Okay so here's whats going on I went to the junkyard today and got myself a 22r out of a 80-82 2wd pickup. The odometer said 11,000 miles but my guess is its rolled over once or twice. I got it home and ripped the oil pan off. I checked all the rod bearings and some main bearings. All of them still looked great and were not showing any copper it looks like it just wore off the light greyish coating. Its a double row timing set and what i was thinking of doing was just putting new rings in, all new gaskets and seals, new engnbldr cam and getting the head checked and new valve seals and replacing any valves if needed and shaving the head if needed. Does this sound good or should I do something a little more in depth? I am on a 17 year olds budget so please keep that in mind. Any and all advice would be great!!

 

The real questions is, how much did you pay?

 

For the motor? I paid $110 with tax and it came with the flywheel.

 

I just neede to know what to do before I completely tear it down so i have a plan.

 

sounds good man!! id say just rebuild/ replace all gaskets, bearings, and rings, etc. if that doesnt work then of course youll have to pull the motor and rebuild but id say go for it.

 

UHH, 17 year-old budget....do you mean 17 year-old attention span? LOL

Front/rear seal, possible chain tensioner and valve seals. You already checked the bottom, maybe the top is fine as well, check comp before you tear anything down.
Spend your time/patience on the carb. Spend your money on gas picking up chicks. J/K

 

They love 4 or 5 on the floor speed shifters

I would check everything on the bottom end to make sure they are in spec, first. If you rebuild the head, it could make a sloppy bottom end go out faster, burn oil, loose compression, from the newer/higher pressures generated.

Sounds like your plan works to me, along with the above comments, so

 

Yes I plan on replacing all the bearings and seals. new rings and possibly hone it. Then just get the head checked out and new seals put in to have a solid motor that I can use and will be faster then the one I have in it now. Oh and its getting the cam. I have a tri-y header and weber 32/36 carb going on as well and taking the timing set from my other motor and putting it on this one because it only has a few thousand miles on it. and probably re use my oil pump from the motor i'm running now since its good. The thing i'm stopped by now is the crank bolt.

 

110 is a good price!! lucky find.. id go with a full rebuild kit you can get one for around 250-300 and put a better cam in it engnbldr 268 for gas mileage and upper end torque(most commonly used upgraded cam in 22r) salvage good parts you are currently using, and there you have it id say expect to put down around another $400-500 good luck on the build

 

heres a link to a great deal on rebuld kit with that specific cam for right under 300
http://engnbldr.com/Toyota-Hotlicks.htm

 

woops $359 for an 83

 

i would throw it back together and do a compression test, if all is good slap new bearings on the bottom and replace oil seals.. run it for as long as you can to save up for full rebuild..

 

Yeah i expected to put down about that much. I just got inside from tearing this motor apart and what i found was amazing. The block still had honing marks on it from when it was made. The bearings were not even close to copper and the timing set was still in amazing condition barely any marks on the guides and it had steel backed guides. The oil pump is still in new condition too. I have reason believe that this motor only has 111,000 miles on it. Oh and the crank still has an almost mirror finish and doesn't need to be touched.

 

Yeah I planned on getting all my parts from them from what i've heard they're amazing

 

Yeah i thought of doing that but all sounded good until I was turning it by hand and I felt air come out of the intake side on cylinder 1 so the whole head is being checked out and new valve seals installed and replace valves if needed also shaved if needed

 

did you check if the valves where adjusted correctly. again, make sure its in spec. then check compression.

 

its already torn apart and yeah valves were in spec or close to. Its getting checked out while being cleaned any ways. if i'm gonna do it i'm gonna do it right.

 

sweet man, good luck.

 

Yeah I even check the bore side with a dial caliper and it was 3.621" and stock bore is 3.62" so I think I got one of the best junkyard 22r's I could

 

if u have not got that bolt off u can put a couple bolts in the back of the crank and a bar to hold tight then breaker bar on the front and see if it comes loose then,