JEBSR5

Coming home from work and just entering driveway, I heard a pop. Figured universal, so crawled under and couldn't find anything obvious at first. So, parked it, rested about an hour and crawled under with a good light and started looking at rear drive shaft first. A little leakage at rear universal, not bad so far. Checked front universial and saw what looked like a crack in one of the caps. Got the magnifying glass out and a pick and sure enough a crack. Removed drive shaft and proceded to remove front universal. Ran into two problems. No vise to pull the cap out, so tried to use channel locks and bingo, injured a tendon in left hand (old injury) again.

Can I leave the rear drive shaft out and use 4WD (actually front wheel drive without rear driveshaft) for a few weeks until I can finish driveshaft?

Appears I will have to shop around for a vise to get those pesky caps off or take it somewhere to get it finished, if I can't drive without it for an extended time.

Any advice, warnings, about this scenario?

Robrt32

A couple blocks of wood a old socket just a little smaller than the cap and a good hammer will change it without a vice. Ive done more without a vice than with one.. I am not good at writing the directions and a slow typer too.. I'm sure someone else knows how to do this and could do better than i can

GSGALLANT

And yes, it's no problem driving without your rear driveshaft for a while.

MudHippy

Rig will drive odd, but I did it for a spell when I snapped my driveshaft yoke. You need a dead-blow hammer and a socket slightly smaller than the cap of the u-joint. Put the socket under the cap and whack down on the opposing end, NOT the cap, but the driveshaft yoke, letting that force drive the u-joint up out of the yoke. I've even used a 3lb sledge, but don't recommend it. I found myself one arm short with the wood block method, though it works just the same.

signalmtnyota

my carrier bearing/horseshoe crossmember sheared off yesterday on the highway at 55mph. I proceded to pull over, yank the two piece rear shaft, and drive the 100 miles from Birmingham to Auburn Alabama on front wheels only. My truck actually drove better with fewer vibes with no rear driveline.

snap-on

I drove mine front wheel drive only for about 3 months when i was having rear driveshaft issues myself. Drives like a 89 honda civic with the torque stear but no issues to report.

JEBSR5

Well with a lot of help, got rear drive shaft back in.

New problem.

While driving front wheel drive only, had real bad vibration 28 MPH to 32 MPH and 38 to 42 MPH. Anywhere between pretty smooth. Got worse each day. Also tested by staying in first gear and accelerating and abruptly letting off yielding a clunk each time. I could also let off abrubtly and cause a clunk, then take off real easy and hear a pop. Otherwise in between not bad. Now I need to find someone ready to part with a set of Aisin lock hubs to replace my ADD hubs so I can stop the motion in front drive line until I can fix. Still operating with only one hand and will be awhile before I can tackle front drive train. Any ideas on what can cause a clunk, drive shaft, CV's?

Any Aisins for sale that I can just bolt on when I get them?

Checked on a SuperWinch for a pair new for $89, not familiar with those and how they mount. They say use their kit which shows same spindle nuts, washers as I have, unless they are a little smaller. Warn are limited life warranty for $168. They say use a kit also. Seems to be the forum choice to go with Aisin and just bolt on with existing cone washers and nuts.

I suppose I can take off my ADD's plastic wrap and tape exposed area until I can get something. Should work for awhile.

Any Aisins for sale in ready to bolt on shape? Tried Eby.

Drove a few miles with hubs off and no vibrations. Definately appears to be either a CV axle or front drive shaft. Not sure if cardan joint is serviceable, will do some more research. Have a set of manual hubs coming, so that will buy me some time.