Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

1979 20R 2WD project.

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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 07:04 PM
  #121  
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From: Ofallon Missouri
You are rolling the dice taking off the rocker assembly if you are not planning on a head gasket. Those are the head bolts that hold it down.

Some have has success....others haven't. Personally..I have gotten away with it on my old 88. Just remember...if you take it off...its a gamble.

You may be better off leaving it alone.
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 07:14 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by HighLux
You are rolling the dice taking off the rocker assembly if you are not planning on a head gasket. Those are the head bolts that hold it down.

Some have has success....others haven't. Personally..I have gotten away with it on my old 88. Just remember...if you take it off...its a gamble.

You may be better off leaving it alone.
Right on. I definetly don't want more work to do. Lol!
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #123  
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HighLUX is right, when loosening those head bolts you will decompress your head gasket. When you torque the bolts back down you might not get a good seal on you head gasket. Swapping the HG isn't a big deal by the time you get the rockers and head bolts off. It's just a matter of unbolting the exhaust and disconnection everthing attached to the intake manifold and you can pull the head with the intake attached to it. If you're desmogged then you don't have to worry about that equipment getting in your way.
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #124  
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oh, and you have drain the coolant
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #125  
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Ok, so Im thinking I dont want to replace the head gasket if not needed so I will leave it alone for now.
Can the water pump pulley cause an engine to stall if the water pump is rusted and tight? I got to wondering if this could have been an issue with why it was dying..
Another note: When I pulled my plugs from after cranking it off and on for a month, they were covered in dryed black soot and after pulling the valve cover I wondered if it was because that was so dirty.
I did put an add on craigs to sell it but im sure no one will buy it so I will continue with it but man it does get discouraging. I know if one of you guys on here had it that it would be on the road already.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 05:45 PM
  #126  
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A rusted pulley would definitely rob the engine of power.....killing it might be a long shot on a fresh engine but on one that has been sitting....I could see that happening. Keep looking at stuff and fix it as you find it. Its going to be a long road either way.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #127  
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Water pump is next on the list. I sent my carb back to weber direct. They seemed to understand me, so I guess Ill see what happens tomorrow once they get it back thursday or friday. If they give me any junk then................
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:14 AM
  #128  
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Thumbs down

Man I just read all this about whats going on, and i'm upset for you. I'm also upset because I too a month ago bought a carb from webber direct on ebay, and now looked at mine and saw a sticker and not engraved "W". . I also noted the 2 piece adaptor plates I used and they do appear to just be chromed, and not machined aluminum. Where I really start to wonder and get upset is unlike your truck, I bolted mine up, and it starts right up, and runs like I always wanted it to. it pulls great and makes power. But i'm wondering now if soon i will start to show signs of the adaptor plates leaking.

And I'm not running a pressure regulator, I just took the supply line from the stock carb, put it on the FAKE webber, connected linkage, and vacuum advance, and its a screamer. Diddnt even play with mixers. Its crazy seeing your gas soaked gaskets, but I can't imagine the differences between our two carbs and all the issues your experiencing. Did you at least smell a hard core amount of gas fumes while it was running?

if it was weak running, i'd say a locked water pump can cause the added friction on the belt to slow the engine perhaps. Your plugs defiantly need to be cleaned. I pulled mine out after 300 miles with the old engine, and after dumping several cleaners in the fuel tank and down the carb, and they were terrible looking. Did you ever get the timing light? How does the distributor and spark look?

Last edited by crazytexan; Dec 16, 2012 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #129  
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Did you ever end up taking the rocker assembly off to clean it?

If you do, I think you'll want to undo them in order of tightening the head bolts, per the FSM? Also, with the age of that motor, you risk snapping a bolt or two, which would mean you'd be in fro a head gaskegt/bolt job anyway.
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:00 AM
  #130  
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Right now it's sitting. I sent the carb back in hopes for a refund. Kyle a weber direct said he would give me a refund as soon as he got. I did not clean the rockers but will put a new valve gasket on.
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #131  
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Also yes I did smell some gas coming through. The more I think about it, I think my water pump was robbing it.
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #132  
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Hey dude,
I am preping for a weber install, and my plan is to pull off the intake manafold, clean and install a new intake gasket.
That way you can be sure the intake gasket is sealing and not causing a vacumme leak. Plus the manafold will be clean of all the black carbon, giving a little boost.

I also plan on pulling off the timing cover and throwing on new gaskets, not that I want to.
If the weber guys screw you again, go through LCE preformance.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #133  
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Thanks. Yeah I'll go through them or redline. I've got new intake and manifold gaskets also.
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 03:52 PM
  #134  
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Apparently Weber is giving me my money back. Its not transferred yet but I need to give it a few days.
Also, Crazy texan in the future get you a one piece adapter from summit if you got concerns. Most have seemed to recommend a one piece and not the one it comes with.
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #135  
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Thankyou, I will forsure check that out if I start to notice funny business going on with my carb. Glad they are refunding you. It crossed my mind to try to do the same thing, But I've had this on my truck and driving with it for a few days now, and I feel like Mby I should have done some more research on this before making a purchase. Can anyone elaborate on a non genuine webber vs, the genuine?
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #136  
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There are some right ups on here and some actually had goodluck with those fake webers and some had to replace parts on it to get it tuned right but thats not what I paid for. I paid for the real deal. You can check for leaks on your adapter plates by spraying carb cleaner around then while your vehicle is cranked. If it stumbles then you probally have a leak.
I actually put my truck on craigs cause I been so frustrated but if I get a genuine weber Ill take it off. Go figure.LOL
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #137  
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this is what you guys need!

http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral...-p/1033028.htm
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