Absolute cheapest way for 3" lift?
#1
Absolute cheapest way for 3" lift?
I am looking for the absolute cheapest way possible to lift my 99 tacoma 4x4 3" until I can afford a nice coilover or full 4-6" suspension kit. Is the cornfed spacer lift the cheapest way? its over $300 for the entire kit (the POS basic fabtech kit is only like 50-80 bucks more)
anywho, if this is my cheapest option ill go with it, just want to make sure.
thanks
anywho, if this is my cheapest option ill go with it, just want to make sure.
thanks
#2
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If you want to fit big rubber cheap, add a little bodylift and a lot of tinsnips/grinder/sawzall.
I see no point in buying a lift now and then buying another one again soon.
Just wait for more cash and get the one you want.
I see no point in buying a lift now and then buying another one again soon.
Just wait for more cash and get the one you want.
#3
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
If you want to fit big rubber cheap, add a little bodylift and a lot of tinsnips/grinder/sawzall.
I see no point in buying a lift now and then buying another one again soon.
Just wait for more cash and get the one you want.
I see no point in buying a lift now and then buying another one again soon.
Just wait for more cash and get the one you want.
Buy once a little later and you won't have to buy twice...
#4
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daystar has a 2.5" lift kit for $242
http://www.4by4connection.com/toytac212.html
that and some light trimming or a mild body lift should do the trick
http://www.4by4connection.com/toytac212.html
that and some light trimming or a mild body lift should do the trick
#6
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I'm still trying to figure out why on earth you would take a grinder/sawzall/tinsnips to your rig to fit bigger tires. If you that serious about wheeling that you HAVE to have bigger tires just get a bigger lift....I would stay with smaller tires if my other option was to grind sheetmetal on my rig.
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Originally Posted by UKMyers
I'm still trying to figure out why on earth you would take a grinder/sawzall/tinsnips to your rig to fit bigger tires. If you that serious about wheeling that you HAVE to have bigger tires just get a bigger lift....I would stay with smaller tires if my other option was to grind sheetmetal on my rig.
if you can fit these tires without a lift by just cutting or whatever, then you only raise your COG by 2"
biggest tire with least lift is my policy
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#8
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How are those daystar kits? I know most people prefer the cornfed spacers, but is there any problems with the daystar. The nice thing about daystar is that you get a set of bushings for the swarbars etc. That's not a bad price for the package. I am wondering if anybody had heard of bad experiences with these kind of lifts.
Arjan
Arjan
#9
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You can always do a Roger Brown Body lift on the cheap: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
Something like $150 total...little more to do a 3inch instead of a 2inch, but definitely doable. Someone just did a 3incher a couple weeks ago:https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...5&page=1&pp=25
Something like $150 total...little more to do a 3inch instead of a 2inch, but definitely doable. Someone just did a 3incher a couple weeks ago:https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...5&page=1&pp=25
#10
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i use a set of daystar lift shackles on my 4runner. they are plenty beefy and so far i havent had any problems. also, the plating they put on the shackles has held up so far after almost 2 years.
#11
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As for my lift less, it is because not all of us want to be big and bad.
So the reply is 1" versus 2" is not much. That is what math says, but is is the difference between 31's and 33's.
The most aggressive fender trimming I have seen anyone here undertake is Steve and it looks really clean.
The only thing trimmed on mine is the inner liner and some steel that you could not pick out unless you were looking for it.
Low and wide may not cut it at the mall, but it works for me.
So the reply is 1" versus 2" is not much. That is what math says, but is is the difference between 31's and 33's.
The most aggressive fender trimming I have seen anyone here undertake is Steve and it looks really clean.
The only thing trimmed on mine is the inner liner and some steel that you could not pick out unless you were looking for it.
Low and wide may not cut it at the mall, but it works for me.
#12
3" RB body lift
If you want the cheapest 3" you can get, do a RB body lift, but why pay twice if you are going to do more later. I'd wait and do the suspension lift first, then the body lift.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#14
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I just put a 2" body lift in my '93 for a grand total of $40 CDN! I went to a plastics supply place and had them cut me some 2" tall by 2.75dia. UHMW blocks. Cost me $34 bucks. Took 'em home and drilled some 7/16" holes in them and that was that. Cost me $6 for enough grade 8 hardware to do the cab and box. $40 bucks canadian so that would be less south of the border.
I also took a jigsaw and trimmed off 1.25" off all my fenders. It wasn't really necessary to fit my 33's but I was just to impatient to wait until the lift was in. I bought some trim that slips over the edges. The trim and a BFH on the pinch seam was enough to get me by on the road for a couple of days. Downside? I no longer have anything to attach flares to easily without spending a fortune on bushwackers.
I also took a jigsaw and trimmed off 1.25" off all my fenders. It wasn't really necessary to fit my 33's but I was just to impatient to wait until the lift was in. I bought some trim that slips over the edges. The trim and a BFH on the pinch seam was enough to get me by on the road for a couple of days. Downside? I no longer have anything to attach flares to easily without spending a fortune on bushwackers.
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That idea crossed my head before. I was thinking of buying a piece of urythane 3" wide, 2" high and a couple feet long. Then I was thinking of using a holesaw with the diameter of the block you want. Anybody else see a problem with this?
#16
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Originally Posted by arjan
That idea crossed my head before. I was thinking of buying a piece of urythane 3" wide, 2" high and a couple feet long. Then I was thinking of using a holesaw with the diameter of the block you want. Anybody else see a problem with this?
I would save yourself a bunch of work and just have someone else do it. 2.75" dia blocks are about the max that you can fit in the mounts w/o them being too wide (on my 93 anyway). And you will want to make sure that it is UHMW and not something else. For the couple of bucks the plastics supply store will charge for cutting them to length for you it will be more then worth saving your time. You can always drill the bolt holes yourself as I did.
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