My name is Landcruisin60 and I'm a mini truck n00b.

Well a few weeks ago I sold my FJ60 that I had built over the last few years. I wanted to get something smaller, with less sheet metal and less glass to wheel. So I hopped on C-list looking for an FJ40. After striking out on a few 40s I saw this 81 pickup posted. In terms of rust its pretty clean. The body mounts in the foot wells need help and there's one spot on the frame that needs attention. Other than that it has 84 axles, G52 trans, dual cases and a Weber carb.

Which leads me into my problems. It ran great when I bought it on Sunday, but it was also in the upper 30s. I tried starting it to take it off the trailer yesterday when it was only in the mid teens and it wouldnt fire. I dont believe temp has that much to do with it. My 60 with the factory Aisin carb would start in much colder temps with no issues. I tinkered around with it, when I bought it the guy was running it out of a soda bottle with some fuel in it. It got cold and dark so I stopped for the night. Today I drained the tank, flushed the fuel lines, put new soft lines and filter in it and tried starting it. Nothing. It'll pop and sputter but not start. It has a Carter electric pump. Which was wired very...interestingly.

Did these things have manual choke from the factory? There's no choke knob in the cab, but there's choke linkage on the carb, that is not hooked to anything.

Here's a bunch of pictures, maybe someone that knows these better will see something and think "ah ha!" I have a 94 parts truck with a good running RE. I'm thinking it might just come down to an RE swap, IFS outers up front and IFS rear axle. But I'd love to get this thing working so I can putt around in it.

Here's the ol' girl, I miss her.


The "new" truck...











Any input would be much appreciated.

 

Nice find!
That e-pump looks scary! it works right? I would get a new one and wire it right or throw on a replacment stock manual pump. Also get a fuel pressure regulator and guage for your weber.



I dont not know what weber that is, a 34 ?


get on of these for the valve cover.
http://www.lceperformance.com/K-N-Br...-p/3035040.htm

 

If you really want to get in to the re swap. I think you should try to get this going right first.
Lots of links:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...pickup-263701/

 

You have two fuel filters, the glass one you can see if it is running fuel but the metal one looks pretty old. It's not one made for Toyotas but that's not a big deal.
Love the throttle return spring.
Looks like you could have major vacuum leaks but I can't tell from the pics. Looks like a fun winter project.

 

You have two fuel filters, the glass one you can see if it is running fuel but the metal one looks pretty old. It's not one made for Toyotas but that's not a big deal.
Love the throttle return spring.
Looks like you could have major vacuum leaks but I can't tell from the pics. Looks like a fun winter project.

 

Thanks Josh for the links. I was told its a 32/36 but on the carb it says 32DFD, I Googled that and didnt really come up with much information at all. The pump works, well, it pumps. I have no way of knowing what pressure its pumping to, but its not much. I can borrow a gauge to test it. I believe the Weber wants 3.5 PSI? I thought about tossing a mechanical pump back on, but its wasted money if I swap in an RE. If I dont swap in an RE I'm going to run it on Pane. So either way, wasted money.

UPS- those pictures are from right when I got it. That metal fuel filter has been replaced with a generic clear plastic filter and all the soft lines are new. I also cleaned out the glass filter. I know the post pump filter is unnecessary, but I figured it couldnt hurt anything. Also all the vacuum caps that were cracked have been replaced.

It ran great when I bought it and the only difference was it was pumping fuel out of a bottle and not the tank. Maybe I'll hook up a bottle and see if that makes any difference. Maybe the pickup sock is plugged and its not really getting the fuel it needs. Or the pump could be weak and not able to draw enough fuel.

 

this is what my 32/36 looks like.


Anyway i think your in the right track with the pump. It may be to week to pull fuel from the tank, or the tank pick up thing is all clogged up.
You have any junk yards around, you may be able to pull a stock pump off for like 5bucks.

 

After what I've been reading here lately there is a good possibility your in-tank filter is clogged and it is cheap to replace, difficulty depends on how rusty everything is. Does it run if you drop a bit of fuel in the carb?

 

 

Also your electric pump may work better if it was closer to your tank. They push fuel better than they pull it. Mine is right next to my fuel cell.

 

I do have some local junkyards but last time I was checked they didnt have any 22R trucks.

I havent tried dropping any fuel in the carb. I think I'll try that and running it out of a soda bottle next. Then I'll take the sending unit out of the tank and have a look at the pickup. Shouldn't be too hard to take out, doesnt look too rusty.

That was another thing I was wondering. The fuel pump placement seems pretty horrible.

Did these trucks have an electric choke from the factory?

 

yes these trucks did have electric chokes, if you look at the pic I posted of my truck. By the batt cables you will see a green plug that is the plug for the factory choke on my truck.
I still have not hooked mine up yet for the weber, that is the plug i will use when i figure it out.
I start mine all the time with out the choke, just have to keep my foot on the gas for a while.

BTW you should start a build thread for this bad boy!!

 

I can see about a half dozen potential vacuum leaks under that hood. I would start by making it air tight because changing too much

 

So correct me if I'm wrong but in this picture you can see that it has a later model head with the dual pattern, correct?


So I can bolt all my EFI parts from the parts truck onto this engine and be good to go. I think thats the route I'll take. This engine was supposedly recently rebuilt, while the RE in my parts truck has 200k.

 

That looks like the fuel filter we use on our '64 IH Scout, we have a simular setup on the scout and it works ok (in line electric fuel pump). At least better than the original mechanical pump. BUT that being said, the Toyota mechanical pumps seem to be solid and cheap. Unlike the scout's.

It is absolutely a newer 22R head. These years, 81-83 heads are more rounded. 79-80 is the 20R.

 

It's definitely got an RE valve cover, but I don't know how to tell the difference between heads.

 

I'll measure the block tomorrow and get a definitive answer. Do people think it would be easier to transfer all the EFI parts onto this engine or swap the entire 22RE in?

 

Do a compression test on her first. Its hard to imagine that motor was recently built.

And go get a couple cans of engine degreaser. That thing is crusty. I hate working on a dirty motor. First thing I would do.

There are links on the site here and there to a 83 factory service manual that will be invaluable to you.

 

Well I got it running today. Runs pretty good! Drove it around for a bit. I think once I get my shop in shape and a couple jobs out of the way I'll bring this in, pop the cab off the frame, fix some rust on the cab, some rust on the frame and swap engines. Also need to do RUF, either link the rear or 63s. I'd rather link it, but money might tell me otherwise. High steer with hydro assist, longs, drive flanges etc etc.

 

your 22R is definitely a later model. the early 22R's have a sloped valve cover at the front of the engine