ProjectMcFly

Well, it was worth a shot

93YotaGuy

Looks fine on my end. I'll keep that in mind though for those who do not have a widescreen. Sorry!

93YotaGuy

I received my injectors back from whichhunter the other day. I went straight to work and decided to paint my plenum after it was sandblasted. Here is how it turned out. Not too bad for a quick 10 min masking.


Progress!



Done!




Now the not so easy part. After i got it started I received a code 12 "RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED"

I set the timing a bit after getting it started and now I am throwing a code 51 for the TPS.

My question is, can a code 51 turn into a 12 due to the fact that the code 51 and the TPS being out of wack may have caused it to not start which would send the wrong information the the ECU.

At one point it was throwing out both codes although I think I have worked through the code 12 since it does not seem to be doing it now. I have read the many posts on how to adjust the TPS and have even printed out the process but just cant seem to get it to work well with the ohm meter. Previously, when I had a TPS issue in my other truck I gave up and took it to the dealer. The tech there told me that the TPS is normally adjusted through touch and an ohm meter is not needed. I am pretty sure I have gone through all the areas to where it can be adjusted while each time pulling the battery cable between each adjustment.

I need some guidance in helping me out with this issue. tomorrow I plan to head to the junkyard to pick up another TPS but part of me is thinking that the same thing is going to happen and the problem lies elsewhere.

Your help would be greatly appreciated!

THANK YOU!

93YotaGuy

UPDATE!

Last night I couldn't get the TPS set so I went down to the junkyard and picked up a new throttle body with the tps already fixed in place and set. That turned out to be a waste cause it didn't fix the problem.

So now i'm throwing a code 13 and 51. Sometimes the 13 goes away and it is just 51. I did a little research on the 13 and found that it relates to the crankshaft position signal that comes from the distributor. If that is out of wack then it would make sense as to why the air/fuel ratio would be incorrect and would cause the code 51. Does this make sense or am I just trying too hard to diagnose what is going on? I tried to just switch the sending unit inside the distributor but it didn't make a difference. While I was doing that I noticed some broken wire hanging down near the frame. I began to tear it apart and this is what I found.




Looks like it may have caught fire or smoked up at one point.




The wires and plugs above connect to the alternator which in turn I think plug into the igniter coil.

I took some pictures of what I thought may be the wire on my other truck and this is what I think may be the same wire.




The picture above didn't come out too well but it basically comes from the same wiring harness and leads to the side of the block to act as a ground. Could this be the culprit to the code 13? The wiring diagram below shows the igniter grounding but it doesn't point out where. I would assume it would ground right by the igniter and not travel through the alternator to reach the ground near the block.



Anyone have any idea or insight on what the torn up wire may have served a purpose for? Could this be the cause of my problems? Please help! Thank you!

91diesel

Hard to say without looking at it, but the first thing I'd do is make/run some really good engine to frame grounds, body to frame grounds, and body to engine grounds. This will ensure that grounding is not your problem and even the factory set up can benefit from better grounding. It might even fix your problem.

93YotaGuy

I think additional grounding is a good idea and something I will do. However, I need to know if the code 13 is maybe lacking a ground. If I just start adding random grounds throughout the block I think I'll just be getting my hopes up for nothing. Now if there is a ground for the crankshaft position signal that I am missing I'll ground my stuff out ALL DAY!

I just need to know where that is.

I've continued this code 13 topic in the tech section for additional help. If you or anyone would like to put in their two cents in regard to the code I would appreciate it. Thanks for helping!

The link for the topic is as follows: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...signal-231918/

93YotaGuy

Problem solved! The wire that was all burned up was in fact the ground and was connected to the crankshaft sensor through the igniter. I went to my local junkyard, picked up a new harness for about 10 bucks, and it fired right up with no code!

I have been driving it around for a couple days now and it just gave me a code 21. I have a new Denso OEM O2 sensor on order.

I picked this up on the way home the other day. In my 4x4 I have a magnaflow setup and was looking for something a little quieter for the pickup. I picked up the muffler for about 70 and the cat for about 80. Luckily there is a wholesale muffler shop that sells to the public if you put on the exhaust yourself. Score for me!

Its a 40 series Delta flow - I chose the Delta cause it supposed to be a little quieter than the others. We'll see!





I decided to go 2 1/4 inch all the way through. Now I just have to find a header and i'll be good to go! I have been trying to find some through craigslist but have not had any luck yet. I would much rather purchase a used one as opposed to a brand new one for $400!

If anyone has a header for sale i'll buy it! Just as long as its not a pacesetter.

ROCK HOUND

125 bucks is a crazy good deal. And considering you've spent more on gas driving around buying the parts to fix it than on the part themselves = DUH WINNING!

cred92

Sooo hows it comin have you got it running right and not throwing any more codes. Its lookin good, love the motor same thing as my 92 reg cab 4x4. keep us updated.

93YotaGuy

I've been fighting with it for a little over 2 weeks now and today I finally figured it out.Let me start with what I have been up to.

I finally was able to put on the exhaust. After waiting for the right gaskets from LC Engineering and finding a header I headed to a friend of a friends local exhaust shop. I was able to score a Thorley header from the junkyard and after doing a little research I discovered that with slight modification I could make it fit my 2wd. When we pulled the old exhaust off and tried to put the header in it would not fit. The guy doing the exhaust had to modify it quite a bit and re-weld the 2 header tubes that connect to the bottom flange. Overall the guy did a decent job with the bending but the welds were horrid! I have quite a few leaks here and there and I think I have one coming out of the manifold. I will post pictures later since I don't have my camera now.

In the next few weeks I am going to hope to get lucky and pick up a used Lc or downey 2wd header. If not I will have to purchase a new one from LC for $400!

After dealing with that mess I gained a little power but the truck was still bogging down quite a bit when I would firmly press down on the gas.

I still wasn't able to set the timing and was throwing a code 51 when I would hit the gas but not at idle so I knew something was off. After researching for hours it finally dawned on me that my chain may be off a tooth. I pulled the timing cover off and there it was...

THE CAM WAS OFF A TOOTH!!!!

I adjusted it to spec, fired it up, and she ran PERFECT! CODES GONE!

I just got back from taking her out for a spin and she SCREAMS!

The new exhaust is sweet, but after figuring out the timing issue she runs like she is brand new. I'm headed to Autozone now to change the oil and get any gunk out that is in there now that I have her running well. I'll post up some pics of the exhaust tomorrow. If anyone has a 2wd header laying around I'd be more than happy to buy it! :-D

93YotaGuy

Here are some pictures of the exhaust. Like I mentioned before the welds weren't that great and he bent the header a little too much.




Here is a side view of where the header is bent. The picture is taken from the drivers side front wheel.



[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/cwlos17/91%20pickup%20build/100_0224.jpg[/IMG




I also went down and did the emissions test today. She passed with flying colors. Now that I have her running really well the next step is body work and paint.

Then I'll add some rims. I'm thinking about putting 18's with low profile tires. Something that will look along the lines of this.



the picture doesn't do it any justice but I have seen quite a few 2wd's with 18's and they look really good.

Any criticism or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated!

cred92

Ive never cared about headers really all the old guys at work with classic cars gto, ss chevelle. all say they dont like headers that they leak n what not idk never tried one. Your exhaust looks sweat I wish i had some spare change laying around that i could put an exhaust on like that mines stock minus the po cat delete, i think that rims like that would look sweet on your ride man go for it. i like the look better without the cap but cap is handy

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

Coming along nicely. Hows the mpgs? I bet it's a great DD.
18" go for it!! Just not chrome, lol.

93YotaGuy

I've had a Downey header on my 4x4 for about 3 years now and haven't had any problems with it. Having a header not only gives more power but makes the exhaust sound better too IMO.

I know, I do too but the cap does come in handy and since I already have a rollbar on my 4x4 there is no sense in taking it off.

93YotaGuy

Haha I agree no chrome. If anything it may be black with a tad bit of chrome around it. I've been searching on craigslist but haven't had any luck yet. In regard to the MPG's I haven't checked yet. Although, I will let you know when I do! :-D

I love it as a DD. The gearing ratio for the 2wd is sweet! I think I could contend with the stock civics and ricer community! Hahaha

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Quote/I love it as a DD. The gearing ratio for the 2wd is sweet! I think I could contend with the stock civics and ricer community! Hahaha[/QUOTE]

Nice find. Im glad to see you saved it from the junkyard. My brother has a 92 2WD and I have an 87. They are great for daily drivers. Of all of my trucks the 2WD is my favorite. They will get up and run for a 4 cyllinder. The gas mileage goes up quite a bit. I get around 24 and I have it to the floor all the time. I have gotten 28-30 mpgs if I drive easy and slower, but that is hard to do in it. The 4WDs, I slow it down..alot.

cred92

Yea I figure the headers are good for power n look cool n make it sound good lol I forgot these r old guys with these cars n go to car shows but the gto drags. Anyways I am digging your exhaust, so much I'm actually thinking about calling up the muffler shop n checking on price tommorrow on a setup jus like yours but I want a magnaflow that's what I had on my 3.4 Tacoma n it sounded good. How does your flow sound I have dual super 40 on my silverado sounds kick a when I romp on that v8

93YotaGuy

It sounds nice. I think its a little deeper than my 4x4. I have a header to 2 1/2 inch followed by a high flow cat and a 40 series magnaflow on it. One of these days I'll post a video of the differences between my 4x4 and the 2wd but unfortunately I won't be able to for a week or so because...


A couple of days ago I noticed that it had a slight rattle when starting but after the oil presure came up the rattle went away. I pulled off the valve cover and discovered that the drivers side guide was broken up top. I'll take some photos of what has been going on when I start to work on it.

I'm assuming that since the previous owner didn't put the cam gear on right he probably bought a cheap timing set and it gave way or I may have broken something while placing the cam gear in the right spot.

Either way, the timing set is on its way. I also purchased a new oil and water pump to sweeten the deal and not have to worry about it later.

I plan on replacing the timing chain and not doing the head gasket. Has anyone here ever done it this way? I researched it a bit and haven't noticed anyone having problems but i'm just not 100% sure yet. Guess we'll see.

cred92

Man that sucks, I know timing chains a pretty big deal to do. I haven't looked at it in mine, heck it runs fine for now figure replace it when the guides go r something. How do you tell when the guides go or the chain brakes? I know that sounds stupid but I've only owned my 92 22re 4x4 pickup maybe six months

93YotaGuy

Well if the guides go you can't miss it. It's a constant loud rattle which is basically your chain rubbing up against the head and/or the timing cover. I've never had a chain go bad but I've heard that once they break your motor is toast due to the pistons hitting the valves. I've always thought there was enough clearance to where they wouldn't hit but I've never tested it.

It shouldn't be too bad to change it out. Since I'm not taking off the head it shouldn't take me too long. I won't have to take off the header and the intake so it saves time. Also, since it is a 2wd I don't have to worry about the front differential.