Just rebuilt my Weber 32/36 as the truck wasn't accelerating well and sputtered a lot. (Just bought this rig and know little to nothing about it.) 1982 22R..

Anyway she idles great now but when I try to give it gas it bogs down and dies....When I choke it, it will rev up nicely but with the choke butterflies open, it bogs and dies.

I'm not a carb guy so any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

If I were you I would go read the instructions that came with the kit. It sounds as if maybe a small piece of debris is some how stuck where it is blocking the main jet. I would bet it is something simple.

 

Check float level and accelerator pump

 

Strange but the kit didn't come with any instructions. I set the float levels etc.. based off of YouTube videos. Accelerator pump, gaskets, needle and seat, all that stuff is new from the kit.

I did just read an old post where the guy was talking about his venturi's where the brass tubes had loosened and the notched openings weren't pointing down anymore but had rotated. I noticed when I was putting my carb back together that these notches were not pointing down either. One was 90 degrees off and pointing sideways and the other was 180 off and pointed straight up.. Pretty sure those notches are supposed to be pointed downward to squirt gas down into the intake??

Been busy as hell with life but will try to adjust those notches and get them pointing downward. Those are supposed to be pointed down, right???

 

Not a good sign, which could possibly mean it's a Chinese made knockoff (not genuine Weber) in which case it may never run right. Fake 32/36 DGEV's have been on the market for a while; I found several still for sale brand new on Ebay.

How to tell the difference? (NEW carbs only)
1. Genuine Weber Carbs ALWAYS come with instructions and a 1 year warranty from Redline. The fakes often have a CD or DVD with them but no printed instructions at all, & no mention of any warranty or warranty paperwork.
2. Price - Normal retail on these carbs is between $329 & $359, & you usually won't see one discounted below $269. The fakes usually sell for $170 to $200, but usually less than $200. Price too good to be true? Yep.
3. Body/Parts Castings - Fakes have rough castings with an "unfinished" look (not polished or tumbled to smooth), raised "flashing" seam lines still in the metal (Weber takes the time & effort to remove these), and sometimes file & tool marks. Genuine Webers will have a more finished look, no flashing seam lines, and will have the Weber "W" & name cast into the bowl cover. The name will also be cast into the accelerator pump cover and somewhere on the carb body "WEBER MADE IN SPAIN" will be cast into the metal. Fakes will not have any markings cast into the metal, may have stickers instead. The stickers are a dead giveaway that it's fake, despite what some others have posted on this site in other threads.
4. Not always 100% true, but genuine carbs have a white choke coil assembly, fakes have a black one. Just look for any 32/36 DGEV on Ebay under $200 & you'll see this.
5. Genuine 32/36's will have a downwards pointing fuel inlet. Some (but not all fakes) will have a fuel inlet directly parallel to the ground (goes to the side instead of downwards).

I do hope your Weber is not fake. As for what you are describing in what it is doing, the carb sounds like it's running lean, since it only does OK with the choke on, which makes the mixture richer by cutting off some airflow. Since it idles but stumbles when you get on the gas, I'd suspect that your idle circuit is partially or completely blocked, and the engine is idling mostly off the main jet. I've seen this before in stock Aisin carbs and occasionally on Weber 32/36's, and some other 2 barrels. Engine "falls on it's face" when you get on the gas because there isn't enough fuel coming from the idle circuit, which BTW flows gas even at speeds higher than idle. I'd try shooting some carb cleaner into the idle passages then blowing them out with some air & see if that helps. If you do have a fake carb, the internal passages might be messed up, have pieces of metal shaving in them from when they were drilled, or even not drilled out at all. All very difficult to fix & usually not worth the effort.

 

Yes, those openings in the tubes must be pointed down into the carb or you will get a bog when you open the throttle. It took a long time to figure this out on mine but once I did it solved my problem.

In addition to pointing them down you need to make sure they're in tight. One of mine vibrated back up after fixing it and only a little driving. If you think about it, it makes sense. The side of the tube without the opening is heavier than the side with the opening. So it naturally wants to face in the wrong direction.
Once mine were set I used the conical shape of a punch to just BARELY spread the bore open so they stay tight in there and don't move. Just enough that they can still be removed, if ever needed, with a little persuasion.

Beyond that, make sure you follow Redline's 32/36 settings for lean best idle to a 'T' and set your timing right. I run mine around 12 degrees at idle with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Fuel pressure at or under 3 psi. No carb vacuum leaks.

After that it should be rock solid!

 

Finding your post saved me a ton of time Pun. Got 'em fixed and that solved the problem.

So you have your timing set at 12 degrees BTDC?

 

I do but mine is not a stock 22R. Bored .02 over, Crawler camshaft, header, Weber carb. So probably not the best measure for setting your own timing. I'm actually running a 38/38 Weber right now but it runs better with advanced timing on either carb for me. Vacuum advanced distributor with the forward port blocked.

Glad you got your carb figured out!