Amir904

I am thinking of the following. I am not planning on hooking up any rear speakers, just so my sound stage is up front, and I hope to get natural ambience.

Diamond Audio D5-600.2 amp
Diamond Audio D5-600.1 amp
Diamond Audio D661 s front speakers
Diamond Audio D610D4 subwoofer (ported enclosure, 44" port)
Lightning Audio Storm series 1/0 power wire , 18 ft
Lightning Audio 4 guage ground wire .....5 ft
Stinger HPM series 4 ga power wire ......6 ft
Stinger 1/0 ring terminals
Stinger 4 ga ring terminals
Stinger Bullet series interconnect 17 ft
Stinger Bullet series interconnect 12 ft
Stinger 1/0 distribution block
Rockford Fosgate battery terminals ( 2 )
Stinger Custom Pro Series Fuse Holder (1/0 ga)
Dual layer Dynamat Extreme on front doors.

Anyone know where to get these items for the best price, I was thinking cardomain.com. I havent really bought stereo stuff online before.

RLJ3RD

It sounds nice, pics would be even nicer!

Amir904

I havent installed it yet, I havent even bought the stuff yet. I am just running it by you guys for any comments or suggestions, so let 'em rip!

chuckd

Rather than forgoing rear speakers, why not just get a HU that has built in front/ rear/ l/r staging? That way you can turn it off when people are in the back seat.

Amir904

well i might just use the rear speakers as rear fill from the crossovers for the fronts.

im trying to figure out what size fuse i need, according to my calculations there should be a 160A draw max. so a 200A fuse should suffice. the amps are:
class a/b 600x2 50% efficiency
class d 600x1 85% efficiency

lee

hookedontronics.com has awesome deals

Bumpin' Yota

Go get yourself a 150amp ANL. You will not blow it by your amp's draw alone. The only why you'd blow the 150 is if you severely shorted out the power wire after the fuse.

Amir904

According to my calculations, I would have needed a 200A ANL. Even the manual suggests a 90A and 80A fuse by each of those. Am I wrong?

Bumpin' Yota

Considering one of those amps is pushing mids and highs, it won't come anywhere close to a maximal draw and the bass amp only will when you REALLY push it to the point of massive distortion. This is why a 150 anl is fine. I very very very much doubt you'd ever blow it. The only reason to fuse a line is to protect it and your car should it for some reason short to ground.

If for whatever reason the 150 did blow, you could always buy a 200. No damage would be done. The big thing is that the line is just fused to protect the system.

Also remember that a fuse must pass 2x it's rating for 5 seconds before they blow - on average.

kylerensmeyer

diamond audio = delicious!!! just bought a D5 300.4 its rated at 37.5 watts @ 4 ohms, but im pretty sure its doing more than that. today i finished putting my polk speakers in the back doors and amped them. didnt bother making the amp look pretty or anything since it will be moving to a nice little house in a couple of days, but ill cross that bridge when it comes... so far im definitely liking this amp!

Amir904

kyle, i bought a D5 300.4 too. im thinking just use the 2 channels for the highs, then the other two, bridged to the 12" sealed sub. and for the rear fill, ill use the "rear fill" from the D661s crossovers. what do you think? btw, where did you mount yours?

i gave up on the D5 600.1 and 600.2, i dont want to mount 2 amps in 2 different locations, id rather just use one and save space.