a strong indicator of a rich condition as are black spark plugs. Being you're running a 32/36 I would guess it is too lean if there are jetting or carb problems.

 

Also, re-reading your initial post I suspect your fast idle and choke likely need adjustment. There is a thread in this section about Weber tuning. Check it out. But first verify your ignition timing.

 

If the idle speed screw is screwed in too far (on my 38 it can't be more than 0.5 turns) it will not run and idle well for reasons explained in this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...tuning-261129/

In my weber manual it says it is the reason for 95% of the problems people have with their webers.

 

My grandpa said it was at 5 degrees last night an he moved it to 10 because that's where it idles best. But we are just playing. I've already replaced the whole fuel system.
I can get it to idle fine.. But I can't get it to start without giving it gas..

 

As long as your idle speed is below 950-1k rpm 10 degrees is just fine. If you hear pinging under heavy load either retard it a bit or step up your octane until the ping goes away.

It's not uncommon for carbureted vehicles to require a pump of the gas pedal before they'll start up, especially when cold with low outside temps. If you have to feather the gas pedal a bit it's nothing to fret over. Does it still start hard or does it start easy if you pump the pedal? Other than this, how does it run? Idle smooth? Decent power?

 

Great power good idle. It's harder to start when hot too. So temp isn't to big of a difference.

 

That's odd. Have you upped your idle jets? Could be easier to start cold because the choke is closed and it's richer. You can try getting it to operating temp, shutting it down and setting the choke closed manually and see if that helps.

Weak spark could also be a culprit since the ignition system has been touched. I think it's lean though.

 

I bought the carb from LCE and it was rejected for the 22r

 

I bought the carb from LCE and it was rejected for the 22r

 

It could be heat soak or vapor lock. Do you suspect a rich condition or smell raw fuel when the engine is warm and off?