Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Intro post, 82 pickup carb questions :)

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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 11:41 AM
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Intro post, 82 pickup carb questions :)

Hey guys, been lurking for a while and I just bought this last week.

82 pickup 22r

Intro post, 82 pickup carb questions :)-dj3hogtl.jpg

Intro post, 82 pickup carb questions :)-uyytfcul.jpg

Intro post, 82 pickup carb questions :)-rq2nbt3l.jpg

This is my first toyota and my first carbureted vehicle.

Fixed a couple things so far already:

The blower fan,
water leak,
and I installed a stabilizer shock that came with the truck for my "death wobble"

I do however have one problem, the choke is not hooked up according to the seller and I have to let it warm up for a bit every morning which is not that big of an issue for me.
EXCEPT even after about 10 minutes of warming up at work, and about 10 minutes of driving, there are 2 steep hills before I get to my house.

Just as I get to the top of the first hill, the engine starts to cut out in 3rd gear, rpm drops and I have zero throttle control until I push the clutch in and gear down, and then in 2nd gear after about 2500 rpm it will bog out again, sometimes bad enough where I have to stop, and then crawl up in first when the traffic dies.

Now at first I thought this was due to my lack of choke, as last night I let it cool down then fired it up and took off down my street, and as soon as I got into 3rd even on a flat surface it cut out, like it wasn't getting enough fuel.

Now, my question is do you guys thing I have an issue with carb adjustment, (carb is still new and was supposedly adjusted by someone with carb knowledge) a timing issue, or maybe a weak spark under load.

AFAIK before I bought this truck it has had,

A frame swap onto a refurbished frame,
New fuel tank, pump, and lines front to back,
new brake linings and lines front to back,
new carb,
new rad.

This is all I can think of at the moment!

Appreciate all comments negative or positive, most of this stuff is still new to me
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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What kind of carb?? Pictures help in case you have something missing or hooked up wrong. When a vehicle has lived for 30 years with several different owners, you never know what kinds of stupid things they did to it.
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 04:47 PM
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Ok, I am fairly certain it is an aisan carb, I had the previous owners receipt but cannot find it at the moment. I tinkered with it a little today, I found one adjusting screw on the passengers side close to the throttle I assume is the idle mixture, I brought my idle up a bit from 600 to 800 after letting it run for 15 minutes or so.

I read in another thread on here that you can check if your choke is hooked up by watching the right side flapper on top of the carb after hitting the throttle a couple of times. I hit the throttle once and the flapper closed which I assume is cutting off the airflow so my choke must be hooked up right?

I also noticed, didnt have my phone with me so no pics until tomorrow, that there is no EGR valve on the right side of the head. I also have a 22re I am rebuilding and I do not know if the EGR is in the same spot on the 22r, but from what I can see the the exhaust goes to the headers and out the tail pipe.

I will definetly take some pictures tomorrow.
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 05:08 PM
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Definitely take some pictures and you'll get farther here. If it is an Aisin carb and you aren't a carb guy then I wouldn't go tinking with it. I'm pretty good all around with anything engine related and my old Aisin carb had me completely stumped. There are all kinds of idle mixture, throttle position, choke mixture and choke position adjustments that I never could get right so i went with a Weber - super easy to adjust!

Also when talking about locations under the hood, try to avoid using "left" and "right" since they are subjective to each person's perspective. Use things like passenger side, driver side, intake side, exhaust side, etc. You said that "there is no EGR valve on the right side of the head." Do you mean the actual valvr between the head and the intake manifold or the piping that comes of off the exhaust manifold?
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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Sorry just used to saying left and right at work. On the passengers side of the engine closer to the firewall there is an empty space and no egr piping, I just went outside and felt around and there was a gasket hanging off one of the studs I'm assuming mounts the egr
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 04:10 AM
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No worries, just wanted to make sure you were being clear so you can get the answers you were looking for. Is there a block off plate on the head where the EGR was? If not, that's a big problem
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 08:06 AM
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Ok just went out and took some pictures,

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I also found this link http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/#angles which actually has a lot of good info so far. As far as i can tell there should be a plate over where the egr was, correct? and the assembly at the bottom of the carb with just a vacuum hose connecting the two ports is part of the accelerator circuit.

Last edited by Jebby; Jan 21, 2013 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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What a mess! There definitely needs to be a plate over that massive hole you have in your head where the EGR used to go.

Are you going the desmogged route or do you need to pass emissions in your state? This appears to be a poor attempt at desmogging that you inheritted.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 10:11 AM
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From BC canada and there is no emissions testing or air care here, from some googling about EGR deletion, I found this site

http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Bl...-p/1016009.htm

I have NEVER ordered any parts or accessories online for my vehicles, this appears to be what I am looking for to solve that issue.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 10:23 AM
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That's a start, but there are several more. When I get home tonight I'll sent you the links of everything you need. If you don't have emissions then I would can that carb and get a weber.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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I agree with kawa, he has a good write up on de-smoging a first gen on here. Do a complete de-smog and slap a weber 32/36 on your truck. Way cleaner and easier to tune/work on. Gets rid of that rat nest of vac lines and wires, it's all just power robbing crap at this point if you don't need it to pass inspection.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 05:18 PM
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Well I appreciate all help

This is however got to be somewhat of a cheap project, don't have alot of extra coin at the moment, I really only wanna use this thing to wheel on the weekends not as a daily driver, but if it cant climb up hills without stalling that is an issue i want to fix
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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You'd be looking at about $400 to desmog the right way with a weber and the appropriate block off plates. Plus you eliminate headaches and frustration. It would be money well spent and you'll be glad you did it
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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well I will definetly consider it, considering I didnt pay much for the truck compared to what the previous owner recently spent on it. Payday isnt till the end of the month so is there anything I can start with before hand? I am going to tidy up the wires, I am going to borrow a timing light and a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge tomorrow from work. Also going to read more on desmogging.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 06:34 PM
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I wonder if it is a simple fuel delivery issue...I mean, you mention going up the hill, and it craps out when you are pushing it. Fuel pump? Float bowl adjustment. Could be that simple. Cheaper if it gets it going until you have dough for upgrades. Fuel pump is actually cheap (like under $30). Float bowl adjustment is free if it just needs adjustment on the float. Fuel filter is back by the tank under the wheel well. There is a chance it is that thing too.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 83pingpong
I wonder if it is a simple fuel delivery issue...I mean, you mention going up the hill, and it craps out when you are pushing it. Fuel pump? Float bowl adjustment. Could be that simple. Cheaper if it gets it going until you have dough for upgrades. Fuel pump is actually cheap (like under $30). Float bowl adjustment is free if it just needs adjustment on the float. Fuel filter is back by the tank under the wheel well. There is a chance it is that thing too.

Mechanical pump on the engine right?

PO put in a new fuel tank, re lined the whole truck and put in 2 aftermarket "extra" filters up near the firewall just because he was paranoid about running bad fuel through his new carb I guess.

Both of those filters are fairly new and seem clean, I will take them off tomorrow and blow through them make sure they are not restricted.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:25 AM
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Right in front of the carburetor
I had a bad pump, and thought it was an electrical problem for a month or more!
post 27 in this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/51912340-post27.html



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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:01 AM
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I was wondering about fuel delivery, but I read the stuff up top. I would check the sight glass on the side of the carb and make sure it's in the middle. Also, you said that it seemed that the choke was closing, right? Leave the air cleaner off, when the engine is cold, start it up. Get out and check the carb. The butterfly on top should be closed (or mostly). Let it idle/drive it around and get it up to opperating temp then get out and check the butterfly again. It should be completely open now. If it's not opening like it should it would be choking you out and giving you trouble doing things like climbing hills.
You need to block off that egr system and make sure you don't have any vac leaks. Here's a link to the factory service manual for our trucks (not the right year but it's close enough). I should tell you everything you need to know about adjusting the asin carb and timing, ect.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...wnload-261385/

Good luck!
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:15 AM
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Just to make sure, if you are accelerating on level ground everything is ok, it only happens at an incline right? And it bogs down only above 2500rpms but not below?

Usually when people have hesistation going up hills isn't it because of of vent tube or float problems?
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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Okay guys, wasnt able to borrow any tools from work today so I will hopefully get vacuum and fuel pressure gauges tomorrow.

I just spent about an hour outside just letting it run and pulling off vac hoses and observing how it ran afterwards. I also watched the choke fully close when I started it and open up as it got warmer, although it seemed to open pretty quickly. One thing I dont understand is why the engine wont run after a cold startup even though the choke almost fully closes.


I also checked to make sure that the vacuum lines that are still connected weren't leaking and they all seem okay, checked the fuel filters to make sure they weren't restricted, I also put my hand over the whole where the EGR valve was and couldn't feel any airflow/vac leaks which is what one of the guys I work with said to check, I ordered the plate to cover it up this morning so hopefully it will get here within a few days.

After an hour of running I took it around the block and got a good run at the steep hill by my house, about half way up it bogged out in 3rd gear at around 2000 rpm, then when i made the corner it even bogged out in first going down hill, and stalled out after I put the clutch in. After letting it sit and idle after restarting it it drove fine on flat surface but as soon as I went up the hill in 2nd it quit on me again, and had to limp up in first pushing the clutch in to keep the engine running.


Sorry for the rant, gonna do a little more reading

Last edited by Jebby; Jan 22, 2013 at 06:53 PM.
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