minigun

Al most done with install but can not get axel to move forward enough line up with center pin of leaf spring. Only thing I can think of is that bar link from the frame to axel bracket. Does one need to remove it or shorten it, is it even needed?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Go hi-steer. But have seen post where some removed and kept push-pull steering. But others complained about removing it.

minigun

I replaced the steering draglink from the steering arm to the J arm with a drop down unit from pro comp. I'm talking about the straight bar with 2 eyelets held on by two bolts going from the frame to a bracket on the front axel on the drivers side. Not sure what it is called or it's purpose. it is not a sway bar as they run across side to side. This runs from the inside of the frame back down to a bracket on the axel and is only about 14" long.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Trac-bar (has another name too but I forget). Used to stabilize axle for push pull steering. High steer totally eliminates need for it and allows better articulation for front axle. But being as you lifted truck with rough country offroading performance isn't a big concern so perhaps an adjustable trac-bar, all assuming lift is installed right. Call tech support.

Like I said earlier I've read where some remove it.

You need to do more search.

81 4X4

Remove it. It's to short now. You can cut it and have it made longer. Mine doesn't have it. I'll probably cut it and make it longer at some point and put it back on.

minigun

actually it was to long, as it was preventing my axel from moving forward enough to engage the centering pin on the leaf spring. Once the track bar was gone it dropped right in place.

BlazeN8

The Torque Arm is what your discussing!





The one in my photos is an adjustable one that came on my 1985. I believe it may be a Pro-Comp unit? I've been meaning to find new poly bushings as these are shot and re-installing it but I keep on forgetting to get to it.

Without the Torque Arm the axle will rotate when braking and will cause the truck to pull to the side under heavy braking. Very sketchy!

minigun

The part in question is also referred to as an anti wrap bar. Apparently the wedges that came with the kit rotated the axel enough to make it to long. I can not find the above pictured part anywhere to replace it. Suppose I could bend it to shorten it and weld a gusset to reinforce the part. guess I need to lengthen my arm for the proportioning valve for the rear brakes as the truck pulls to the left when braking. The pro comp drag link is a pain in the butt as it must be dismantled on one end to lengthen or shorten it as the designer has right hand threads on both ends, like really? All that trial and error to center my steering wheel? Oh well. Just minor stuff I guess.

BlazeN8

Yeah, pain in the bleep for me too, I can't find the right size poly bushings. I think it may have been a Downey product? Guess that is why I keep putting it off. That and I want to go Hi-Steer eventually. Like you said, I too was annoyed with the RH threads on both ends so it can't be adjusted unless you remove one side. Yotamaster Eric warned me about the pull upon breaking resulting from no Torque Arm. For the proportioning valve at the rear just space it up from the axle housing attachment with a section of flat stock 1"x3/16" and properly located holes. Space it up equal to the amount of lift you installed to the rear. This is a super common bracket from anyone who offers a rear lift if you don't want to make your own.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The torque rod should be too short after doing the lift. Since you say that it is too long then that suggests that you may have put the shims (wedges) in backwards or installed the springs backwards. The shims should have been installed with the thicker portion towards the front to maintain the correct caster angle. Also, the stock springs have the center pin equally spaced in the middle of the spring pack. If the center pins are not evenly spaced on the springs (not sure about the RC spring geometry) then you may have them in backwards.

I went with Old Man Emu springs and completely removed the torque rod on my 83. I still have the factory push/pull steering (with Sky Off-Road HD tie rod) and I don't have any problems with axle wrap or any additional bump or brake steer over what I would have had with the torque rod. My truck is driven rather regularly and nearly 100% on the road without any lingering safety concerns so removing it isn't the end of the world.

On another note, better get a good chiropractor... I had those RC springs before I did my restoration and they beat the living crap out of me! Quite possibly the most stiff riding springs I have even driven on - on or off road.

CAdot

iTrader: (2)

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