At over 200K, replaced the timing chain and rebuilt the top part of the engine.
Can't figure out where all the smog lines go back to re-install the rebuilt carb.
Need advice and help to get it going again.
Should I de-smog and go with the Weber? or keep the stock setup.
Installed power steering while it is down.

Also can't keep front axle seals from leaking for long. Should I go deeper or use different seals, ECO seals, of Trail Gear?
Any help and advice will be appreciated. Also have a spare tranny and transfer case. Dual transfer case and lockers may be in the future.



Front of Yota truck
Thanks for any advice and help you can give.


Dave

 

Yes, to the de-smog & Weber.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was trying to rebuild the carb and just get it going. It does look like with the De-smog and Weber, life will be simpler.
Where is it best to get the carb and smog delete kit?

What is the fix for the axle seals.


Thanks,


Dave.

 

Slap the aisin carb back on! Look at 13swords videos on youtube. Plug all your ports except the distributor line and vroom vroom. I have nothing against Webers, they are highly engineered and proven to work. But I personally have not been convinced they are better than a tuned aisin. A lot of times people will rather pay the price for a weber than tune a 40 yr old carb and I get that.
im cheap. If i can fix what i got, thats what im doing.

Im a grease monkey at best and I had to do timing and head gasket on my 20r so i could move. I slapped it together and drove it on the trailer. and now im thousands of miles away and the truck is sitting again while i get time to weld the frame up. So i know how it is.

The sooner you can start it and drive, the sooner you will remember why youre cursing and sweating over it in the first place: because its fun as #$%@ to drive these little monsters.

 

It sounds like youre pretty much done. Ive been told that these axles leak. Ill try to dig the thread up where we had that discussion.

Desmog but keep the smog stuff. some of it has a purpose and might still work.
my set up is just stock carb, lce water block off plates, and the only thing plugged in is the charcoal can.
im looking for the hi altitude adjuster but everything else is going into a cardboard box.
If your Carb is on get some silicone caps and find some mud or rocks!

Wait do you have smog laws where youre at?

 

And when you gave time, maybe do a quick writeup on the power steering?

 

Thanks for the replies.
No emission laws on this anymore. Just got the notice it does not need an inspection anymore.
Just gets a safety inspection for the last few years and now DMV says no more of those.
Hope the power steering works when I get it running again.
Got one from a donor truck, so everything fit.

Thanks,


Dave

 

Define "leaking". Wet and collecting dirt, or gear oil running down the inside of the tire? Wet and collecting dirt is just the way they are. I remember when I first bought my 83 and was an even worse mechanic than I am now, I paid a local, independent "Toyotas only" shop to do my front axle seals. Within a few months, they were wet. But I no longer had oil running down my tire. Definitely use Toyota or better seals. Don't ever compromise on cheaper aftermarket seals anywhere on your truck.

For the carb, it comes down to what level of frustration you want to deal with. I don't think you'll find many people who don't agree that the Aisin carb is substantially better quality than anything else. The issue is that they're 30-40 years old, meant to be fine-tuned machines, relying on all kinds of emissions, altitude adjustments, valves and such. If you find a source for new parts for any of those things, let us all know! The fine-tuned Aisin carb has a really hard time being fine-tuned with failed, clogged, aging parts that can't be replaced. So this puts you in one of two categories: de-smog the Aisin or put in an aftermarket carb. Opinions vary, but in my mind, a brand new carb is preferable to getting a 30+ year old carb to function correctly minus all things it was built to function with. But people do have great luck with it, so it's a completely legitimate approach, and a person could argue either way when it comes to Weber or de-smogged Aisin, and they'd be right either way. On my 83 I suffered through rebuilt carbs and was never happy. But again, I'm no great mechanic. On my 78, I put on a Weber and loved it.

 

Thanks for the replies.
This all makes sense. I rebuilt the Aisin, so I may try it on there. Then if it still won't run well, I have options.
Good to know the Weber is available. Makes sense that the new carb may solve re-occuring problems.

So I'm in the same boat with re-doing the axle seals every couple of months.

I can't wait to get this truck back running again and take a few trails.

Dave

 

Just in case, to clarify, if you're just seeing wetness, you don't need to do anything. It's only when you've got gear oil running down your tire that you need to replace the seals.

 

Thanks,

It seems like it's ;always the right front that has 90 wt running down the back of the tire.
The fix doesn't last long.

Wondering if ECO-Seals or the Trail Gear seals will last longer?

Found a crankshaft seal that was oversized and has lasted for years.
Thanks,

Dave

 

What brand seal are you currently using?

 

I think the seals were OEM from the Toyota dealership.

I'm wondering if a thicker seal would help seal in the 90 wt. oil.

Thanks,


Dave

 

I vote for the de-smog and Weber. Having done this on the '83 I owned, I can attest to the simplicity of the weber install and the de-smog process. Painless, simple, and the conversion worked flawlessly for the rest of the time I owned the truck. Plus, only ONE vacuum hose to the distributor, and probably 75 pounds of junk off the front end. I also recommend an LCE exhaust header too, as it really performed much better with the header and a new exhaust system.

I bought the Weber + install kit, de-smog kit, air cleaner, new PCV valve, air cleaner hoses and a Weber jet kit all from LCE. Average prices, but superb customer service. The Webers LCE sells are made in Spain, NOT somewhere in Asia.

Here's a link for LCE: https://www.lceperformance.com/

And here's a link to some photos of my conversion just before I sold the truck: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-build-309089/
(Right here on this forum).

 

With regard to the seals, maybe some clarification is needed...I'm probably not the person to provide it, but if you're replacing a seal with OEM repeatedly and it's not working, it seems possible the seal that should be holding the gear oil back is further in the axle than the one you are replacing. Gear oil shouldn't be in the knuckle at all I don't think. I'd provide a better description of the seal you're replacing and maybe someone can weigh in on whether that is the right one to correct the problem you are having.

 

I know I have done the seal thing at least 3 times without that many miles. It has been sitting due to life for 2 years now in my garage.
I see the adds for the ECO seals and they say they are better, same with the Trail Gear seals. Just wondering if I should try a different brand of seals.
Got the fluid leaking down the back of the wheel and tire on the right front.

Can't remember if I used any special seals, I think they were from the Toyota Dealership.

This time I'll take notes as to what when and how.

Thanks for the responses.

Dave

 

I feel like there must be another issue happening. If you're using high quality (OEM) seals and it immediately starts leaking, you're either seating it wrong or there's some damage to the surface you're seating it into, allowing it to leak. If there's no damage and you're seating an OEM seal correctly, gear oil won't be running out. OEM should be plenty good to keep it from leaking that quickly. Not to say there aren't better seals, but something else is going on here. I've never done this job so that's as much help as I can be.

 

Thanks for the replies.
I think maybe the surface the seal goes into may be scratched or damaged in some way. I will check it better when I do it again.
I don't think it leaks immediately, but surely it starts to weep sooner than I think it should.
I will take better notes and check stuff out better next time I do that job. When I replaced the crank seal on the engine,
I got an oversized seal and it has leaked again. I will check the axle for rough spots and the surfaces well.

Thinking the Marlin Crawler ECO Seals may give a longer life. Are there other things I should look out for?

Thanks,

Dave

 

I had similar results with the oem seals. When I rebuilt my front axle I used the oem seals and had one side dripping oil within a couple of months. I have had good results with both Marlins seals and the Trail Gear seals (have one of each on my front axle currently). The Marlin seal is over 10 years old. Trail Gear seal is over 5 years old. No drips.

Something else to consider is the shims on the top and bottom of the knuckles - I think those need to be right to position the axle shaft properly in the seal. If those shims aren't right it could cause the gear oil to leak past the axle seal.

 

That is good info. I want to try the Marlin Crawler seals. I did not change the shims on the knuckles. It seemed smooth to me, but I don't remember checking the up and down play. I should really use the pull scale and do it right. I think your right with the same problem I've been experiencing. Need to go back to the Asin hubs, one had a broken ring, so I put on replacements. I don't mind fixing this truck up, it has been super dependable, but now it needs some attention to get it reliable again. I think I will try the Marlin Crawler seals, get it running better, then tackle the new windshield. I know that will be a challenge fixing the rust around the windshield. I don't want it to be down so long next time.

Thanks for the great information:

Dave