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Arizona Strip/Grand Canyon/Southern Utah/Central Nevada trip

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Old 05-17-2010, 01:47 PM
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Arizona Strip/Grand Canyon/Southern Utah/Central Nevada trip

So I just got back last night from a lengthy trip to the places listed in the title. The group met in Mesquite, Nevada for a great trip across northern AZ and then some improvisation that included Southern Utah and Central Nevada.

Stats
4 rigs to start:
Tacoma
FJ Cruiser
4Runner
70 Series Landcruiser

For me, depart Gilbert AZ on 5/7 and return 5/16. 2112 miles. Approximately 118 gallons of gas. (there are some discrepancies I just won't be able to resolve)

The plan: Travel across the Arizona strip checking out a number of "points" along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The folks in the FJC had to depart on 5/10 but they had previously done this trip and were invaluable in their previous knowledge of the trails, what went through and what did not, etc. They also made some small alterations from their earlier trip to spice it up a bit. On 5/13 the guys in the Taco had to depart so after that it was a "what do you feel like doing" plan between me and Jan in the LC. That ended up taking us back across So Utah and over to Central Nevada (near Austin, NV) to a hot spring. Then a butt-numbing 612 mile bomb home for me on 5/16.

To the pics:

Mesquite sunrise

Heading to Twin Point







A view off the side of the road to the first glimpses of the canyon

Sites along the way





Twin Point finally




Since Twin Point isn't technically in the GCNP we set up camp here for the night.

At this point while writing this, Tinypic took a crap on me so the pics are now from imageshack from here on. Let me know if you have any problems with any of it.

Jan's cool 70 series and camping spot.




One of our camp mates. I never got a good look at him before he got himself hidden up. Some sort of garter per Al, who got the best look.


Sunset light on the point


Finished off with BBQ chicken and potato salad.

Last edited by BLKNBLU; 05-17-2010 at 02:14 PM.
Old 05-17-2010, 01:48 PM
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The next day we were off to check out Waring Cabin. (I'll have to double check the history and info on this, it's all kind of starting to run together on me)



Heading through some tall pines to the Waring site.


Waring Cabin site












From here we went in search of a suitable campsite off the canyon rim. We experienced a fair bit of weather, especially wind right on the rim. We would get slight sprinkle of rain this night, but not enough to dampen the mood. This was a spaghetti and meatball with Cabernet night. Wrapped up with some Amaretto.


OK. Time to re-group and post more later. Only 5 more days to cover.

Last edited by BLKNBLU; 05-17-2010 at 02:17 PM.
Old 05-17-2010, 01:49 PM
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Day 3

We got up and at it to head over to Whitmore Canyon and overlook.









Bar 10 ranch is located in Whitmore Canyon. They are both a working ranch with approximately 600 head of cattle as well as a hotel. They cater to mainly river rafters that are driven in to board rafts or have been flown up from the river at the end of the trip. They also have reservations available to anyone not in a river trip depending on availability. Horse and ATV rentals are also available. The ranch is apparently serviced by a large spring in the area. They were very hospitable and gave us free showers. In their words it was a great, pleasant surprise to have unexpected visitors.


We lucked out and got there just as a group of tourists was headed out via plane.




What are you looking at?


The Whitmore Rapids overlook. We had lunch here and also emptied those gas cans on my roof. This route was supposed to be 430 miles with no chance at fuel. It turned out to be a bit less as we didn't hit every point that Gary and Paula (FJC folks) did in their previous trip. IIRC it was about 390-400. (EDIT: just learned it was more like 340)


We shot a few flora pics on our way back up to Bar 10 for our showers.







After Bar 10 Gary and Paula had to depart and we became a gang of 3 (trucks) and 4 friends. We departed Whitmore along a road that cherry stems through the Mount Logan Wilderness. It was very loose sharp volcanic rock on fairly steep pitches in some areas so there was really no stopping for pics as the focus was on keeping the rigs moving on the loose surface. We eventually camped at about 8000 ft in a Ponderosa Pine forest. EDIT: Forgot to mention, dinner was grilled Tilapia with salsa and fresh vegetables.

In the morning we awoke to this...

Last edited by BLKNBLU; 05-19-2010 at 01:35 AM.
Old 05-17-2010, 01:49 PM
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From here it was time to head over to Toroweap. Initially the trail we were on to get back to the main dirt road was pretty crapped up. There was a storm with heavy winds about a week or two before and lots of deadfall and snapped off trees blocked the road. We spent considerable time finding bypasses and clearing the trail, all while the snow continued to accumulate. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of this as we were moving along to get through there in a timely fashion. I'm sure the other guys have at least a couple pics that I will be sure to include when (if) I get them. In the end, the snow didn't continue for too long and we got off that trail in a little over 2 hours. Then it was pretty clear sailing to Toroweap.









Toroweap Overlook is often described as extremely remote. Well, when we got there, a Hyundai Elantra was parked at the side of the road where it started getting rough, and a Honda Accord or some such had actually managed to get to the campground. They did however have to settle for one of two sites that did not require a drop off of a decent rocky decline. I also wonder how it went for them getting back out as much of it was going to be back up hill. In any event, it was one place on the trip where we probably felt the least remote. I suppose remote and inaccessible are two different things. This didn't dampen our spirits or diminish the view in any way though.









Since we were there early we decided to not stay at Toroweap Campground. A quick map/nav conference and we decided to press on to SB point.
On the way the skies varied from this...


...to this


SB point is a twisty, turny, drive through close brush and trees for many miles. A constant dance of full left turn, full right turn, and so on and so on... I'm not sure a full size truck could do it or at the least 3 point turn after 3 point turn. Yuck. In the end, the drive was totally worth it. SB point is a place that can't be captured on film. You need 3 or 4 pics just to get it all. Probably a 270 degree view.

Michaels Tacoma










As we considered where to set up camp, it dawned on us (Michael) that this spot was in fact within the NPS boundaries where overnight camping and fires are prohibited. It's 99% likely we could have just done our own thing and gotten away with it, but that's the kind of crap that gives 4WD a bad name. So, it was back throught the twisty, turny road to BLM land where we found a nice spot not too much further down the road. The upside was that we had that twisty drive behind us for the next morning.

EDIT: I keep forgetting about dinner. Red beans and rice with smoked sausage. Beer. mmmmm

Last edited by BLKNBLU; 05-18-2010 at 12:38 PM.
Old 05-17-2010, 01:49 PM
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From here it was time to depart the Grand Canyon area. We headed for Fredonia/Kanab to refuel and resupply food/ice. We had been worried about fuel range as Gary and Paula had burned 430 miles on their previous trip. That, however, had included some dead ends that had to be backtracked and a couple of points that we decided to save for future trips. In the end we were in decent shape when we got to Fredonia and decided to venture the extra 7 or 8 miles up to Kanab to get some better choices on our purchases. From here it was a few more paved miles to another forest road that would take us over to the Vermillion Cliffs NM. Jan is a geologist and was interested in seeing if we could get to an area called "The Wave" (google it, very cool) Hiking there requires a permit that is doled out by lottery but occasionally a person/group can walk up and get in if there is availability. We had already decided to visit a seperate area called White Pockets as a plan B. Al and Michael had been there before and described it as a "poor cousin" to the wave. By the time we had traveled across the FS road to House Rock road where it was decision time, the weather had deteriorated enough for us to decide on White Pockets, the sure thing. I can only say WOW. If The Wave is better than White Pockets, I still have a real treat ahead of me. I'm going to OD on pics of rocks now so please indulge me. It was even better there and I have many more if you're interested. Just let me know. Getting up to the area went through some deep soft sand and was one of the few places that 4WD was really required. One pic near a corral shows it but really doesn't do it justice. The whole time i was in first or second gear with the rpm's way up there.

Exiting the GC area and heading back to civilization.




Heading over to the Vermillion Cliffs on Winter Road. (FS road)




In the sand.


The "White Pockets". Geology porn according to Jan.














Mmmmm. Bacon.










As we headed out of the NM we looked for a good place to camp. It was difficult as vehicles need to stay strictly on roads in the National Monument. Just as we were about to give up and see what we could find out on House Rock Rd. we ran across this great little spot with cool rock formations for neighbors. As we pulled in it promptly dropped a 5 minute hail storm on us. That melted off quickly though and we were able to set up one of our better camps. Ice on the tent in the morning again though. Spaghetti and meatballs again for dinner as Al had made waaay too much for the first night. We had all taken turns planning a dinner for everyone in the group so we each only had to cook once or twice. It worked out very nicely.

Last edited by BLKNBLU; 05-19-2010 at 01:41 AM.
Old 05-17-2010, 04:49 PM
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MAN!! I am jealous! I grew doing trips like that!! Great pics!!!
Old 05-18-2010, 06:58 AM
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WOW that is amazing I would love to do a trip like that. too bad I live in the "free state" where there is no public land use. I guess i got to travel west
what was the approx cost?
Old 05-18-2010, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobzombie
what was the approx cost?
I came up with $508.09 with probably a few odds and ends here and there that I missed. Gas was $365.xx and food/drink/ice/supplies 142.xx. I didn't count stuff like the cool BLM map I bought along the way since I didn't "need" it. More of a souvenir. I'll also have to do an oil/filter and air filter sooner due to the 2000+ miles and dusty conditions that came faster than usual. But you get the idea. Absolutely $0 for camping or staying anywhere.

Thanks for the props guys.
Mike
Old 05-18-2010, 10:22 AM
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Wow, those are some amazing pic's...Looks like a great trip!!
Old 05-18-2010, 10:23 AM
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nice.. Im gonna miss the awesome southwest trails...
Old 05-18-2010, 10:29 AM
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Really cool trip report. Makes waitin' for our next trip that much harder.
Old 05-18-2010, 12:10 PM
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Thanks again everyone for the kind words.

New stuff on post #4.
Old 05-18-2010, 12:18 PM
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absolutely breath taking!!! I can't imagine what it would have been like being there...Someday I'll make it out west again!
Old 05-18-2010, 12:53 PM
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Wow! That looks like a bunch of fun! Those pictures are amazing, I bet it was unreal in person, I wanna take a trip like this some day, thanks for sharing!
Old 05-18-2010, 01:03 PM
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Was there some difficult terrain to conquer? it seams that most are just dirt trails?

was this by choice?
I dont have a clue what those areas are like, I imagine there is plenty of hard stuff to crawl over but do you have to stick to the roads?
Old 05-18-2010, 01:15 PM
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Absolutely amazing pictures!! I wish I had come along. Very very cool.
Old 05-18-2010, 06:40 PM
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BLU....!

I Always enjoy your trips~n~pics! Awesome!

I love what you have done with your 1st Gen!

I remember when it was just a Baby!....

Our trip in the Sierra Ancha.....








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Old 05-18-2010, 07:15 PM
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New stuff in post #5

Originally Posted by Bobzombie
Was there some difficult terrain to conquer? it seams that most are just dirt trails?

was this by choice?
I dont have a clue what those areas are like, I imagine there is plenty of hard stuff to crawl over but do you have to stick to the roads?
Yes. Much of this could be done in a car and probably the vast majority in a pre-runner with rear locker. I ran almost all of this in 2WD. There are a couple of roads that run across the strip E-W. Those are the really smooth roads you see and any car could travel them. We were able to travel at 35-45 miles per hour safely on these portions. From here, you had to travel south to a point of interest and then backtrack (for the most part) We found a few places to cut across. These roads were rough-ish with a few spots of badly washed out portions that could most likely be done in a pre runner. There were just a few spots, namely the loose steep volcanic rock/gravel atop stone on the Mount Logan Wilderness stem road and the deep sand atop the Vermillion Cliffs that required 4WD. This trip was more about the expedition than the hardest wheeling possible. Not really a concious choice, but the roads are what and where they are.



Originally Posted by Scenic WonderRunner
BLU....!

I Always enjoy your trips~n~pics! Awesome!

I love what you have done with your 1st Gen!
Thanks for the memories and the props Mark.
Old 05-18-2010, 08:41 PM
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Wonderful, absolutely wonderful!!

Note to self: by more Jerry cans. get new snorkel tip with the spinner thingy in it for dust and heavy particulate...
Old 05-18-2010, 10:17 PM
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A few more ...

Originally Posted by BLKNBLU
I came up with $508.09 with probably a few odds and ends here and there that I missed. Gas was $365.xx and food/drink/ice/supplies 142.xx. I didn't count stuff like the cool BLM map I bought along the way since I didn't "need" it. More of a souvenir. I'll also have to do an oil/filter and air filter sooner due to the 2000+ miles and dusty conditions that came faster than usual. But you get the idea. Absolutely $0 for camping or staying anywhere.

Thanks for the props guys.
Mike
Here's a few more photos for your album. White Pocket was awesome! The drive down the snowy mountain was memorable (for a lot of reasons!)
Attached Thumbnails Arizona Strip/Grand Canyon/Southern Utah/Central Nevada trip-deadfalls.jpg   Arizona Strip/Grand Canyon/Southern Utah/Central Nevada trip-kanab-plateau.jpg   Arizona Strip/Grand Canyon/Southern Utah/Central Nevada trip-toroweap.jpg  


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