My 81 pickup
#101
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As for the front springs I still have a little more work to do on them. I am gonna redrill the spring perches to put the axle back in the stock location. Then I have to mount the new steering box. After that I'm gonna see how it sets and add more leaves and possibly a longer shackle to make the front match the rear.
I still need to do shocks for both front and rear aswell.
I will definately keep this post updated and let you know how it all turns out when I'm done with this segment of the build.
#102
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Additionaly here is a tidbit of info that some might find useful.
Extending brake lines:
I used 3 stock rear brakelines purchased from autozone. 2 for the front, one for the rear. Simple to do, cost me like 15 per break hose, and no leaks.
Extending brake lines:
I used 3 stock rear brakelines purchased from autozone. 2 for the front, one for the rear. Simple to do, cost me like 15 per break hose, and no leaks.
#103
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Steering box and highsteer all mounted up. Chevys in the rear, rear springs up front. Front perches Drilled to put the axle back 1-3/4 inches.
Need to just "polish" everything up. Steering box plates need to be welded in. New shock towers in front and shocks all around. Get it aligned. Yada yada.
It's very close to hitting the trail again
#104
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JagerFiend,
Nice build and best of all, you've got the best truck Toyota has ever made, a 1981. First year for 5 speed, first year for the 2.4-liter engine; clearly this is indisputable
Things to ponder...
* How is your front tire-to-leaf spring clearance when your steering is at full lock? You'll probably need to pick up some 1" wheel spacers, at least.
* Double check how your drag link to oil pan clearance is. Generally, you need at least a 3" lift to fit a high steer on a Toyota.
* If you shim your front axle, remember this will also change your caster angle and will bring your tie rod closer to the top of your leaf spring (high steer setup).
* The trouble with double stacking brake lines is they are still all rubber and can easily be damaged from over extension or excessive rubbing against your shocks or worse, your tires. Make sure they do not bind when your suspension cycles! Your brake system is certainly something you must take very seriously.
* Longer shackles will certainly lift your truck (at a 1:1/2 ratio), but the longer they are, the more vertical they become, which results in a harder/stiffer ride as well as reduced down travel.
* I know you've already finished your front axle, but 80w140 is a bit on the viscous side. It will work okay, but it is not efficient. Next time you service your differentials, use 75w90 gear oil front and back, especially since you live in a cool climate (OR).
Looking forward to seeing more of this build! I like how you're keeping it on a budget and finding a lot of great deals! Also I can see you are of the ingenious type Keep it up!!
FIVE DOLLARS TO BALANCE A TRUCK TIRE? WHAT?!? WHERE IS THIS MAGICAL WAL-MART LOCATED!!!???!?!?! If this is standard practice at Wal-Mart, then WOW they are really going out of there way to get customers!
BigMike
Nice build and best of all, you've got the best truck Toyota has ever made, a 1981. First year for 5 speed, first year for the 2.4-liter engine; clearly this is indisputable
Things to ponder...
* How is your front tire-to-leaf spring clearance when your steering is at full lock? You'll probably need to pick up some 1" wheel spacers, at least.
* Double check how your drag link to oil pan clearance is. Generally, you need at least a 3" lift to fit a high steer on a Toyota.
* If you shim your front axle, remember this will also change your caster angle and will bring your tie rod closer to the top of your leaf spring (high steer setup).
* The trouble with double stacking brake lines is they are still all rubber and can easily be damaged from over extension or excessive rubbing against your shocks or worse, your tires. Make sure they do not bind when your suspension cycles! Your brake system is certainly something you must take very seriously.
* Longer shackles will certainly lift your truck (at a 1:1/2 ratio), but the longer they are, the more vertical they become, which results in a harder/stiffer ride as well as reduced down travel.
* I know you've already finished your front axle, but 80w140 is a bit on the viscous side. It will work okay, but it is not efficient. Next time you service your differentials, use 75w90 gear oil front and back, especially since you live in a cool climate (OR).
Looking forward to seeing more of this build! I like how you're keeping it on a budget and finding a lot of great deals! Also I can see you are of the ingenious type Keep it up!!
BigMike
Last edited by BigMike; 03-01-2011 at 04:40 PM.
#105
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JagerFiend,
Nice build and best of all, you've got the best truck Toyota has ever made, a 1981. First year for 5 speed, first year for the 2.4-liter engine; clearly this is indisputable
Things to ponder...
* How is your front tire-to-leaf spring clearance when your steering is at full lock? You'll probably need to pick up some 1" wheel spacers, at least.
* Double check how your drag link to oil pan clearance is. Generally, you need at least a 3" lift to fit a high steer on a Toyota.
* If you shim your front axle, remember this will also change your caster angle and will bring your tie rod closer to the top of your leaf spring (high steer setup).
* The trouble with double stacking brake lines is they are still all rubber and can easily be damaged from over extension or excessive rubbing against your shocks or worse, your tires. Make sure they do not bind when your suspension cycles! Your brake system is certainly something you must take very seriously.
* Longer shackles will certainly lift your truck (at a 1:1/2 ratio), but the longer they are, the more vertical they become, which results in a harder/stiffer ride as well as reduced down travel.
* I know you've already finished your front axle, but 80w140 is a bit on the viscous side. It will work okay, but it is not efficient. Next time you service your differentials, use 75w90 gear oil front and back, especially since you live in a cool climate (OR).
Looking forward to seeing more of this build! I like how you're keeping it on a budget and finding a lot of great deals! Also I can see you are of the ingenious type Keep it up!!
FIVE DOLLARS TO BALANCE A TRUCK TIRE? WHAT?!? WHERE IS THIS MAGICAL WAL-MART LOCATED!!!???!?!?! If this is standard practice at Wal-Mart, then WOW they are really going out of there way to get customers!
BigMike
Nice build and best of all, you've got the best truck Toyota has ever made, a 1981. First year for 5 speed, first year for the 2.4-liter engine; clearly this is indisputable
Things to ponder...
* How is your front tire-to-leaf spring clearance when your steering is at full lock? You'll probably need to pick up some 1" wheel spacers, at least.
* Double check how your drag link to oil pan clearance is. Generally, you need at least a 3" lift to fit a high steer on a Toyota.
* If you shim your front axle, remember this will also change your caster angle and will bring your tie rod closer to the top of your leaf spring (high steer setup).
* The trouble with double stacking brake lines is they are still all rubber and can easily be damaged from over extension or excessive rubbing against your shocks or worse, your tires. Make sure they do not bind when your suspension cycles! Your brake system is certainly something you must take very seriously.
* Longer shackles will certainly lift your truck (at a 1:1/2 ratio), but the longer they are, the more vertical they become, which results in a harder/stiffer ride as well as reduced down travel.
* I know you've already finished your front axle, but 80w140 is a bit on the viscous side. It will work okay, but it is not efficient. Next time you service your differentials, use 75w90 gear oil front and back, especially since you live in a cool climate (OR).
Looking forward to seeing more of this build! I like how you're keeping it on a budget and finding a lot of great deals! Also I can see you are of the ingenious type Keep it up!!
FIVE DOLLARS TO BALANCE A TRUCK TIRE? WHAT?!? WHERE IS THIS MAGICAL WAL-MART LOCATED!!!???!?!?! If this is standard practice at Wal-Mart, then WOW they are really going out of there way to get customers!
BigMike
I have looked over all those items you detailed for me, and will definately have to tinker with a few of those things.
-The front wheels do rub at full lock on the leaf springs. however my turning radius is barely effected by this and getting around is not difficult at all.
-I have plenty of clearance for the tie rod and drag link. But when i installed the stearing stabilizer i kinda forget about oil pan clearance... so that might have to be moved.
-I dont believe there will be any need for me to shim the front axle. I made a square driveline and it reaches just fine.
-The brake lines are definately long enough. I ended up zip tieing them to the frame in a couple spots to keep them from being too long and getting in the way of moving components. so far no leaks or problems there, but i will definately keep an eye on them.
-My shackles are currently resting on the frame lol. im not completely sure on this, but wont longer shackles remedy this? boomerang shackles?
-I still need to change the fluid out again because of the break in procedure for the new gears. so when i do that i will take your advice on the lighter oil.
Thanks again for taking an interest in my build and taking the time to write me with foreseeable issues. I greatly appreciate yours and everyone else help on here.
here is a few shots of how she it sitting currently.
I still need to measure for and buy shocks and get it aligned, as well as a few tweaks here and there. but i am very happy with how its coming along.
#106
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Havent been on here in a long while. here is some updates.
Decided to build a front drop hanger. This is the finished product. 2.5" drop. Its a little dirty cause i hosed it off in the grass to cool it down lol
Putting the drop hanger on...
Tires back on. Sat almost perfectly level at this point. note that the truck is on a hill.
Then i proceeded to take off a bit of the fenders and move the axle back into the center hole on my spring perch to put the axle forward the two inches the rears give you.
(no pic)
When i tried to put the new tires/rims on the rims were binding on the brake caliper. so i set them aside and ordered some wheel spacers. Today my wheel spacers and shock boots came in
Bolted em in and threw the new tires on
Thats it for now. Gonna work on fixing the oil leak ive developed on the front pulley seal on my next day off. Then maybe some trails? I think so
Decided to build a front drop hanger. This is the finished product. 2.5" drop. Its a little dirty cause i hosed it off in the grass to cool it down lol
Putting the drop hanger on...
Tires back on. Sat almost perfectly level at this point. note that the truck is on a hill.
Then i proceeded to take off a bit of the fenders and move the axle back into the center hole on my spring perch to put the axle forward the two inches the rears give you.
(no pic)
When i tried to put the new tires/rims on the rims were binding on the brake caliper. so i set them aside and ordered some wheel spacers. Today my wheel spacers and shock boots came in
Bolted em in and threw the new tires on
Thats it for now. Gonna work on fixing the oil leak ive developed on the front pulley seal on my next day off. Then maybe some trails? I think so
Last edited by JagerFiend; 06-03-2011 at 06:21 PM.
#109
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No rub at full lock at regular ride height. I'm probly gonna run longer shackles all around to get a little more lift and then start on a little bit more fender clearencing.
Now that the weather is getting nice I'm hoping to get alot more done. Especially in the way of appearance/paint.
Think I'm gonna paint the canopy blue or black and put that back on in the next few days. Opinions on color?
Also what would you suggest buying first, a winch or a locker? I'm kinda leaning towards winch because it seems the more trail worthy it gets the worse places you get stuck ha.
#111
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Nice truck. I love the older 80s Hiluxes. So rare nowadays though, yours appears to be amazingly rust free. Even the ones i occasionaly see around my area are rusted out. Is that a ranger is behind it? You should have a 2wd 81 as you DD
#112
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Thanks man. And yes except for some minor surface rust in the bed and a few places it's entirely rust free
And you are correct about that being a ranger. Lol that was my first truck. Now it's my brothers and I steal it on occasion when my rig is in pieces haha.
Quick question for everybody.
I am running 6in eye to eye shackles in the front. They are just straight as in they don't curve like the stock ones. I put a ~3in spacer on the inside shackle plate at the bottom so they both plates are perpendicular to eachother. Does this setup sound correct? It has worked fine until my last wheeling trip to browns camp. When I got home the nuts had worked themselves loose quite a bit. I tightened them back down but now the plates don't sit like they used to.
And you are correct about that being a ranger. Lol that was my first truck. Now it's my brothers and I steal it on occasion when my rig is in pieces haha.
Quick question for everybody.
I am running 6in eye to eye shackles in the front. They are just straight as in they don't curve like the stock ones. I put a ~3in spacer on the inside shackle plate at the bottom so they both plates are perpendicular to eachother. Does this setup sound correct? It has worked fine until my last wheeling trip to browns camp. When I got home the nuts had worked themselves loose quite a bit. I tightened them back down but now the plates don't sit like they used to.
#114
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For your front shackle issue.....
The difference in width between the eye of your springs and the frame side shackle tube is 1.5".
Since they are centered on each other, you are left with a difference of 3/4" on each side of the spring eye. My solution for making up this gap was to weld two 3/8" pieces of flat bar the same width as the shackle plates to the inside face of the shackle plates.
3/8+3/8=6/8=3/4"
I've still got the ones i made laying around here somewhere, I will try and get a picture posted Manana.
The difference in width between the eye of your springs and the frame side shackle tube is 1.5".
Since they are centered on each other, you are left with a difference of 3/4" on each side of the spring eye. My solution for making up this gap was to weld two 3/8" pieces of flat bar the same width as the shackle plates to the inside face of the shackle plates.
3/8+3/8=6/8=3/4"
I've still got the ones i made laying around here somewhere, I will try and get a picture posted Manana.
#115
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Its been a while. And honestly i cant even remember my last post on here. Definately have taken my learning to more of a hands on approach with the help of the local "toyota network" in my area.
Over the last couple of months a few of the bigger projects we have been working on include: Cab swap on 1985 truck, Adding Hyrdro assist and power steering to my vehicle, beefing up the leef pack on my rig, and tinkering with my a couple of my buddies new 4runners.
and a couple pictures
Really wish i had taken more of the cab swap especially. but through these projects i really wish i had taken enough pictures to do write ups on completely rebuilding a steering box and swapping cabs on second generation toyota trucks as there is not a whole lot of info on these topics.
My truck on the 38's with springs beefed up in front and hydro assist
new cab on without bed
Old cab torn down and bed off
Ill try and get more current pics of the 85 as we have it a bit more finished at this point. Hoping to have it done within the week if my work schedule allows
Over the last couple of months a few of the bigger projects we have been working on include: Cab swap on 1985 truck, Adding Hyrdro assist and power steering to my vehicle, beefing up the leef pack on my rig, and tinkering with my a couple of my buddies new 4runners.
and a couple pictures
Really wish i had taken more of the cab swap especially. but through these projects i really wish i had taken enough pictures to do write ups on completely rebuilding a steering box and swapping cabs on second generation toyota trucks as there is not a whole lot of info on these topics.
My truck on the 38's with springs beefed up in front and hydro assist
new cab on without bed
Old cab torn down and bed off
Ill try and get more current pics of the 85 as we have it a bit more finished at this point. Hoping to have it done within the week if my work schedule allows
Last edited by JagerFiend; 08-30-2011 at 04:06 PM.
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