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Clutch Job Pricing? Conondrum...

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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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Clutch Job Pricing? Conondrum...

So, I have a shop that I've been taking me vehicles to for years now. I trust them implicitly, as they've always been very honest and good at what they do. They never do unnecessary work or try to up-sell me on services.

But, here's the problem. I may need a clutch done on my '81. The price they quoted me was over $900 which included throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch, resurfacing the flywheel, etc. There is another shop that has some recommendations I've found online for another local shop that specializes in toyota who quoted me $600 for the same thing.

What difference could there possibly be to justify another $300? I love my shop and would love to remain loyal, but that's a pretty hefty difference.

Thoughts? Advice?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:31 AM
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Clutch kit $250 at most.
$250-500 labor at most.

Your shop is still at least $250 high.

Do it yourself and save money.

Last edited by rworegon; Aug 3, 2014 at 01:00 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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labor rates per hour difference maybe?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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wabbit:

I lack know-how, time, tools, and room to work So, I sacrifice money...

Difference must be labor, but that means that labor costs twice as much at that shop.

The other possibility is they don't want the work, so they overpriced on purpose....or they're too enamored by their Napa affiliation?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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did they give you a detailed estimate or just pulled numbers off their head? I have overshot numbers when not sitting down to do a detailed estimate. Or thought tacoma which is 900 when the customer had a regular pickup which was 600. Having said that always use a mechanic that specializes in toyota, it will be done faster and right the first time.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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Well, she put together the estimate off the phone and called me back with it. I don't know the process the use for that stuff, unfortunately.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by drokliss
Well, she put together the estimate off the phone and called me back with it. I don't know the process the use for that stuff, unfortunately.
Ask for a breakdown at both shops, that will answer yoru question in a hurry
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by eurospec1
Ask for a breakdown at both shops, that will answer yoru question in a hurry
Good call, thanks!

As a side note, disaster has been averted, as the shop found (I should have looked first) that mounting bolts on the transmission were loose and the starter bolt was only on finger-tight. Shifting MUCH better now. There's still some issue with either the clutch or transmission, but it's livable for now.

Thanks y'all.
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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spot on eurospec. took the words right out of my fingers!
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:10 PM
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Fast forward 4 months and I'm up to my elbows in a clutch swap. Getting the flywheel off was a pain, and hopefully I'll be picking up an L52 from trekkerpaul tomorrow (if it all works out).

Anybody know a good way to get the top bolts on the transmission back on w/out torking the heck out of the engine mounts? I had a great time getting them off in the rain, hah.

Last edited by vital22re; Mar 27, 2011 at 09:22 PM. Reason: bypassing censor
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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Unbolt the motor mounts and move it forward a bit. Might have to disconnect a couple other things.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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Lack of a hoist for supporting that engine worries me a little. All I have is a 20" high floor jack, maybe jackstands.

Or do you mean leave it on the mounts just shift by an inch or so? Enough to get my arm back there?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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Go buy a hoist. They fold up and take up minimal room. Buy a cheap or used one.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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3 foot of extensions and a swivel to get them from the backside with a ratchet.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by sebastianholmes
3 foot of extensions and a swivel to get them from the backside with a ratchet.
I tried this, different year, but 22re, and had a bit of a time with the swivels, couldn't get a good bite.... So, used a Snap-on hard angled 17MM racheting closed end wrench, from the top/back, and once I got them started, zip! lol. Once snug, a breaker bar with 45*-over angled socket mount and a shallow 17mm socket did the trick. Used nearly the same method for that ground wire bolt on the back of the head/block plate. Worked great.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sebastianholmes
3 foot of extensions and a swivel to get them from the backside with a ratchet.
That method didnt work for me. Even with an autoshop full of tools i couldnt get it to work well.

Chefs idea is probably the best one. But im lazy so i would use my hoist idea
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2DoorRunner
That method didnt work for me. Even with an autoshop full of tools i couldnt get it to work well.

Chefs idea is probably the best one. But im lazy so i would use my hoist idea
hahaha! I hear ya!

Far as the idea, ....it worked for me in 5 minutes, after struggling for over an hour trying to get an angle, tearing up my arms with other tools... that hard angled open/closed end or just the racheting one if it's handy, ...HOLY CRAPOLI, eeezy peeezy pie! lol. In fact, I think it was a LOT less work then messing with the mounts, etc., but maybe not, lol.

I'm not lazy, but trust me, ...I ALWAYS try to find a way to work 'smarter not harder', lol. I was actually laughing at myself when I looked down at the tools and saw that wrench.....then thought, "WHY THE HECK NOT? GIMME THAT!" lol.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
I tried this, different year, but 22re, and had a bit of a time with the swivels, couldn't get a good bite.... So, used a Snap-on hard angled 17MM racheting closed end wrench, from the top/back, and once I got them started, zip! lol. Once snug, a breaker bar with 45*-over angled socket mount and a shallow 17mm socket did the trick. Used nearly the same method for that ground wire bolt on the back of the head/block plate. Worked great.
Sounds like about the best option (sorry, don't feel up to buying a hoist today).

Thanks all. My knuckles thank you too (already tore one up pretty bad on the flywheel)
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 06:35 AM
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Maybe my hands are smaller...but I have no problem getting a short socket wrench with adjustable angle on it (sorry don't know the exact term for it) in there on the top two bolts. Sure, I only get about a quarter turn at a time, but probably 5 minutes each is all it takes.

A friend of mine had a bunch of extensions and swivles when we took it out, and that also worked. He wasn't there when we started putting it back in, so I just used my shorty with the adjustable-angle-head and everything went just fine. Never needed to crank on the engine or loosen mounting bolts.

But I'll say...the first (and probably second) time you do this job, are always way harder. This last time working on my tranny was my 3rd time doing the job. I really can't believe how easy it was...even the "problem" bolts, like the ones you're talking about, gave me no trouble at all.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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Not a bad thought. A neighbor has a stubby ratchet I can use, although i can barely get my arm in there. Not sure about adjustable angle, it just has a 90 deg. angle on it. One side I was able to get from between the wheel and cab, the other was the biggest pain.

Should I not worry about getting it to the "right torque"?
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