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ideas for system for 92 yota regular cab?

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Old 10-23-2007, 12:20 PM
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Red face ideas for system for 92 yota regular cab?

I would like to install a sound system in my regular cab pickup but can not find the best way to get away from the lil 4" speakers.. Any ideas? Is there a way to put a sub in the truck anywhere and what about speakers in the doors? If anyone has ever done this PLZ help!!
Old 10-23-2007, 02:40 PM
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I don't know about the 92s but in my old 87 there was just room enough for a couple of those small 6x9 boxes on the floor behind the seat.
Several members here have put speakers in the doors, they should chime in sooner or later, "Osiris" I think has a thread here on his install in a 4runner that has a lot of good info...
you can also replace the kick panels with a speaker mount set [commercially available] but personally it would cost me too much foot room...
Old 10-23-2007, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonszion
I would like to install a sound system in my regular cab pickup but can not find the best way to get away from the lil 4" speakers.. Any ideas? Is there a way to put a sub in the truck anywhere and what about speakers in the doors? If anyone has ever done this PLZ help!!
Wattage! It can make a 4'' roar. Other than that. Cut new holes. Find a location in your door that will clear the window's when down and you will be fine. Install some 8'' subs in truck boxes behind the seat. Insert music here....
Old 10-23-2007, 07:39 PM
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thx guys!!! Im looking now into putting 6.5"s in the doors and maybe a 8 or 10 behind the seats.... I think this mgiht work...
Old 11-06-2007, 03:28 PM
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Here was my '91:
I did 2 8" subs and 2 amps behind the seat. Then I put 6.5 mids in the bottom of the door with a tweeter mounted in the kick panel (the angled part pointed toward you) with the crossovers behind the kick panels, then put 4" 2 way mids in the dash.

I used Polk Audio subs (.3 cubic feet per) MB Quart shallow 6.5" component mids, and Infinity 4" reference mids in the dash. I used 2 Planet Audio 300 Watt amps to run it all.

My '85 is a lot more powerful, but a little more work. I'll get some pictures up in a few weeks when it's all finished.
Old 11-17-2007, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmydean
Here was my '91:
I did 2 8" subs and 2 amps behind the seat. Then I put 6.5 mids in the bottom of the door with a tweeter mounted in the kick panel (the angled part pointed toward you) with the crossovers behind the kick panels, then put 4" 2 way mids in the dash.

I used Polk Audio subs (.3 cubic feet per) MB Quart shallow 6.5" component mids, and Infinity 4" reference mids in the dash. I used 2 Planet Audio 300 Watt amps to run it all.

My '85 is a lot more powerful, but a little more work. I'll get some pictures up in a few weeks when it's all finished.
this guy has the best setup so far but....
I would do 5 1/2s in the doors with tweeters in the A-pilar and 1 10" sub. that's all you need....tunning is every thing! I have yet to build up my system more, I still have the 4" speakers with 1 10'' sub and it sounds better than most $1000 systems because I know how to tune
Old 11-19-2007, 05:47 AM
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I'm just building my custom door panels with speakers now I'll be putting up a tech article on it soon however when you remove the door skins there is a large cut-out in the front lower corner that allows for a speaker but you only have about 1" of usable depth from the frame because of the window track. You'd have to build it out a bit unless you had some kind of shallow mount speaker. If you mount the tweet in the A-pillar you might have some sound stageing issues but you'd only really notice it if you were a serious audiophile... to attenuate this when you hook them up run the door speakers as mid-bass, the factory position 4" as mid-highs, and the tweets for the highs and this will reduce the negative staging effects, keep the tweets as low on the a-pillar as you can to keep them as far away as posible and this will help too...
Old 11-20-2007, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by aviator
I'm just building my custom door panels with speakers now I'll be putting up a tech article on it soon however when you remove the door skins there is a large cut-out in the front lower corner that allows for a speaker but you only have about 1" of usable depth from the frame because of the window track. You'd have to build it out a bit unless you had some kind of shallow mount speaker. If you mount the tweet in the A-pillar you might have some sound stageing issues but you'd only really notice it if you were a serious audiophile... to attenuate this when you hook them up run the door speakers as mid-bass, the factory position 4" as mid-highs, and the tweets for the highs and this will reduce the negative staging effects, keep the tweets as low on the a-pillar as you can to keep them as far away as posible and this will help too...
I agree with you about not putting the tweeters to high on the A pilar, but you want them high enough so you're able to point it at the pasnager (pasnager side pointed at the driver). if build a door pod point the speaker toward the listener (driver side speaker toward the driver, etc.) that's going to get you the best staging (for a truck anyway). speakers in the stock location in older yota trucks up the staging. I would get a component set that has a bi-wirable X-over. I would also get 4 ch amp. this is so that the woofers and the tweeters both have 'gain' control that allows you to fine tune the speakers. I would get 6 1/4-6 1/2'' woofers(I retract my above statement of getting 5 1/4'') so that you have good mid-bass. human hearing picks up the mid-bass freq. range more any other freq. so it is arguely(sp?) the most important range.
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