OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Are you running it hard right now with only 500-600 miles on it? It has always be tought to me, that when you are breaking in a motor, you should "drive it like you stole it" to help the rings seat. If you do run the motor hard and something breaks, then it wasn't done right in the first place.

With that being said, My OPINION would be to keep a close watch on the oil level, and drive that yota like you will never see it again. Fluctuate the rpms up and down, and run it up some step hills on the hwy to seat those rings. Now if you still smoking or losing oil after I dunno say 1000-1500 miles then I would start looking into things a little and be a little more concerned.

We are all hoping that your rings just need to be seated a little more!!!

YotaBoy83

I was taking it a little easy for a the first day or two to make sure. I leaks sprung and things like then I started driving it harder and harder. I don't drive it hard until its a little warmed up and don't take it much above 4000 on the rare occasion in first and maybe second.
Also should I down shift when going up hills that slow me down or just go for it say going up a decent hill going 45 in 4th say a little over 2000 rpms

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

During my break in, I ran high rps up hills, your goal is to flucuate the rpm so I wouldn't keep it at any rpm in particular, but Yes, down shift and take that baby up the hill. Don't be afraid to run it hard, just dont pin it at a high rpm and leave it there. The same goes for lower rpm, don't just cruise around town in 3rd at 2000k. Stay in 3rd but give it gas up to 38-4000 and then let it motor break it self down to 15-1800 and then back up and down. As you put more miles on it, you should start to feel more power, see less oil loss and take the rpm's a little higher. I have almost 9000k miles on my new motor and I still run the piss out of it.

IMO the only reason to baby these motors are because something is wrong and your trying to make it to payday, Or your motor has been neglected and needs to be replaced. If everything is running right, you can use all the ponies you can get out of these things. Think about all of the horror stories of people running out of oil, burying there trucks in water or mud, or even just pure neglect by someone, but they still run!

My point, don't be concerned to use your new motor, that's why you built it right?

Keep an eye on your oil level, give it a few miles and see what happens. I have been in your shoes brother, trying to not be concerned about the motor you built, but if it breaks at least you know you can fix it!

YotaBoy83

Alright thanks for the advice I'll run it hard and hope that helps.

BMcEL

Might be a little late now, but a good read nonetheless:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

nothingbetter

I'm suprised no one really chirped in on this with good info. There are 4 ways oil can get into your cylindrs to get burnt. past the rings, valve stem seals, head gasket and through the intake system. intake system is unlikely to cause you noticable amounts of smoke as its just going to be a "mist" of oil from the pcv system...if you have it hooked up (which you should.) Head gasket also seems unlikely as you just changed it (I hope) and you prepped the mating surfaces properly (i hope) so we'll rule that one out. That leaves rings and valves. Your compression test showed some varying results. But nothing so low its scary. Since your rings are still seating we'll ignore the different numbers and says its not rings. If you get a burst of smoke on startup after its cooled down (overnight) then its your valve stem seals. A bit of oil will drip past the seal overnight and build up on the piston/valve, when you fire it up, it gets burnt and then a puff blue is the first thing to come out of the exhaust. So thats my guess at what the problem is. No way to fix it besides get new seals. Sometimes you can figure out which cylinder its on by reading the plugs and exhaust ports in the head. But since your in there and have it all taken apart, I would do them all.

YotaBoy83

I'll let the motor run for a few hundred more miles and see what I find.
The head was fully rebuilt and yes all matting surfaces were prepped accordingly with a new gasket.
The head had an entire rebuild with new guides, seals, 3 angle valve job, milled and cleaned.
I just switched out the plugs after letting the engine cool down and the plugs looked great other than seeing I was running a little rich it so I retuned it and noticed my air filter was super dirty so cleaning it now.
Also there was no oil on any of the plugs.

YotaBoy83

Would a clogged air filter cause a rough idle and should I retune the carb after I clean it? It was really dirty

coyote jim

Toyotas don't blow or burn oil. If you have quality rings and good valve stem seals you just need o drive it to seat the rings. Don't need to be jentle, drive normally - 500 miles is not enough to seat the rings. You're probably fine, but do pay attention to the previous posts.

YotaBoy83

My truck also has an issue of a Rough idle, from the exhaust side it doesn't sound like its missing really but more of just kinda putting at random times it's really light not like a really noticeable miss. I have new plugs, wires, coil, cap, and rotor. What else could it be?

Bingle

If I remember correct, you put a mid range cam in right? That will give you a little lope at idle. If the engine isn't shaking much and comes off idle smooth with throttle, it should be fine. Mine has always caughed a little at idle, better tune gives less caugh and stumble, but it's always there.

Give the engine a little time, run the piss outa her and get those rings seated, and play with the timing and carb tuning till she's "right". I only get worried when I hear a NEW rattle/tap/ping/ect. The rest is just a 22r doing it's thing.

YotaBoy83

I do have an rv cam in it.
I'm running 10* of timing
Now when you hear the motor it is loud not sure if it's the valves or the timing chain but it's loud and annoying I'm thinking I need new adjuster nuts of the rockers or something.
As I have steel backed guides and double checked all the chain tensioner stuff and chain

Bingle

A little rocker arm clatter is normal. Should get a little better when the engine gets hot. Check clearances when hot and should be .008 intake and .012 exhaust. I brought mine down to 6 and 10 respectively and quieted down some but these aren't bran new high tech 4's that you can barely tell are running, these are bullet proof, old school, noisy engines.

Don't sweat the small stuff.

10° sounds fine. Clean air filter, check/retune carb, drive like posted above for another 500-1k mi and most stuff should work itself out.

YotaBoy83

Alright thanks I adjusted my valves tighter also. Same as yours.
I pulled off the cap on the dizzy and noticed where ever the rotor set spark to the contacts there was a groove worn down for some reason

4x4jeffyota

Did you get your smoke issue settled? Or is it still smoking?

YotaBoy83

It got a 20r head, new rings, pistons, rods re conditioned, honed, all bearings hot tanked and has 250 miles on it now.
It seemed like the head was leaking past the guides previously and the rings didn't seat right causing some very small non noticeable scaring