L50 input bearing
#21
Yeah, I couldn't get any of the bearings in my t-case off the shafts with any of the "shade tree mechanic" methods, and ruined a bearing puller. A press is what you really need, but it's tough when it's still all in the transmission housing.
#25
Sorry i don't have a caliper, its at the shop. If you google
B32-14 it should give you the specs. This for the L52. L50 is smaller and the bearing id stamp is listed on marlin's website.
B32-14 it should give you the specs. This for the L52. L50 is smaller and the bearing id stamp is listed on marlin's website.
#26
Got it out, took more weld then i expected. Used a 302 stainless rod, tore the metal out of the bearing twice, but then i added a good chuck of weld and out it came. Thankfully castiron is a poor conductor of heat as well as the bearing being isolated by the balls. The shaft didn't even get warm. Really no way to talk about it without sounding dirty haha


#29
Well its a pain to get that bearing out, seems like you pretty much have to customize your tooling to grab that snap ring lip. I bent a 2 jaw puller, 3 jaw just can't get a good grip on it because of the orientation of all the cast iron surfaces and counter shaft bearing below it. If you know a TIG welder, that's how I did it, but I killed my gear puller in the process. Otherwise you get to pull the internals apart, which didn't look appealing to me. Hope yours comes out easier than mine.
#30
So my next hurdle is going to be getting the tranny back into the truck.
I've been thinking about doing it in 2 pieces. I don't have very good lifting options at my house. Is there a reason to not mate it back up to the T-case after installing the bell housing.
Is access to the top bolts going to be a killer on that? Just wondering if anyone has tried that or is there a reason not to do it.
I've been thinking about doing it in 2 pieces. I don't have very good lifting options at my house. Is there a reason to not mate it back up to the T-case after installing the bell housing.
Is access to the top bolts going to be a killer on that? Just wondering if anyone has tried that or is there a reason not to do it.
#31
If you're doing the installation yourself, yeah, do the tranny and t-case in two pieces, unless you're much more gorilla-like than I am.
Personally, I can't really even safely do the just the transmission by myself.
When I rebuilt my t-case, even just taking it out & back in by myself was sketchy.
Best to get a friend. You've got to get it up, get the shaft in the pilot bearing (which means lining up the splines...sometimes you get it right away, sometimes you've got to stab a few times, turning the shaft a little), then get a couple bolts in far enough that it's secure and you can really start working on getting them all in.
Personally, I can't really even safely do the just the transmission by myself.
When I rebuilt my t-case, even just taking it out & back in by myself was sketchy.
Best to get a friend. You've got to get it up, get the shaft in the pilot bearing (which means lining up the splines...sometimes you get it right away, sometimes you've got to stab a few times, turning the shaft a little), then get a couple bolts in far enough that it's secure and you can really start working on getting them all in.
#33
Well its a pain to get that bearing out, seems like you pretty much have to customize your tooling to grab that snap ring lip. I bent a 2 jaw puller, 3 jaw just can't get a good grip on it because of the orientation of all the cast iron surfaces and counter shaft bearing below it. If you know a TIG welder, that's how I did it, but I killed my gear puller in the process. Otherwise you get to pull the internals apart, which didn't look appealing to me. Hope yours comes out easier than mine.
#36
Does anyone know the torque specs for the top plate, the adapter from the back of the transmission to the T-case, the ones that thread into the cast iron transmission housing.
My haynes manual only lists the specs for bell housing to the back of the motor.
My haynes manual only lists the specs for bell housing to the back of the motor.
#38
Oh there is an 83 manual posted up? Nice.
Normally i just reference the later model manual since most everything is the same, but the aluminum w56 won't be in this case. Thanks for the tip.
Normally i just reference the later model manual since most everything is the same, but the aluminum w56 won't be in this case. Thanks for the tip.



