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Old 07-16-2004, 09:05 AM
  #21  
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I'm not sure on this, 'cause I don't have mine working yet, but I imagine you'd also want a fuse to protect your compressor, and a flow through chuck so the compressor would still vent air when the chuck is not on your tire.

I've not heard anyone say this, but this product seems to imply it:
http://www.extremeoutback.com/index....8.19985&pid=43

Edit: Just saw Midiwalls solution... much nicer!!!!!!

Last edited by Scottiac; 07-16-2004 at 09:06 AM.
Old 07-16-2004, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottiac
Edit: Just saw Midiwalls solution... much nicer!!!!!!
Thanks, but I just modified it 'cause you bring up a good point with protecting the compressor.

I amended my idea with moving to an open chuck unless he's going to run a pressure switch.


Thanks for bringing that up!
Old 07-16-2004, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by midiwall
Electrically, you can certainly do it with only a switch triggering a relay that's switching power to the compressor.

On the air side, you have some more purchases to make.. .

Given that you're in Humidville USA, I' REALLY suggest running a watertrap. If you don't, you're basically pumping water into your tires. You can get them for under $20 (don't forget the mounting ring!) at a Home Depot or Lowe's.

You'll also want a good air gauge, a "_OPEN_ locking tire chuck" (*see below), and pick up a couple of those coiled yellow air hoses when you get your watertrap. You'll need miscellaneous air fittings and the quick disconnects for the ends as well.

And, you may want an easy-to-get-to accessory tap mounted on the bumper for the air. That's generally just a piece of 1/4" steel bent up and drilled to accept a quick disconnect fitting. That'll stay there all the time, then when you need air, flip the switch in the cab, and plug into the fitting.

Now, to make it easier on you... You can run a manifold on the compressor, then attach a pressure switch into one port and your air hose into another. The pressure switch gets wired such that it kills the power to the compressor when the pressure comes up to 120psi or so. With the quick disco on the bumper, that will let you just plug in to the disco with your air line and the compressor will start. When you disconnect the line, the disco fitting will block the airflow, the pressure will come up, trigger the pressure switch and the compressor will shut down.


* - you need the open chuck in order to protect the compressor. If you run a closed chuck (i.e., no air flow unless it's on the tire) then the compressor will keep running and something going to give. If you run a pressure switch, then you can run an closed chuck.


Have fun!
Thanks for the info, it's much appreciated!! I knew I needed stuff for the air side, except for the watertrap. I haven't heard of that. And yeah, the humidity here at times can be really bad. Maybe I'll just go ahead and get a small 2 to 3 gallon tank, since an arb locker will be a future purchase. Then I'll just get the Viair hookup kit with the pressure gauge and switch and some fittings. I imagine I can run the watertrap from the compressor line to the tank, right? I was planning on the accessory tap on the bumper. I saw that on WATRD's truck.
Old 07-25-2004, 08:48 AM
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I've run OBA with my front bumper as a tank for many years. Works well and a tank is a good upgrade to an OBA system, unless you have a CO2 system or a compressor that is large enough to fill tires rapidly (like a good York A/C setup). Why? Because the tank lets the compressor build up pressure while you are doing things like moving from tire to tire or checking the tire pressure or just getting ready to air up. I find my ~2 gallon bumper shaves about 1 minute off of my air up time. I'll be adding a 2.5 gallon tank to supplement the capacity. Also, the tank is handy for rapidy upping a very low tire or seating a bead. And with an ARB locker, the tank keeps the compressor from cycling on and off so much.
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