GreenYoda

I will need to notch the front part of my frame on my 95 4runner to get the coil springs w/solid front axle to sit level with the rear.

what would be stronger, im thinking the latter (even though more work)

using 2x4, 0.120 wall like this



or use 3/16" plate and make plates that extend all the way down the frame, similar to this

Dras16

I am a little confused. Are your front coil springs too short? Why not just get some taller springs? Or just add a little to your frame and not worry about notching it at all. It would be plenty strong that way. Those pictures are more for c-notching the frame for lowering trucks with airbags and hydraulics so that it can go lower.

GreenYoda

the front coils are 22" tall, the rear's are 20" tall

as it sits right now, the frame in the front is 23" off the ground where the springs will mount, and the rear part of the frame sits 27" tall.

the spring perches on the axle will end up being directly under the frame, so in order for them to sit level with the rear, I need them to be mounted higher up on the frame.



essentially, the springs will sit to tall in the front, id order taller rear springs, but im trying to keep the lift at 8-10" not 14"-15"

sebastianholmes

well you could just get some shorter springs?

GreenYoda

yes, that WOULD solve it, but then the rear would flex more than the front... and the more flex the better.

this is is not my DD, and mostly just a trail rig

Dras16

OK that makes sense now. Another question I have is... is that going to interfere with your motor mounts?

E-ROC

to answer your main ? go with plating the frame all the way for max strength. thats my opinion. as far as the purpose for doing this your biggest achievment will be the gain in uptravel. my only advice (if you want it) will be to adjust your bumps to prevent axle/oil pan meetings. other than that keep on keepin on! i like where your going.

GreenYoda

yes, motor mounts will have to be redone, not sure exactly what im going to do about it, probably just hack up and modify the stock mounts (not sure about solid motor mounts, would be easier, but probably more of a harsh ride and noisier)

:werd: on the bump stops, I dont want to smash the oil pan into the crank and ruin my freshly rebuilt 3.slow.

and yea, I am going to plate all the way down, found an interesting article about this on another forum, should be able to make it equally strong as stock (hopefully stronger)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4597148

hopefully within the next few months ill at least have the front lifted

next im gonna have to start thinking about a hi-steer setup (obviously not store bought)

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

hydro steering

what is your frame height goal?

GreenYoda

yea, ive been thinking of hyrdo steering, dont know much about it yet.

as far as frame height, not sure what it will be, it is what it is I suppose, I just want it to flex a ton, and look pretty level front to rear.

E-ROC

i got the bomb proof motor/t-case mounts and they are strong and safe but i do get alot of vibration now. enough to skip my cd player so i have to turn to the ipod while the truck is running. you ever hear kenny chesney stutter during a song? sit in my truck and you will! lol

cruiserjim

cut the reinforcement plate into a sort of diamond shape this is stronger with less weakening of the metal

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

^^isn't thAt referred to as a 'fish' plate?

cruiserjim

yes it is.

peow130

Best bet is to just make a new set of front frame horns. C-notching would work, but a new set of frame horns that rises up above the original would be cleaner, give you more clearance, etc etc.

GreenYoda

Got my plates almost finished today, just need to clean up the edges a bit more. Just have to go measure the frame width and see if I can buy some flat stock thats the right size

E-ROC

anymore done yet?

GreenYoda

I need to start cutting the suspension off, but my boss has projects in the shop right now, he blew the trans in his sand rail, got it back from the shop the other day, so now we just gotta install it, then load it into his toy hauler...

only bad part of using the shop at work, boss's projects come first, and ˟˟˟˟ either has to be tucked out of the way, or drivable incase we have one of our work trucks go down.

E-ROC

been there before