Hey guys, back again, this time Ive moved on from the 79 to a 82.

Anyway, long story short, When i got it it ran great, idled a little high, two weeks later it was having a fuel issue. Sporadic and would clear itself up after a bit. So i replaced the fuel line, and ran two inline filters, bottom filter is getting some gunk top one is clean as a whistle. Removed and cleaned the egr at the same time. Ran great after that. Then it came back, similar fuel type issue as before and still having some studder, so I removed the carb and cleaned it threw it back on, then it started to bog between 2k and 2950 rpm. Above or below those rpms it ran great under load. So I pulled the distributor, the pickup coil was broken. So I went to the scrap yard and found one, replaced fired right up. Still bogging under load, pull the plugs, 1 is fouled 3 are rich mixture burnt. Replaced those. Reset the carb tuning to base, set timing at 5BTDC, idles at 1k perfect all day, fires right up and in neutral you can rev it all the way up no problem, as soon as its in gear it bogs and jerks similar to a bad gas type feeling, after 3k it picks back up and takes off for a second then does it again.

Im stumped, Ive been through everything on every site and read countless other peoples stories, Ive got a Haynes and Chiltons out and just cant get it right. Ive removed the distributor cap and rotor and sanded all the points, the cap and rotor looked new. Ive replaced the plugs, the wires were new. Reset all settings to base and tuned out and still I get the bog under load.. any insight would be helpful, im 3 days out of work so far because I cant get there and I have twins on the way!

 

Check your AAP (Auxiliary Accelerator Pump). It is on the side of your carb, is round in shape and has three screws on it. There should also be a vacuum hose going to it. It is there to give you a little extra shot of gas while the engine is warming up or if you drive it before getting to full operating temperature. There is a spring and a diaphragm inside of it; the diaphragm over time gets stiff and can develop pinholes or ruptures. When this happens, gas is always going past the diaphragm & into the vac line.

Pull the vac line to check for gas in the line. If you find it, that plus the fouled #1 spark plug indicate that this is the problem. The gas goes thru the vac line straight to #1, so that's why it fouls up. You can replace the diaphragm, or most people just pull the vac line and cap the port on the AAP. Have seen it done both ways.

Otherwise, check to make sure your secondary linkage isn't stuck or binding; could cause the stumble @ that RPM range IMO. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the response 13, I checked the aap, it's a like new diaphragm, the carb was rebuilt before I purchased it and is labeled "Holley remanufactured" still a asain unit. I pulled the carb back apart to check all the linkages they all seem to open and close as they should. I also noticed during this that the fuel level through the sight is way too high. So I've pulled it and fiddled with the float about 20 times now, even made a little gauge based on my year spec, Still flooding. So today I begin the process of getting the float back into spec and I'll report back after. Anyone have any tricks to setting it back shade tree style? My micrometer is too far away for me not to have to drive and get it.

 

No problem. I would mention however that Holley hasn't been doing rebuilds on Aisans for a while now, so that carb may have been cleaned & rebuilt a while ago, and has been on the shelf until you bought it. Diaphragms & rubber parts can still go bad just sitting for a while, dry. Only way to make sure your AAP diaphragm is OK is to put a strong light behind it, Mine looked OK & was just a little stiff, but when I held it between the sun & my eye, I saw the pinholes. As it dried out, it started to crumble away. Just a thot.

Sorry, no advice on shade-tree setting of float levels. I've caused myself waaaay too much extra work over the years doing things like that. Best to measure IMO. Hmmm, mebbe seat also dried out on the shelf and doesn't want to seal up right? Be patient with yourself on the float adjustment, it's way fiddly, like most of them are, tiny adjustments, etc. BTW, in case you didn't already have it, here's the spec:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...e/DSC03557.jpg

Heh, by contrast your problems are easy tho. If you have a month to spare, check out my post "1978 20R won't keep running"

 

When I took the aap diaphragm off i held it up to the sun and didn't see any holes. Well ive now fixed the flooding, on the sight its just a mm above the screws but its running and idling right. However its still bogging under load. I went to back it up to take a test spin and as soon as it hits about 1200 rpm it wants to die, throw it back in neutral or clutch it and it goes right back to idle perfect. So Im back to square one.

Maybe my mixture settings are just way off or something? But its not smoking or smelling of gas or backfiring. The linkage as far as I can tell work as they should, with the throttle under the hood if i hit it it goes right up let off it goes right back down, with a slight throaty delay during the accel pump squirting. Man I know its just something simple and Im overlooking it.

 

Hmmm. Probably not the mixture, as that's really mostly for idle. Clogged fuel filter? You could disconnect the fuel line from the carb and do a flow test; should be a pint within 30 seconds.

Piece of junk blocking the main jet, secondary jet, or both? I'd at least pull the passenger side fuel bowl drain plug, check for junk in the gas, and squirt some carb cleaner at the main jet using the straw that comes with the can. you can look inside and see if it's coming thru or not. Easy enuff.

Junk blocking the transfer slot below the butterflys? Again more spraying, maybe a little compressed air.

Delay during accel pump squirt? Don't quite know what to make of that.

I agree, it's prolly something small. Just keep at it, you'll get it. I'm rooting for you!

:edit: Forgot to mention: electric or mechanical fuel pump? If mechanical & the truck was sitting for a while before you got it, that diaphragm could be bad. May be pumping enuff for idle but not above idle speeds; lack of volume for demand. At least it's an easy fix, putting on a new pump.
If it's electric not so easy, as it's inside the gas tank.

 

Hey guys, I’m having a similar problem with my 87 22r mechanical fuel pump, square plugged carb(does it make a difference?)
symptoms are as follows: slow acceleration to about 2500 RPM, low power, then bogs down and the throttle will not do anything, as if it’s not getting air or fuel at all, I can creep up to about 50 on flat pavement in 3rd gear but if I need to move up a hill it bogs and won’t produce any power. Only produces Minimal power with about 1/2 throttle. This happened suddenly after an afternoon on the trail, 4low crawling. I stalled it and rolled backwards in 1st gear. Which is what I thought caused the problem.

since then: reset the timing to 0* with vac advanced plugged/capped, with a properly functioning vac advance. New plugs, rebuilt carb, O2 sensor functioning, cat functioning w/o any clogs, clean air/fuel filter, AAP is functioning upon visual inspection and new diaphragms with the carb rebuild.
the truck will idle up to about 2500RPM with 20*timing advance then bog out, regardless of gear or engine speed.
I don’t have many tools, minimal hand tools and access to a timing light. I am currently about 1,300 miles from my garage and rebuilt my carb on a park bench. Any help or new insight is appreciated.
PS I know this is a pre’84 thread, but 22r is a 22r right?