magentawave

I have an 82 22R that requires starter fluid to get it started. Once started I can take my foot off the accelerator within 20 seconds and she won't stall. Once warmed up I can shut it off and go away for an hour or two and come back and it will start immediately with NO starter fluid. Also, it runs like a champ once running with no stalling or hesitation while driving or idling. The vehicle has only 60,000 original miles and is a Toyota motorhome that has been sitting for long periods of time without being started for as long as 4 months. Someone mentioned that the diaphragm in the fuel pump might be bad so I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace what is probably the original fuel pump.

I have questions about replacing the fuel pump on a 1982 22R please...

1) I bought a Bosch fuel pump at eBay for only $19.00 but now I'm seeing posts recommending OEM fuel pumps only. This Bosch says "Meets or exceeds OE specifications" and "Precision OE fit and installation" on the box. Is "OE" as good as "OEM"?

2) It also says on the box: "This fuel pump must be installed with a new filter screen (not included) or warranty is void." What is a "screen filter" and where is it located? Is the screen filter something I can buy from a regular auto parts store like Kragen or Pep Boys?

3) I replaced the fuel filter and the two hoses to the fuel filter last week and was thinking I should probably replace the other fuel line that goes to the fuel pump. Does anyone know how much hose I should buy? Just asking because the vehicle isn't here for me to check that and I'm hoping to buy everything I need beforehand so I can blow through the installation without having to stop and leave to buy more stuff.

4) I just read online somewhere that I should use a torque wrench when installing this. Is that true? Are the torque wrenches at Harbor Freight good enough for occasional use? And does anyone know what the setting should be for tightening the two fuel pump bolts with a torque wrench?

Anything else you want to impart would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much!

toastyjosh

iTrader: (1)

Bosch pump is fine.
No idea about 2 qnd 3
4 yea, just check the settings a lot. I have one works just fine.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Fuel filter is either going to be down along the tank side frame rail or on the inside passenger inner fender well.

Just throw the new fuel pump on.. two nuts, just make sure you have the spacer between the pump and the block..5 minute job.
Don't over torque (15 ft/lbs I think) easy to twist off the stud...pita to replace a broken stud..

Redneck_Yota7

OE stands for Original Equipment, like any thing that came original on the vehicle, as for OEM, it stands for Original Equipment Manufactured, which means if something says OEM Toyota parts, it's made by Toyota. So that is just saying that the company says they meet or exceed the specs that the factory uses to make the part. I've used lots of Bosch parts and have never had a problem. There are better brands out there, but in my opinion for the price, and warranty Bosch or Duralast kind of brands work well enough for most parts I put in my Toyota.

As for number 2, when you take the fuel pump out of the tank there is a filter on the end of the fuel pump that pre filters the fuel before running it through the line to make sure any sediment or rust that might be present in the tank won't run through the pump and ruin it. Those you can get at auto parts stores, if I remember right they are around $10 or $20 or so. They are just covering their own hind ends so someone doesn't put an old filter screen, or no screen on there and expect the company to go through with the warranty if that is what caused failure. You might be able to take some carb cleaner and spray the filter screen out before you put it on the fuel pump to clean that screen out. When working on my fourwheeler I take the fuel filter and give it a good spray with carb cleaner and then blow some compressed air after when I'm cleaning the fuel filter. My fourwheeler fuel filter is made out of the same material as the fuel screen for my Toyota. It's up to you if you want to run the risk of a warranty being invalidated where the pump only costs $20. If it were me I would get the new fuel screen, but my fuel pump also costs about $150 last time I replaced it. Sorry about the length of this post, hopefully it answers your questions without boring you to much.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Usually from 79-94 on the 22r from what I have seen is the filter is next to the tank and is round and about 2 or 3 inches tall. Another one that is over looked is the one in the tank and get in really bad condition is connected at the end of the fuel pick up line.

Even though the picture below says it is for a diesel, it is the same filter. I dont know what you would call the build up on the filter, but I would say it is like a laquer that hardens up and fuel cant flow thru it. You might be surprised at how solid it can get.

Part number for a new intank filter is #77023-12050. On ebay it is called a TOYOTA FACTORY NIB FUEL FILTER SUCTION TUBE DIESEL. It was selling for $4.50 when I finally found it. I paid $15 at Toyota.

83

This is not an electric fuel pump. It's good to see what year truck the OP is asking about before giving a bunch of info that will just confuse them Manual pump, not in the gas tank.

I always prefer OEM, but with these mechanical fuel pumps, they're all pretty bullet-proof. I have a $50 one from NAPA that works fine for me.

You're replacing just the rubber fuel lines to the pump? I'd go ahead and buy 10' or so. It's cheap. Then you'll have more than enough, and if you decide to replace all the rubber fuel lines you might be able to with that much.

If you don't have any experience with bolt-tightening, a torque wrench is not a bad idea. With some jobs, it's a requirement. If you use a manual, it will tell you to use a torque wrench on EVERYTHING. Just don't overtighten, and you'll be fine. On stuff like this, you just don't want to strip the threads, or snap off the bolt head.

Other people could probably explain what "tight enough" is better than me...but you don't need to put your back into it or anything. Just get it tight.

Not sure our trucks have that fuel filter in the post above. I've never seen it, anyways...

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

So does the carb 22r have a pre-filter in the tank or is just the fuel injected 22re with the in-tank pump?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The filter above is for carbed motors and is located inside the tank. It is the same filter that goes into a 79 truck and a 88 truck and both are 22r motors. Some dont know they have it, but the three trucks I have been into on the gas tanks in they were there and in bad shape. They tend to get neglected. Here is a diagram of it.

Link>>> http://www.utoyot8.com/FullImage.asp...c44..3QT%2cHLF

I have an 84 parts truck and I plan on doing some work on my trucks in the next few days and will pull the pick up assembly out of the tank and post some pics of it. If it warms up.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Good to know! I think we should all replace ours for the price. I will be replacing fuel lines and fuel tank, will be doing that at the same time!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The 22r has a filter in the tank and one usually out side on the tank. I think 82 had it located in a different area or one year did but I could be wrong. The filter in the above pic (lower right side of pic) is for 79-95 according to toyotaparts east.com A manual pump is located on the passenger side front of the motor by the valve cover, just behind the hook that is used for lifting the motor ( that is if it is still there ).

The 22re has a fuel pump in the tank and a fuel filter on the block on the passenger side.

83

Interesting! No wonder nobody gets to them, since it's tempting to just drop the tank to replace it. I wonder if you'd "need" to drop the tank? Not that it's a very big job, but still.

On all my Toyota trucks, 22R and RE, the fuel filter has been on the frame, just in front of the gas tank on the passenger side.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

gillesdetrail..On my 88 runner build below. on the first page, I show how I cleaned and repaired my tank if you want to look at different options.

83...There are 2 different ways of getting the fuel assembly out. One is to drop the tank like you mentioned. I dont suggest that way just because depending on how bad your fuel assembly is rusted, it might not take alot of stress and bust the metal lines. Some like to do it that way, but sometimes finding a new pickup assembly can be hard to find and possibly expensive. Also from my experience, there just isnt a whole lot of room while dropping the tank and much slack on the fuel lines. Others may suggest doing it this way. Probably rust and personal preference.

The other way that like to do it is since your truck is running fine and may be a repair you want to do at a later time, I would suggest start soaking your bed bolts in a few days or week in advance or so in PB Blaster. You can lift the bed completely off or leave the drivers side bolts loose and tilt the bed, but I personally take the bed completely off for safety and better access and less chance of doing any damage. I have had to do it that way when I had no help or equipment to lift the bed off myself.

Depending on rust seems to be what determines how people get access to their tanks. The bed bolts can be a bear to get off, but with plenty of soaking time, there is less chance of damage to the fuel lines and an impact will take the bolts right off. Soaking them is almost mandatory, but that depends on the climate you live in. Southwest part of the country probably wouldnt have any problems at all.

You can get the filter off of ebay cheaper, but shipping exceeded the cost over dealership from my experience. I have not checked the price from Toyotapartseast. I have been into 3 of these carbed tanks and 2 of the filters had several holes in them about the diameter of a pencil. I think you could be surprised at the conditon of your filter. I was.

Another problem I see when working on these fuel tanks is that the return lines are clogged. Sometimes I can use an air hose to clear the lines and other times I have let the lines soak in Marvel Mystery Oil for a few days and keep working it til I get a clear line.

I have seen this on several trucks both EFI and carbed. My opinion on this is the humidity here gets in the tank when filling up and and then rust in the tank. I have seen some bad cases of rust on the tank.

Seems to me that the trucks especially and not so bad on the 4Runners is dirt and mud gets on top of the tank and just starts eating it up with rust. I am guessing the 4 Runner body manages to keep the gas tank protected a little better. I know you have an 83, but as far as the fuel assemblies, the fuel systems are basically the same from 79-95 for the most part. Just wanted to post this for others as well. Just about all of my builds start out with the gas tank getting repaired or replaced.

83

Great, thanks. I replaced all my rubber fuel lines and drained my tank last year. I feel like I took out my tank...but maybe I didn't. I don't remember having it sitting on the ground, I only remember taking the skid plate off and then taking bolts out of the tank...maybe I got to a point and realized I was better off not taking it all the way out. I don't remember now. Either way, there isn't much rust to deal with on my truck.

So is there nothing attached to the bed, other than bolts to the frame? I guess there are obviously the tail light wires, but nothing else?

magentawave

Thanks for all of your input! This will help a lot.

Just to clarify... I already replaced the fuel filter that sits on top of the wheel well on the passenger side but are you saying that there is another fuel filter that is either inside or just outside the gas tank of a 1982 22R?

Redneck_Yota7

Ah shoot sorry about that I must have misread the year on that one. Hopefully some of the info can apply and assist, I know the answer to number 2 should still apply! Thanks for catching that

83

Yeah there's still some good info in your post. I'm definitely learning some things in this thread!

Redneck_Yota7

well glad to hear it, I'll have to make sure I read a little closer next time before I blab on about something that might not apply at all.

magentawave

Guys, I went to replace the mechanical fuel pump today but I could not find the frikkin fuel pump! I assumed it would be at the end of the two fuel hoses I replaced with the fuel filter last week. This really bothers me and especially after reading how someone else replaced their fuel pump in about five minutes. Now I'm wondering if this 82 has an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank?? What do I know (not much), but stuffing a fuel pump inside the gas tank seems like the lamest place to put one! Yes I know lots of cars now do it that way, but why?

Redneck_Yota7

It doesn't make sense to me to put it in the tank either, electricity and gas shouldn't be so close in my opinion, well I guess the fact that the gas helps cool down the pump so it doesn't overheat is a positive

83

I don't know about "a lot" of vehicles putting it in the gas tank. I think they all do.



Front of the passenger side of my engine, under the oil fill cap, there is a hook sticking up. right under it there's a hole, and that's where the fuel pump would go. Sorry I don't have better photos right now. Someone will.