Mister2

Hi. I am thinking about getting a CV driveshaft since my stock drive shaft snapped at the u-joint. From what I am reading it's not as strong. CV driveshaft would make the truck better because of the angle by the lift.

What else am I missing?

Thanks.

NCalDyer

CV's typically arent as strong as the normal driveline.

sure they maintain a better constant velocity, but as a driveline you should focus on strength.

did the u-joint itself break? or the actual shaft? if it was just the joint they are cheap and easy to replace, if not i would look into having a custom driveline made instead of using a CV

slacker

iTrader: (1)

what is your truck used for ? .. lift ?
pic might help ..


as above .. no .. CV's traditionally are not very strong for extreem off road use


.

Mister2

There no offroad site here around milwaukee. I DD my truck. Work each way is 70 miles, i average about 70mph. I snapped the u joint by the t-case. My rear axle are pumpkin already. I snapped it at 74mph on the freeway.

Mister2

The flange on the driveshaft one of them is gone, either it blew off while it pop, or me rolling down the freeway at 22r record, it hit the ground and broke off.

scuba

I can't add anything about the situation but you have a beautiful truck.
And thanks for serving

Team420

had the same thing happen to my 93... U can get a custom shaft made for about $300-$400 (at least around here u can... and thats cheaper than buying new from the dealer F.Y.I.)
While youre at it... I'd check a bunch of other things... when mine came apart.. I was on the highway at 80mph, the shaft came down from t-case, hit ground, then swung to the pass side, and got ripped off by the rear wheel.... The flange on the rear diff snapped, and it bent the pinion shaft, also caused the wheel bearing on that side to start making some noise, and a lil vibration.....
Now for the other end.... It bent the output shaft coming outta the transfer... I did not check for this before putting a new shaft, and diff in, and started driving... felt nasty vibration, so decided to pull the shaft down, put the truck in gear, and watch the output shaft... sure enough, it was bent. I decided to drive it that way for a few miles., and just look for a new tranfer, about 15k miles later(lol) my torque converter came thru the bell housing....
Hopefully, yours isnt as bad as mine was, but check it out REAL good, and fix it right, or you will have more problems in the future!

BTW... I'm still running the same tranny/torque conv/transfer... I pulled the transfer apart, and put a new output shaft in her (had a spare transfer at the time), and new bell housing... that was 7 years and 100k miles ago...lol

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

For daily on-road use on a lifted Toyota truck like yours, a CV on you rear dshaft is a must IMO.

:wabbit2:

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I found on my '85, that when the rear shaft angle got up into the 12-15 degree angle range, it would no longer run smooth at speed with u-joints, even w/ perfect alignment and shaft balance. Swapped to a CV shaft and things were much smoother, you will need to realign the rear axle/pinion flange for the change in joints:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Measurements

Note that proper alignment is required for either type of shaft, so if it is off for the current setup, that might have been the cause of failure.

Mister2

Just got home. Got measurements for a drivelive made locally. Bigger u-joint. I drive it home fwd.




now i got a hole where the pieces hit cab, right ontop of the u-joint

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Hard to tell for sure from the pix., but it looks like your flange alignment is off, pinion flange seems to be tipped up too far:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...n-Measurements

cubuff4runner

It looks like your pinion is pointing at the tcase which will cause issues with u-joints. A CV will be much better.. On a side note with the break you have you can just pull a slip yoke from a junk yard and slide it on.

blake.nemitz

is that ATF in there? i like the classic spray under the body of fluid. it wont leak as much if you run a 90w gear oil in there

Mister2

Hi. I measure top bolt to top bolt, bottom to bottom.

top = 49"

bottom = 48 5/8"

off by a little since you would want the bottom to be at equal or just a tab longer.

Mister2

IDK, I thought the last owner had redline or redline synthetic in there. It's been leaking since I got the truck. I open the filler to check the level since it was leaking but somehow it is over filled and the was gushing out so I quickly plugged it out.

The spray by the u-joint it happen when it snap. There has never been any leak there. I didn't notice anymore when I drove it home today.

Mister2

Ok so I picked up the driveshaft. 13/10 u-joint. This should work a lot better than the old one ( I think it was stock). Going to put a couple of coat of KBS Rust seal on. Tomorrow I will put it on the truck or Saturday. Man I was looking at getting a 4runner to DD as a bak up but I think I am going to finish my mr2 versus another truck.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Awesome truck. You got lucky that nothing else happened if you were going 70+ mph.
I still would have gotten a CV shaft made...

Is that an Inchworm transfer case? They paint their stuff blue

Mister2

Yes an Inchworm transfer ase.

cubuff4runner

As 4crawler mentioned and diagrammed before. It looks like part of the reason for the failure is the pinion angle. The pinion should only point strait at the transfer case if it has a CV. Your pinion should be flat with the driveshaft you have.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

in this pic it almost looks like the pinion is pointed past (above) being pointed directly at the TC..probably just the angle

my CV vs stock shaft:


when painting something like a DS-hanging from bent up coat hangers works great