goofybud16

I have a 1981 Toyota Pickup (Gas, 2WD) that has a corroded battery cable and fusible links. After Googling around, I cannot seem to find the connectors that it uses. I have the Chilton manual, and it says to cut out the link and replace it, however as the connectors are corroded, I wish to replace the connectors AND link.

I have yet to find the name for the round green water resistant spade connector, or where I can buy them.

Here is a link to an Imgur album showing where the links came from and why I wish to replace them: http://imgur.com/a/aGe7s

I have also had trouble finding the proper connector for the battery end of the cable. I cannot seem to locate the connector with the two spade connectors and a clamp or solder connector, I can only find one or the other.

The negative side cable appears to have no visible damage, and as the truck does start (so the starter is able to complete a circuit) I do not think it is faulty.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

You're likely not going to find fusible links or their connectors out there. Plus, over the years the links can get corroded and more vulnerable to blowing. You also do not want to cut them short because you need to be around 6" in length for them to be fully effective.

Here's what I did when I re-worked the wiring on my 83 Pickup:

I got some 16ga and 18ga (may be 20ga, I don't recall exactly) fusible link wire - you can buy 12' spools of it at Napa. I cut them into 6" sections with a male spade connector at one end and a 1/4" ring terminal at the other end. I then put a female spade connector on the corresponding wires in the harness that they would lead to. I mounted a power distribution block on the fender wall and ran an 8ga wire from the positive batter post to the distribution block. My fusible links are connected to the distribution block on the right terminal end and to the corresponding protected circuits on the spade connector end. I have a few extra fusible link wires made up that I keep in my glove box so that if I blow one for some reason then I can easily replace them. Works perfectly and looks clean. Here are some pictures for you:

Only 3 wires coming off of the battery - 8ga positive to the power distribution block, 4ga ground to the body/frame/engine and 4ga positive (on the side post) to the starter:


Here's what the fusible links look like:


Here's the power distribution block that I used (on the left), new battery terminal post connectors and ground bus bar (top right) to organize my accessory grounds (radio, gauges, lights, etc):


Here is how everything is mounted and wired in. Red 8ga wire comes from the positive batter post and the 3 fusible links connect to the corresponding protected circuits. Ground bus bar is to the right.


Hope this helps!

enigmaT120

What is the advantage of fusible links over installing a little fuse box?

goofybud16

Actually, that does! Thanks!

Assuming that the local Toyota dealership doesn't have all the links (or the links are expensive) this is the solution I will go with. I think it looks a bit nicer personally, however if the links are around the same cost, it is easier to just go with the factory links (again, assuming I can still buy new ones).

I actually looked into this: Fusible links take longer to blow than a fuse. You can get a spike of power that will blow a fuse, however it will not blow a link. I figure that Toyota designed it like this for a reason, and until recently (30+ years after manufacture) it has worked perfectly. Even now, the failure is probably due to the corrosion due to an improperly maintained battery. (The vehicle has 150k miles roughly, and for probably the last 10 years has not been driven often. It was an "I need to go grab some lumber or something that won't fit in a sedan" vehicle. In the last 5 years it has probably seen no more than 10k miles on it.)

Replacing it with a wire is also a bad idea, as the fusible link cable is designed to basically disintegrate safely in the event of it getting too much power through it. Regular wiring either won't disintegrate resulting in possible damage elsewhere, or it will catch on fire and possibly burn your truck down. Neither of those sound like something I want happening to my truck.

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I plan to start a rebuild soon, the truck is in fairly good condition other than a bad head gasket (most likely) dumping coolant into the oil. The interior is in fairly good condition (the floor mat needs replaced and the seats need redone, but the truck is 30+ years old.) and really the only major bodywork it needs is the decals (the gold/silver ones, they are peeling off and it just looks bad) removed and a new coat of paint. Except for the issues with the links, everything seems to work properly. The aftermarket radio (I hope that the dash hasn't been cut up) is toast, but that doesn't seem too hard to replace. I intend to go with a RetroSound 2 if the dash isn't cut up/I can get a replacement dash for a decent price.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Fusible link can carry a higher load
A fuse box would probably melt and catch fire

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

In as few words as possible, fusible links have the ability to take a momentary spike in load without blowing where as a standard fuse will blow as soon as the load surpasses the amperage rating of the fuse.

mudmaster

Nice wiring job kawazx636.

osucycler

Would it be possible to take some additional pictures of how you wired your fusible links behind and up to your battery? As well as some shots from the passenger side wheel well looking down? Thanks!

Pri$erulz

Thats brilliant. I recently had an engine compartment fire that toasted my fusible links - the last ones that toyota had in the country, and some of my other wiring. Ive been combing junk yards looking for an engine harness for connectors but to no avail. if anyone has a source for the green, water tight, cylindrical connectors toyota used that would be a huge help.


Apparently someone had taken the positive lead to the starter and zip tied it to the positive battery terminal and wrapped it in electrical tape. I never noticed it before until after the fire and am not sure if it was the machine shop that replaced the motor or the po. either way, don't try doing that.

nice work on your rig. it looks really good.