hey guys i had to replace my front driveshaft for my 81' 4wd and the end buckets are not enclosed metal like OEM, they are open, leaving my nuts exposed on the front axle and transfer case. anyone have this issue? and is there a dust cap that i can use on the ends to keep dust and water out? my old prop shaft was toast. i know the old land cruisers had dust caps but not sure if they are the same size? worse comes to worse, i can bevel a piece of beer can and sandwich it on the mating surface to seal i suppose. but i'd like to be professional with this. there's gotta be some cap that fits the hole

 

I have no idea what you are referring to. What do you mean by an "end bucket"? The drive shaft / U joint yokes? The companion flanges / drive shaft flanges? There are no "dust covers" on that drive shaft. There is nothing that I can think of that the FSM refers to in your query.

Maybe a picture?

 

yes the end yokes. Notice how the stocks are sealed or at least enclosed? New one is wide open so I’m wondering if anyone had this issue and if a dust cap could be installed

 

Who made the new one? Id ask them if they have something for it.

 

it was some eBay company, so doubt it…might just end up getting my stock one rebuilt but the double cardan joint was completely shot, so the drive shop wasn’t too into that pain in the ass :/

 

So I see your problem. You may have to do the beer can fix temporarily.

There are "seal plugs" that are basically an oil seal without the centre hole; you may be able to size some up to fit the holes. They are a precision fit so you will either need to take the shaft or measure them accurately. Using your steel scale should be good enough. These plugs are available from industrial power train / bearing suppliers. They are about $10 a piece. Put them face out to the mud.

McMaster Carr sells countless plugs; I am thinking of the ones used to protect the threads on hydraulic fittings and hoses. Also Grainger and Fastenal but sometimes they don't want to sell to individuals...insurance liability BS.

I'd be concerned that the drive shaft is properly centred on the flanges when installing if there is to much clearance in the bolt holes. This could result in vibration. It doesn't look as the raised lip on the flanges is the same diameter as original. The Carden joint end has a round flange so you could dial indicate that end but the diff end appears to be just the rough casting. Maybe use some dowel pins to get the alignment right.

FYI...despite common thought the original shaft is re-buildable; my local drive shaft shop did the carden on my Tacoma no problem, though Canada may be a bit far for you!

 

Might be possible to set a brass or steel freeze plug in that hole.

 

awesome! ill get a proper reading and source out some seal plugs! during mock up with the new prop shaft everything seamed nice and tight with the fitment on all the flanges/lips, ill double check to make sure there's no play! thanks for the advice, ill let you know what i find