me and my friend picked up and 83 pickup a few months ago, due to insufficient funds we had to put the project on hold for a few months but well be opening up my shop and begin some work to get it ready for the spring. it needs its fair share of work but we grabbed it for 1000 bucks and its rust free which is rare here in new jersey(trucks from arizona). Im new to toyotas so im going to need any help possible. from my guess it has about a 6 inch suspension and 2 inch body lift on 36x14.5x15 groundhawgs, stock drivetrain, chop top and camo. so heres what it needs.

-fix the charging issue,has new battery & alternator but still not getting 14v(resistance somewhere?)
-fix rear axle seals
-roll cage and soft top
-tube bumpers
-exhaust, might do stacks not sure yet though
-fix leaking oil pan
-paint, we hate the camo
-fix four low, wont get out of first gear in 4 low
-fix the funny clutch
thats all i can think of for now, sure well come across more as we get into it ill get pictures up as soon as i figure out how to downsize them to fit. well be getting into my shop this weekend and begin work, ill post pics and updates as we go. like i said before im new to toyotas ive always been a ford guy, i know my fair share but i still have a lot of learning to do so please share any comments, questions, concerns, or help. thanks

 

run a 1-wire gm and save yourself all the wiring headache of a toyota alt.

 

do you mean just run a positive wire and a ground from the alternator to the battery. that was my idea a few months ago but i was told it wasnt a bright idea.

 

ya, trail-gear makes a bracket for it, then just go to napa and ask for a gm 1-wire alternator, you run a positive straight to the battery and then ground it out somewhere, i ground it out right where your grill attaches to

 

it probably doesnt come out of first in 4lo because of your "funny clutch"

 

6" suspension plus a body lift, that thing is high...ditch the BL and pull a couple of springs...you will still be able to clear 36's

edit: since you have to work on the rear axle, consider swapping it out to an 86-95 IFS rear axle. It gains you bigger rear brakes and 3" increase in width (1.5" per side) = great stability. Not sure what size gears you are running, but you can swap your current third member out into a new axle...

 

i believe im running 4.10's, thats what the previous owner told me but i havent pulled the diff cover yet to check for sure, i would like to go lower but thats in the future. and i cant make this thing any wider even though there stock width axles the wide tires and crazy offset have already got us stopped twice for width. some fender flares will help that although as it looks wider than it really is. and yes thing is tall it could easily clear 39's, we are going to remove some leafs and grab some new shocks too as it rides way too rough(glad it doesnt have a roof). and i'm hoping that the clutch will fix the four low issue. thanks for the help.

 

im going to go grab the alternator today and im gunna try to fab my own bracket first im a decent fabricator and have tons of sheet metal(trying to save any cash possible). my only question though is what is up with this emissions control comp. i traced the alternator through it will that throw anything off or can i just yank this thing out. it is never going to pass emissions anyway.

 

here it is first day we got it and probably should not have taken it out. hit that mud hole a few times and only made it through once. ill have more pics when i get it home today or tomorrow.

 

You don't use that thing, it's the regulator if im thinking the same thing, you just bypass it

 

i'm sure by passing the alternator through it wont affect anything, but if its an emission control computer which is what i'm understanding it is couldn't it be restricting some engine power because this thing spits some nasty fumes. and i'm not talking about the voltage regulator mounted inside the drivers side fender, i'm referring to the box under the dash on the drivers side, the wring in this thing is pretty messy i need to take a day and trace all the wires and make my own wiring diagram because none of this wiring is similar to that it the Haynes manual.