just picked up a 1983 pickup, considering a lift kit, would really like to clear 35" tires but prefer a bolt on kit. called skyjacker they say their 5" kit will clear 37" and their 3" will clear 35" that seems a little off to me...? anyone
running a 5" kit what will it clear without rubbing when twisted.?

 

I think that you could probably clear 35's with the 3". Does the skyjacker 5" require tweaking the spring perches to get the pinion angle back in line? Most of the other 5" kits (marlin, trail-gear etc) require rewelding the spring perch for driveshaft angle. Just something to consider if you are looking for straight bolt on installation..

Post up some pictures when you get a chance, we always love seeing a new project...

 

i ran 35s with no lift, got um now with a 2" body

 

35" with no lift? i might barely squeek a 32" im sure 33" would wipe the fenders off. and 35" flat out won;t fit. im thinking 3" lift should clear 33" tire with no rubbing when twisted. maybe 5" for 35?

 

33s stock

32s stock

35s stock

2" BL and 35s



they fit, only minor rubbing with 35s stock

 

How do 33's not rub ith stock suspension? I'm running 35's with a 3" spring lift and get the tires rubbing on the rear of the wheelwell at full flex/turn, 33's were close but never hit.
truck2011.jpg?t=1197294929

 

mine is stock and it in no way sits that high i have about 3 to 4" clearance in the wheel well with 30 / 9.5. a 33 might physciall fit but it would rub like hell in turns or twisted. and a 35 ain't gonna go!
yours doesn't look even close to stock ride height. but back to the subject
3" for 33? 5" for 35? or 7" for 35?

 

My truck has got some kind of lift along with a 3" body lift. I run 35's but could definitely fit some 37's or 38's. I'd be willing to bet a 5" suspension lift would clear 37's.

 

35's look better but need more than 3", I never had a problem with 33's. If it's a dd go smaller, I ran 32's for years and was very happy with them, the 35's don't handle well on the road (too much sidewall flex) but they do add some ground clearence.

 

hey Guys called nwor they said their 6" kit will clear 35/36" tires with drop dragline and brakeslines was still pretty reasonable for a bolt on kit with no driveline mods. i assume yota is all they do they must have it dialed in.
and now we know !!! it takes 5 to 6" to clear 35" with no rubbing twisted.
Now its time for the greasy stuff..gears...lockers....longfields....let the games begin!!

 

the 3 inch fits 35's my friend has that exact same set up on his 82

 

my truck is at stock height! i had 33s on a parts truck and 32s on my 79 and the sat equal!!!
1982 BONE STOCK! with 33s


the white 82 has 33x12.50s and my 79 has 32x11.50s the 82 is in a bit of a hole in my backyard to, but both sit at the same height


i even bought stock shocks with not problems for my 79!

y is it so hard to believe that a stock first gen can clear and run 31s,32s,and 33s, and clear 35s?

 

These are 33's on my 81 with some unknown 4" lift...Yeah I should've gone 35's but Just did not want to re-gear just yet Should have just gone straight to 35's and forgot about using 5th gear till 5.29's went in.



If you go 35's it will be a dog unless you re-gear...plus the stock brakes have a hard time with them unless you do a 86-94 rear end to get the 10" brakes and do a bigger FJ master cylider and IFS calipers/rotors..yes those are my list of things to do...

 

Nothing against NWOR but from what I understand their springs are stiff as hell....I have got a set that my brother in law gave me. Later I find out he only ran them for a week because he has zero flex in the back..I was going to use them to get rid of some rear blocks in my truck but am going to wait until I have the $$ to do it right with a Trail Gear rear kit..more money but the springs will function better for what I want to do with my truck.

 

Damn guys, what happened to a decent liftkit for a moderate price, i understand trailgear and allpro are nice stuff but if im gonna spend 1500 to 2000 for a kit i gotta weld-up im goin swayaway coil-over fullout. Im looking for something decent at a workin mans price i can bolt-on and call it a day.

 

Don't get me wrong, there are ton of folks out there that have gone with Downey or NWOR. Just my sister told me the story of the fight she and her husband had over the 'waste of money' on the springs when my bro in law said they did not work for what he wanted and ended up pulling them after a hunting trip a week later....Good luck with whatever route you go...

 

3" downey fronts.
or just get some jeep yj springs and throw em on it.get either 2.5" lift springs or 4" yj lift springs.they ride nice.get the yj rears.they move your axle forward a 1/4"
if you do 4" yj's you will have fart around with driveshaft lenghts cause they flex real nice.2.5" im not sure but i doubt it.bolt on affair.

 

Well if you don't want the springs then ship them my way! My stock saggy springs with blocks suck. It made the rear level, but that's all I can say.

That is if they fit an '86 4runner?

 

thats definetly true
driving on the washboarded dirt road outside my house beats the crap out of everyone in the truck. i hauled a literally tons of rocks in the back of my truck (like a ton at a time and the springs were bottomed out), and it finally softened a little but they are still rough as hell.

 

Ok il be dead honest here.

Dont waste your time with cheap lift kits, The springs are always too short from eye to eye and leave you with a nasty shackle angle, another thing I noticed thats common in kits is the springs are extremely stiff, and ride really hard. I have Procomp 4" springs myself and they aren't gonna be in there long I can tell you that. The shocks they supply in kits are sub par, the brake plate extenders are cheesy and drop drag links are goofy too.

The only leaf spring brands I trust for our old Yota's are Downey, Trail gear, Alcan and Marlin.