First of all an L52 is a five speed, L45 is 4 speed.
2-Does your fluid level drop so that you have to add often? That would indicate a leak.
3-When I replaced my Master cylinder I had to adjust the throw on it. Could that be the same on yours?
I'm sure an SS line won't hurt and you'll have to bleed it again anyhow.

 

i have a 5 speed and there are no leaks i never have to add fluid. i have adjusted the master cylinder as well.

 

no one said he had a 4 speed. 81 toy put that bolt on the front side and you will have the movement you need. that rod on your is adjustable. the picture I attached is spot on correct.

 

basically i need to know what slave cylinder works with that funky clutch fork. if anyone can figure it out that would help because i tried reversing that nut and there isnt enough movement in the fork. your picture looks correct but i dont have that much distance between my clutch fork and my slave

 

having a nut on both sides is restricting the movement by binding it, you are not allowing it to go through the necessary range of motion.
mash your clutch too hard and you will probably blow the slave cylinder.




Top two shift forks were both pulled from L-52 equipped 1st Gen 4x4 trucks
bottom one is a L43 shift fork

a little more info on clutch forks from Big Mike of Marlin Crawler
you posted a picture of an L-43 side shifter - different fork, cylinder

 

I was referring to the adjustable rods placement of the nuts.

 

Wow dropzone, great info.

What I would do is go to a toyota dealership with your vin and ask for the correct part number for the master cyl (you can also do it by internet) then you can order the correct one wether it's toyota or aftermarket or check the differences. If you want me to take a video of mine to help you I can, but I have a l45 4 speed (truck is also an 81)

 

Did the slave cylinder you bought have 2 rods in the box? The only thing off on yours is the rod. Toyota part number for 1981 RN48 chassis and L-52 gear box


slave is:
31470-35050
alternate:
31470-30260


I still believe you can remedy your problem by just moving the acorn nut to the correct side of your fork.


rod part# is:


31473-22010


M

 

The slave i put on it had the non threaded rod. i used the old rod from the slave i took off. i managed to get the acorn nut onto the other side of the rod but there in no movement and it cant be adjusted out any further...

 

Again, how sure are you it is 100% bled? Something about having to pump the pedal for 5 minutes for it to start working makes me think of a pressure issue, when you pump it for a while heat builds up and so does pressure, just my thought

 

yes there is something still off. Didn't you say your fluid is always dirty? whats contaminating it? Do you have the rod that came with it? Is it longer than the adjustable one? if you put the acorn on the side closest to slave and run it out most of the way, that in itself should have given you more movement then what you had?

for the price i guess i'd start over with a new slave and go from there.

@ Dropzone or Gillesde

Should he have a hole there in his fork or should there be a shallow cup/bowl the end of the piston rests in?

 

bleed it again, if you haven't since you moved the acorn. Bleeding clutch is a little trickier than brakes.

2 man job one in truck one under truck.
small jar with brake fluid
small hose that fits tight on bleeder valve other end submerged in fluid in jar.
open bleeder valve
slowly press clutch pedal to floor
then slowly release while valve is open.
do this till no more bubbles whilst depressing pedal.
lock it down.


This is what it says to do in book, more or less.

Maybe???

 

As far as the hole in the end of the clutch fork - as pictured- i have run into both. I don't know if the middle clutch fork was modified by a previous owner.
it does seem like of your are using the threaded 79-80 push rod it would help as it would allow you to use a screw driver to hold it as you adjust the adjusting nUT in and out.


Edit- I would think that between this thread and your thread on pirate you would have got this by now.

Pull both the master and slave and bench bleed them both. RuN a piece of tubing from the slave bleeder screw to a can so it isn't blowing everywhere when you bleed the system. Clean up all that oil and crap off your bell housing so you have an a clean slate, sorry but it looks like the ExxonMobil Valdez under your truck. You might find you don't have the clutch line fully tight and it isn't leaking, therefore allowing air into the system.

 

What he said on the oil and dirty fluid.
A greasy cruddy engine/trans/vehicle is a miserable thing to work on.

 

Finally got everything figured out! after adjusting the acorn nut on the slave cylinder out i had no clutch. The fork wouldnt move at all, So i adjusted it back in, replaced the worn clutch line with marlins stainless steel line and ran what felt like gallons of brake fluid through everything to clean out all of the dirt and whatever else was in the lines. I did multiple bleeds and the clutch finally has pressure. No slipping or anything. I guess the line was pulling air into the system like crazy. Thanks for everyone's input on this!

 

Glad you got it squared away