Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

L50 input bearing

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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #21  
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Yeah, I couldn't get any of the bearings in my t-case off the shafts with any of the "shade tree mechanic" methods, and ruined a bearing puller. A press is what you really need, but it's tough when it's still all in the transmission housing.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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I do have a press, how much of a pain is it to take that whole assembly out so I can press it off?
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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Someone else will have to answer...I've never had my transmission opened up.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:36 AM
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SC toy, can you measure your input bearing for us with a pair of good old Harbor freight digital calipers? I am interested in the inside and outside diameter of that ball bearing. Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails L50 input bearing-bearing_measure_guide.jpg  
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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Sorry i don't have a caliper, its at the shop. If you google
B32-14 it should give you the specs. This for the L52. L50 is smaller and the bearing id stamp is listed on marlin's website.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 12:33 PM
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Got it out, took more weld then i expected. Used a 302 stainless rod, tore the metal out of the bearing twice, but then i added a good chuck of weld and out it came. Thankfully castiron is a poor conductor of heat as well as the bearing being isolated by the balls. The shaft didn't even get warm. Really no way to talk about it without sounding dirty haha
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Ha!

Nice work.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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I finally figured out which trans I have, popped off the input bearing cover and its the NSK 032-2 bearing. It's an L50.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:32 PM
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Well its a pain to get that bearing out, seems like you pretty much have to customize your tooling to grab that snap ring lip. I bent a 2 jaw puller, 3 jaw just can't get a good grip on it because of the orientation of all the cast iron surfaces and counter shaft bearing below it. If you know a TIG welder, that's how I did it, but I killed my gear puller in the process. Otherwise you get to pull the internals apart, which didn't look appealing to me. Hope yours comes out easier than mine.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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So my next hurdle is going to be getting the tranny back into the truck.

I've been thinking about doing it in 2 pieces. I don't have very good lifting options at my house. Is there a reason to not mate it back up to the T-case after installing the bell housing.

Is access to the top bolts going to be a killer on that? Just wondering if anyone has tried that or is there a reason not to do it.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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If you're doing the installation yourself, yeah, do the tranny and t-case in two pieces, unless you're much more gorilla-like than I am.

Personally, I can't really even safely do the just the transmission by myself.

When I rebuilt my t-case, even just taking it out & back in by myself was sketchy.

Best to get a friend. You've got to get it up, get the shaft in the pilot bearing (which means lining up the splines...sometimes you get it right away, sometimes you've got to stab a few times, turning the shaft a little), then get a couple bolts in far enough that it's secure and you can really start working on getting them all in.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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yea, i did a system with ropes to lower the whole thing in one piece, controlled it with friction. but no way I can raise it like that.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SCToy
Well its a pain to get that bearing out, seems like you pretty much have to customize your tooling to grab that snap ring lip. I bent a 2 jaw puller, 3 jaw just can't get a good grip on it because of the orientation of all the cast iron surfaces and counter shaft bearing below it. If you know a TIG welder, that's how I did it, but I killed my gear puller in the process. Otherwise you get to pull the internals apart, which didn't look appealing to me. Hope yours comes out easier than mine.
what about a small bearing splitter in the ring groove, then use two puller legs and a regular style T puller? will see, I am about ready to tear my down for rebuild as soon as I can get $$$ for the kit!
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 05:42 PM
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There is very little room above the bearing and the bearing below it also doesn't leave much room, but whatever works for ya.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:31 PM
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So I'm wondering if this little bit of movement is normal, when I turn the transmission by hand it sounds much better than it used to. Is this normal?
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:26 AM
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Does anyone know the torque specs for the top plate, the adapter from the back of the transmission to the T-case, the ones that thread into the cast iron transmission housing.
My haynes manual only lists the specs for bell housing to the back of the motor.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:48 AM
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You should download that 83 FSM that was posted a few months ago...

I think I've just always gone "tight enough", but if you want the torque specs, the FSM will probably have them.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #38  
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Oh there is an 83 manual posted up? Nice.
Normally i just reference the later model manual since most everything is the same, but the aluminum w56 won't be in this case. Thanks for the tip.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #39  
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Got it running today, transmission sounds great, no more bearing whine at all. Smooth shifts, clutch is nice too.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 05:07 AM
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Got my trans and tcase overhaul kits on there way! Cant wait to get mine going.
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