Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Shackle questions

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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Shackle questions

My truck has about a 4 inch lift on it, my front leafs are almost flat though. Is that normal?

Also they used the stock shackles after they installed the lift. Would it hurt to go with 5.5 shackles all the way around, only 2 inches more would that hurt the angles on the front. I have searched all this and noone actually awnsers this.

What size is everyone else running? Pics?
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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From: Souderton, PA
What kind of leaf set up in the front?

I'm running homemade 6" shackles on my 79

most off the shelf SA kits come with a 6" shackle

remember for every 1" of shackle (eye-to-eye) length, you gain .5" of height
so stock being 4", using a 6" shackle will net 1" of extra altitude.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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i am not positive but since it has superlift shocks i would think superlift leafs. They are only a three leaf pack. Stock is 3.5.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Champ
i am not positive but since it has superlift shocks i would think superlift leafs. They are only a three leaf pack. Stock is 3.5.
Stock is indeed 3.5 ::hangs head in shame::
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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The only reason I could see for going with longer shackles is to either improve shackle angle or to add a bit of extra lift. Which are you looking to achieve? I run 5.5 inch shackles all the way around on my 80 (RUF's and 63's) and they seem to do quite well. For every inch longer than stock you will get approximately .5 inches of lift.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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If your springs are flat, then there shot. Adding a longer shackle won`t really help you, you need to replace the springs.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 01:16 AM
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From: Souderton, PA
Originally Posted by myyota
If your springs are flat, then there shot. Adding a longer shackle won`t really help you, you need to replace the springs.
Not necessarily true, my 63s are just about completely flat and still flex like a mofo.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 04:30 AM
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So are you just looking for more lift?

:wabbit2:
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 04:31 AM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by myyota
If your springs are flat, then there shot. Adding a longer shackle won`t really help you, you need to replace the springs.
I agree and disagree, if they are flat they are shot however using a longer shackle will allow it to swing a little more and take away some but probably not all of the negative arch you will get from stuffing your tires.

This is probably why 4banginRunner says his flexes pretty good considering his are flat. This is assuming he has longer shackles with his 63's.

But putting longer shackles on is just a bandaid fix to the real problem. Flat springs.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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I am looking to do a couple things. I am just trying to figure out the order. I want to maximize travel for right now.I will be swapping all my leafs to trail gears 5" leafs and adding new perches to ensure correct angles without shimming. I just figured if I could add the longer shackles for right now that might work untill I get the lift on.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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get your RUF on! get those flat superlifts out of there! probably cheaper than buying brand new shackles from trail-mart, assuming you know how to weld and what you are doing.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 02:37 PM
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From: Souderton, PA
Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
I agree and disagree, if they are flat they are shot however using a longer shackle will allow it to swing a little more and take away some but probably not all of the negative arch you will get from stuffing your tires.

This is probably why 4banginRunner says his flexes pretty good considering his are flat. This is assuming he has longer shackles with his 63's.

But putting longer shackles on is just a bandaid fix to the real problem. Flat springs.
A longer spring (IE. 63" Chevy) will lay flat(er). My springs have never gone negative, even at full stuff. Im almost ashamed to say my shackles are 8" eye-to-eye, only because when I originally did the 63" swap, I was running BJ spacers on IFS, with a 5.5" shackle. When I went with SAS, I needed a 2" block, 1" zero-rate, another leaf, and I made my own shackles (3/8 plate, 2x2x.120 brace). I can still tuck my 36s without going negative.

Another advantage to the longer shackle, way it rotated my pinon back closer to where it should be (still bought 4* shims, didnt feel like pissing with new pads seeing how between 3 Toyota I swap rears like underwear ). Though a longer shackle in the front will hurt your pinon angle (twists the axle so the pinon points downward).

Clear anything up?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
yeah it does pretty much, but you think they wouldn't go negative if you just used a 5" shackle?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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From: Souderton, PA
I really don't think I could get them to go negative unless I mess around with my bumstops. Stock location with the stock bumps works amazingly well with the 63s. My shocks are also in the stock location (longer shocks of course, Superlifts, which I have the part# if needed). Both I think contribute to the flexibility of my set-up. Ride is really good considering what it is, was better with the IFS, but who's concerned with ride quality at this stage of the game?
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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So will the aftermarket leafs that are installed on my rear now work in the front? What years were the 63s in late 90s model 1500? Do you want two wheel drive or four? Then run what ,,5.5 shackles in the rear? What length up front?
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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From: Souderton, PA
Originally Posted by Champ
So will the aftermarket leafs that are installed on my rear now work in the front? What years were the 63s in late 90s model 1500? Do you want two wheel drive or four? Then run what ,,5.5 shackles in the rear? What length up front?
Yes, but they will make it HUGE, working with stock leaves gives you 3-4"

63's, EVERYTHING you'd need to know is here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...threadid=20665
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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would you still use the 63s in the rear with the aftermarket rears up front? Or would you have to order after market rears
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Champ
would you still use the 63s in the rear with the aftermarket rears up front? Or would you have to order after market rears
Why not go with waggy springs in the front? Solid 4-5" of lift and flex like a mofo
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Waggy? Jeep waganeer? what year?
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Champ
Waggy? Jeep waganeer? what year?
yes...
Ran them on my 79 for a little bit when I had it together, crazy flex.

Any year i'm pretty sure, 7 leaf pack
Copied from Pirate

WAGONEER / WAGGY SPRINGS
These are stock Jeep Wagoneer Springs
Length: 47" (Length is eye to eye)
Bushing: 3"
Lift: 3.5 - 3.75"
Cost: $200 New, $60-$100 Used
From JcWhitney.com:
1976 - 1992 Jeep Wagoneer, Front Leaf Spring
7 Heavy-duty Leaves #07ZX2048P $99.95 Ea
5 Leaves #07ZX2047B $84.95 Ea
The 7 leaf is supposed to be the ones you are looking for.
Pinion angle can be an issue if you just bolt waggs to the stock location. If you have dropped hanger or dual cases the problem is lessened.

44044 SPRINGS
44044s are Rancho Jeep Wagoneer Lift Springs.
Length: 47" (Length is eye to eye)
Center Pin split (front/rear) 22.5"/24.5"
Bushing: 2 3/4" & 3"
Lift: 5.25 - 5.5" (Lift is approximate and uses 1.5" longer than stock shackles giving 3/4" of lift)
Cost: $250 (Cost is for both sides incl. shipping/give or take)
44044's do not (by themselves) move your axle forward. They are the same length on the front half as stock toys (22.5"). While they do move the axle forward because of the lift they provide (arch in spring), when they compress to the point that they are flat, it's the same. Estimated 1/2" of actual axle relocation forward.
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