1981 1st gen L-52 slave cylinder help
#21
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First of all an L52 is a five speed, L45 is 4 speed.
2-Does your fluid level drop so that you have to add often? That would indicate a leak.
3-When I replaced my Master cylinder I had to adjust the throw on it. Could that be the same on yours?
I'm sure an SS line won't hurt and you'll have to bleed it again anyhow.
2-Does your fluid level drop so that you have to add often? That would indicate a leak.
3-When I replaced my Master cylinder I had to adjust the throw on it. Could that be the same on yours?
I'm sure an SS line won't hurt and you'll have to bleed it again anyhow.
#23
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no one said he had a 4 speed. 81 toy put that bolt on the front side and you will have the movement you need. that rod on your is adjustable. the picture I attached is spot on correct.
#24
basically i need to know what slave cylinder works with that funky clutch fork. if anyone can figure it out that would help because i tried reversing that nut and there isnt enough movement in the fork. your picture looks correct but i dont have that much distance between my clutch fork and my slave
#25
Heres a video of the slave in action after i pumped the pedal enough to get pressure. does it look like it has enough travel? and of course i cant drive the truck around on the first day of snow this season
http://vid1285.photobucket.com/album...psp18jnbbt.mp4
http://vid1285.photobucket.com/album...psp18jnbbt.mp4
mash your clutch too hard and you will probably blow the slave cylinder.
Top two shift forks were both pulled from L-52 equipped 1st Gen 4x4 trucks
bottom one is a L43 shift fork
a little more info on clutch forks from Big Mike of Marlin Crawler
Yes. All 1981 - 1995 clutch forks are interchangeable.
The main thing to note is that after 1980 Toyota ended adjustable clutches across the board in Hilux pickups as well as Land Cruisers. 1979-1980 L43 I believe had a return spring on the cast iron clutch fork which was only needed for the adjustability feature (today we can only adjust the placement of the pedal, but back in the day you used to be able to adjust where the clutch engagement point was along the clutch pedal stroke at the plunger for the clutch master cylinder independent of the clutch pedal's location). Starting in 1981 when Toyota released the 22R, they did away with this added adjustability and switched over to a stamped steel fork design that is still used today.
BigMike
The main thing to note is that after 1980 Toyota ended adjustable clutches across the board in Hilux pickups as well as Land Cruisers. 1979-1980 L43 I believe had a return spring on the cast iron clutch fork which was only needed for the adjustability feature (today we can only adjust the placement of the pedal, but back in the day you used to be able to adjust where the clutch engagement point was along the clutch pedal stroke at the plunger for the clutch master cylinder independent of the clutch pedal's location). Starting in 1981 when Toyota released the 22R, they did away with this added adjustability and switched over to a stamped steel fork design that is still used today.
BigMike
Last edited by dropzone; 11-15-2014 at 02:07 AM. Reason: random thought
#27
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Wow dropzone, great info.
What I would do is go to a toyota dealership with your vin and ask for the correct part number for the master cyl (you can also do it by internet) then you can order the correct one wether it's toyota or aftermarket or check the differences. If you want me to take a video of mine to help you I can, but I have a l45 4 speed (truck is also an 81)
What I would do is go to a toyota dealership with your vin and ask for the correct part number for the master cyl (you can also do it by internet) then you can order the correct one wether it's toyota or aftermarket or check the differences. If you want me to take a video of mine to help you I can, but I have a l45 4 speed (truck is also an 81)
#28
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Did the slave cylinder you bought have 2 rods in the box? The only thing off on yours is the rod. Toyota part number for 1981 RN48 chassis and L-52 gear box
slave is:
31470-35050
alternate:
31470-30260
I still believe you can remedy your problem by just moving the acorn nut to the correct side of your fork.
rod part# is:
31473-22010
M
slave is:
31470-35050
alternate:
31470-30260
I still believe you can remedy your problem by just moving the acorn nut to the correct side of your fork.
rod part# is:
31473-22010
M
Last edited by msane99; 11-15-2014 at 08:22 AM.
#29
Did the slave cylinder you bought have 2 rods in the box? The only thing off on yours is the rod. Toyota part number for 1981 RN48 chassis and L-52 gear box
slave is:
31470-35050
alternate:
31470-30260
I still believe you can remedy your problem by just moving the acorn nut to the correct side of your fork.
rod part# is:
31473-22010
M
slave is:
31470-35050
alternate:
31470-30260
I still believe you can remedy your problem by just moving the acorn nut to the correct side of your fork.
rod part# is:
31473-22010
M
#31
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yes there is something still off. Didn't you say your fluid is always dirty? whats contaminating it? Do you have the rod that came with it? Is it longer than the adjustable one? if you put the acorn on the side closest to slave and run it out most of the way, that in itself should have given you more movement then what you had?
for the price i guess i'd start over with a new slave and go from there.
@ Dropzone or Gillesde
Should he have a hole there in his fork or should there be a shallow cup/bowl the end of the piston rests in?
for the price i guess i'd start over with a new slave and go from there.
@ Dropzone or Gillesde
Should he have a hole there in his fork or should there be a shallow cup/bowl the end of the piston rests in?
#32
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bleed it again, if you haven't since you moved the acorn. Bleeding clutch is a little trickier than brakes.
2 man job one in truck one under truck.
small jar with brake fluid
small hose that fits tight on bleeder valve other end submerged in fluid in jar.
open bleeder valve
slowly press clutch pedal to floor
then slowly release while valve is open.
do this till no more bubbles whilst depressing pedal.
lock it down.
This is what it says to do in book, more or less.
Maybe???
2 man job one in truck one under truck.
small jar with brake fluid
small hose that fits tight on bleeder valve other end submerged in fluid in jar.
open bleeder valve
slowly press clutch pedal to floor
then slowly release while valve is open.
do this till no more bubbles whilst depressing pedal.
lock it down.
This is what it says to do in book, more or less.
Maybe???
Last edited by msane99; 11-19-2014 at 07:40 AM.
#33
As far as the hole in the end of the clutch fork - as pictured- i have run into both. I don't know if the middle clutch fork was modified by a previous owner.
it does seem like of your are using the threaded 79-80 push rod it would help as it would allow you to use a screw driver to hold it as you adjust the adjusting nUT in and out.
Edit- I would think that between this thread and your thread on pirate you would have got this by now.
Pull both the master and slave and bench bleed them both. RuN a piece of tubing from the slave bleeder screw to a can so it isn't blowing everywhere when you bleed the system. Clean up all that oil and crap off your bell housing so you have an a clean slate, sorry but it looks like the ExxonMobil Valdez under your truck. You might find you don't have the clutch line fully tight and it isn't leaking, therefore allowing air into the system.
it does seem like of your are using the threaded 79-80 push rod it would help as it would allow you to use a screw driver to hold it as you adjust the adjusting nUT in and out.
Edit- I would think that between this thread and your thread on pirate you would have got this by now.
Pull both the master and slave and bench bleed them both. RuN a piece of tubing from the slave bleeder screw to a can so it isn't blowing everywhere when you bleed the system. Clean up all that oil and crap off your bell housing so you have an a clean slate, sorry but it looks like the ExxonMobil Valdez under your truck. You might find you don't have the clutch line fully tight and it isn't leaking, therefore allowing air into the system.
Last edited by dropzone; 11-19-2014 at 08:18 AM. Reason: auto correct is stupid
#35
Finally got everything figured out! after adjusting the acorn nut on the slave cylinder out i had no clutch. The fork wouldnt move at all, So i adjusted it back in, replaced the worn clutch line with marlins stainless steel line and ran what felt like gallons of brake fluid through everything to clean out all of the dirt and whatever else was in the lines. I did multiple bleeds and the clutch finally has pressure. No slipping or anything. I guess the line was pulling air into the system like crazy. Thanks for everyone's input on this!
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