asbug

Hi all,
I just got a '83 4wd with an apparent Later engine (22RE on valve cover) engine is till Carb'ed. I am going to have lots of wiring questions. I downloaded the '83 shop manual, thanks. I have not been able to locate where the oil pressure sending unit is on this engine. I found the one on the lower passenger's side block for the idiot light (I do not have an idiot light harness aparantly - all lights are missing), but I do have an oil pressure gauge and the wiring in the engine compartment.
I have been rewiring the blind drunk redneck wiring job to get back to more stock. Where would the sender location be on this later engine I tested the lower idiot light switch and it goes to no ground with engine running so I know I have oil pressure, but I would like to know how much.
Any help on where the oil pressure sender might be located or where I can put one? Also need a part # for my sending unit if (as I suspect) there isn't one on this engine.
I'll have other wiring issue related questions as I go, but I promise not to ask until I havve tried to find an answer on the shop manual or my FLAPS purchased manual...
Thanks for any help,
KC

83

As far as I know you can put it in any plug along an oil galley. So anywhere you see a hex head bolt screwed into the block. If there isn't another unit somewhere in the block, then you don't have one yet. Whether or not the gauge and wiring are in the cab.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

See the picture below. On the passenger side of the block, the idiot light is to the rear of the filter, oil pressure sending unit is directly below the filter. HOWEVER, this is a 1983 block. The 1984+ blocks may be different. I know that the deck height of the block is different, but I don't know about the rest. But then again, your previous owner could have put a later 22RE valve cover on it as well. There are a lot of idiots out there that think they know what they are doing... they end up screwing the people who try to fix their rigging.

asbug

Thanks so much for the quick replies.
That photo is a big help.
My idiot light one is just about as far away from the filter as your photo but in front of it (fan side).
I need to putt the #'s off the block and head and see exactly what engine is in it. It runs well, doesn't seem to smoke at all. Has a new Carb, Radiator, Fuel pump, etc. Lotsa bolt on stuff has been replaced already.
I'll get some photos posted up, and get those #'s off the engine.
I really have no idea what model it is, I do not see the normal tale tale signs of being lifted, longer shackles, or body lift spacers, but this thing is taller than I am (6'4"), running 33X12.5X15's.
Gonna have lots of questions...
Thanks for the warm welcome.
KC - In N.W. GA.

83

Yep, these trucks sit pretty high without a lift, and will fit 33's (barely) with no lift and probably no rubbing.

Like kawazx636 mentioned, the valve covers are pretty interchageable...so you could even have a 20R for all we know all 20R and 22R 22RE valve covers are interchangeable. But someone could have taken a 22RE and coverted back to carb.

It's amazing the detective work you sometimes have to do to find out what parts you need...I ran into some crazy rigged stuff on my 83.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

No problem, we're here to help. Just do your due diligence on your searches before you ask or you won't get any responses - or at least not any nice responses. We're definitely not like Pirate 4x4 though. They will put you in a state of depression if you ask the wrong questions.

If you need more pictures, I have plenty on my desmog, engine build and pickup build threads. You should be able to find a shot of whatever you need on any one of them.

asbug

Feel like a total idiot...
Looked up replacemtn bulbs and realized that the bulbs for the 4wd and such along the side of the cluster didn't have individual harnesses, just the bulb holders and the backing... I do not have any bulb holders in those sockets.
Any one know of a replacement part # for the bulb holders?
Thanks.
I do not remember seeing any damage to the holes, but I wasn't looking either....
KC

83

So you're looking for light sockets? Or what? Maybe a photo. I don't know what a bulb holder is but I know you're just trying to come up with a name for something because you don't know what it's called and have never had to name it before! It's happened to me.

asbug

I need the light socket bulb holders that lock into the back of the cluster... They make contact on the printed circuit board. Thanks, KC

asbug

Ok, swapped around lights and holders, bought some new bulbs. The oil light is working and goes off when engine is started. Ordered the gauge sender from flaps. Looks like my idiot light sender is in the wrong hole, it is under the oil filter. The other ole in my block is in the same place as in the photo above, but has a different type of sender in it. It has a green snap top on it and is from a different model truck. The block appears to be a true 22re if I understand the descriptions on the identification thread correctly. It has the shamrock shaped boss on the exhaust side. I guess it is possible to put a carb'ed set up on this block... The thing is running rich, based off my tail pipe finger swipe.

asbug

Here is a shot of the truck and a general shot of the engine...

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Assuming that valve cover is the original valve cover that came on any engine swap, your engine should be no later than a 1984. That style valve cover only fits on 1979-84 20R, 22R and 22RE heads. If the exhaust ports are round (not pear shaped) and in intake ports are square (not round) then it is a 1981-84 head. You really want it to be a 81-84 engine if you want to use that 83 shop manual.

Here's a link with some more specs that could help you identify your motor.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...TechNote49.htm

Honestly, my opinion would be that it is the stock motor and somebody either replaced the valve cover or put a 22RE sticker on it for some retarded reason. I would find it hard to believe that somebody took the time to turn it from EFI to Carb especially since it looks to have the stock vacuum and smog setup.

gmack192

I thought I had the only Blue Yota with flames.................


Good luck with it..... Half the fun of these trucks is trying to figure out what the P.O. was thinking....

Back on topic, I run a mechanical gauge on my truck.. I just put a new 85 up 22R in it and the only port I could get oil pressure from was the one directly below the filter..

asbug

The block has the laser block identification boss on the exhaust side (bottom picture on the link). Did all the blocks have this raised area, and only the newer ones get engraved? Thanks. KC

asbug

Got the correct sending unit for the oil pressure gauge yesterday and hope to get it in this weekend, going to relocate the idiot light one to the same position as Kawazx's photo above. (just for a reference, what ever block I have has the same 2 oil gallery screw in locations). I must have been tripping when I was thinking the idiot light one was in front of the oil filter, it is behind it.
The FLAPS told me that the oil for this was 20W50 (I run old VW's so I am familiar with this oil), does that sound right? gonna do a crankcase, trans, and differential fluid change this weekend as well. I have a clymer's manual and assume that the fluid weights are correct in it... need I fear?
Thanks,
KC

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

20W-50 is pretty heavy. Unless you are running around in 100* heat all the time or have some severe blow by issues, I would go with something lighter. 10W-30 in cooler months or 10W-40 in warmer months is what I typically use. On my motor that had a decent amount of blow by before I rebuilt it, I used Rotella 15W-40 diesel oil to help it seal up and smoke less - it worked amazingly well and rejuvenates the seals.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

PM sent on the "bulb holders".

asbug

Not an oil pressure item, but today I used the truck to pull a 1973 vw karmann ghia out from back of the house to steal some parts off f it for my69 ghia vert... Well I put it in 4 we low, locked the hubs and pulled it out with a chain. The truck was jerking and pulling funny so I floored it and pulled the ghia out and my paved driveway about 30 feet, then I got out to see what was going on... Well about 150' of torn up grass and 30' of black marks on the driveway let me know that I had forgotten to disengage the parking brakes on the ghia, lol. The truck did pull hard, and did a food job. I will need to investigate 4wd better, but it seemed to get it done. KC

asbug

Ok, took some time to change out oil in transfer case, trans, front and rear differential, I am having some clanking in front passengers hub when locked. I can put the transfer case into either 4wd setting, lock just the drivers side and no issues. When I lock the passengers side I get a clunky bad cv joint sound that is worse on turning.
I am a newb on the yotas and this type of straight axle 4wd. Does this sound like a hub issue or an internal joint issue.

No noise at all till I lock the pass hub. Has what looks like OEM hubs on it..
It feels almost like it is binding, has that not properly engaged lobe-ing feel.
Fluids were nasty in differentials some filings on plugs, no chunks. Looks like they had never been changed.
Trans and transfer case were full, and looked ok. I changed any way.

Just looking for advice. Drives great in 2wd, some noise in 1-3, 4 is quiet, and 5th is almost too much of a drop with the 33's except when really fast on non hilly terrain.
Just looking for a test to see if it needs to be opened up.
Thanks, KC