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I swear that moonroof drain is next...I came to visit to check if I had posted a picture of towing a utility trailer but it looks like I didnt. So while I'm here, a few things I did:
-changed PCV and grommet back to OEM (online shopping!)
-brake flushed with vacuum pump, worked nice, no pic yet being in a hurry (harbor freight surprise there)
-used up the rest of the new gear oil sitting in garage and did partial drain and fill to rear diff with over 10 yr old syringe and tubes
-topped coolant reservoir
-in the middle of replacing rear wiper insert for the first time since I bought it...seems like only the dealer carries this part
-towed a washer over to a family friend for some cash
-took a nail sitting around and managed to fix my loosely hanging upper thingie for sunglasses/garage remote
At 222,800 mi currently. Keeping an eye on them sparkplugs. They're coming up due at some point, time-wise vs the mileage that's passed. Coolant hoses later. Moon roof drain check next couple days along with lower ball joints. They've been losing grease.
Oh, and the wife's Honda is back together and running nicely so far. 202k and getting more miles of use. Might have to update car insurance records.
Did I mention I like using U-Haul?? 🤪
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 05-18-2020 at 12:56 PM.
So I checked the drains the other day by running fluid down and they went right through to the ground. I imagine if it had been clogged, I'd gotten little to no flow. Seems likely the sealant, if there was any, between the moonroof glass and the plastic trim molding or the rubber molding itself just wore and tore. To be continued...
Then took the chance today and last night to do both lower ball joints. I got lucky with my adjustable 2 jaw puller from over 10 yrs ago with the pass side. The driver side tie rod gave me headache and after that experience, just gonna get the actual tie rod puller tool to save time at work. Fun job though since not on the clock.
Bought the joints few years ago, glad those are in once the old ones put out some grease. Wish it were that easy. Certain instructions left out so much detail. Driver side condition was worse. Again, no video of the popping action. I suck.
Tire rotation and my driver door are what I want to address sometime next. Maybe see what new suspension linkages would do. And fix my stupid Addco sway bar. One bracket fell out, since the bar isn't quite the same as stock. The bend comes too soon basically for the bracket to fit. Dremel'n time!
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 05-27-2020 at 07:28 PM.
Good job on the career. It is so freakin important to do something you enjoy and gives you more than just a paycheck. Helps to keep from being just another serf -or feeling like it anyway.
So is now your 'runner going to be a case of "Cobblers kids never have shoes" ? lol
I also note you've got proper jack and more importantly the jack stands! Safety first. (Thats what they say at *********** and its true unless they''re in big hurry and fixing to loose a job Whatever. I go back to work Tuesday -which pretty certain will be my last day. They've laid of over 500 ppl.)
Recall those earlier pics of the bottle jack (looking pretty lonely by itself!). cringe
That's a new phrase for me, coop. If you mean the 4rnr's wheels, yeah. Not into fixin' the paint that's chipped away. Maybe once I get caught up with other projects.
I still keep the black jack bottle from Wal-Mart as a backup. Floor jack is so much faster. But back then there was no such thing as craigslist. That and the two stands for I think $80 not too long ago.
Aww, glad the wife understands the love for fixing. Tools are a necessity.
Heyy, last day?! Shoot, I hope you land a better opportunity! These last few months have really affected things haven't they. I pray.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 05-27-2020 at 09:11 PM.
Few other shots: Better one showing the grease seepage. After the loud popping noise of freedom. The one time I didnt press record on the phone. Loosen/tighten to break free (cotter pin). Makes a world of difference that I should've done long ago with fasteners in general. Started wiggling out enough for the cutting pliers All that just to remove a cotter pin. Thankfully cotter pins are cheap.
Unfortunately no shots of the ball joint mounting bolts. Removing them came close to shearing due to buildup of rust on the threads (wire brushed off before reinstall). And since the new joints came with only new castle nuts, I had to be careful not to break off any since I needed this 4rnr for the job tomorrow. So I used applications of penetrant, MAPP torching, a touch of hammering and slow torque on the breaker bar to coax those bad boys out with no issue. Despite the flammable warnings, the fact is the penetrant sprays are nothing like putting flame on the spray can itself. Of course with the rubber components, I had to steer clear of bbq'n. So I no longer hesitate with using both methods on stubborn fasteners. I've had enough of breaking crap on me with too much torque and then have more complications and wait time thrown in.
I will say, on using the large adjustable puller, it is NOT easy to set up. I need almost a 3rd hand to grow out of my body to turn the threaded head. But once its aligned and set in, it does its job. Bit of a trial and error with a few times it just snapped off unsuccessfully so I use my other limbs and tools to help hold it as the tension builds with each turn. Do not hold fingers near that(!) It hurts.
The two jacks weren't just for safety. But also for freeing up the vehicle's sprung weight off the ball joint, while another helped support the upper control arm from weighing down on the cv axle with the lower portion of the joint assembly disconnected.
Not bad for hand tools and then some.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 05-27-2020 at 11:00 PM.
Tire rotation only for my update. Since it is a 2000, no tire pressure monitoring systems, so it was nice to check and see no embedded nails and no questionably low air pressures. Still runs as my DD. Optima red batt is 10 yrs old (new personal best) and still cranking through 30 degree mornings after sitting for 72hrs weekly and short commutes. Surprised the alternator and starter haven't put in for retirement yet. Avg about 5k miles a yr. Odo 226,600.
Got out the little grease gun from years past and got it to work for like 5 secs on a couple u-joints. Have to refurbish the gun or get a new one.
Oh and the sunroof leak mod is now a plastic bag to catch and drain. I'll post a pic one of these rainy days when the bag is full. I know. I plan to try silicone sealant later... Gotta do something I tell ya
Just been lazy to get going on the other stuff but nothing major. These guys are durable, despite the leaks, or I should say seep. The terms are big topics at the dealership.
Enjoying the flat rate life as a tech and though not as fast as Flash, I can still get by about 80-90% of my hrs. The learning is amazing and the shop environment is funny and helpful. I'm in it for as long as I can.
With the covid, man has the shop volume dropped. It really is taken seriously. But so fun to work on autos and even more I am pleased they're Toyotas.
So although I cant say enough about the perks of working at a shop with a lift and air tools, I still appreciate the garage at home for the diy projects.
Oh if only the garage could get to 65 degrees, I'd be lounging there instead!
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 01-29-2021 at 10:03 PM.
Oh and last fall, the mrs and I decided to look for a reliable car for her while I fix the Honda and lo and behold we found ourselves loving the 2011 Avalon(!) She did mention wanting to drive the newer model 4runners. But for the fuel economy and roomy interior, that 3.5l engine is even slightly bigger than the old 3.4 5vz!
I took some time one afternoon to get the maintenance done for her new ride. Oh and sweet history - 2 previous owners, clean carfax, and only 28k miles. Just a bad battery from sitting around. I was like, "give me that! I know what to do with it!"
Changed plugs. Been almost 30k mi but almost 4 yrs. Spark plug hole #3 doing ok since Time-Sert repair. I know, iridium single electrode. I thought back then of leaving plug #3 alone for as long as possible since repair, but since inspecting it, might as well change it back to copper. Refurb'd coil pack looks and smells of combustion...still crossing my fingers on this cyl head.
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Will do oil/rotate, clean MAF, PS fluid, and change out starter contacts later, ordered today via eBay.
Optima batt going on 11 yrs, Magnaflow catz doing well on 5 yr.. TBU brakes finally giving me courtesy noise after 5. That's been about 35k mi ago. I think I can push it.
OME and Tokico setup still looking nice since '14. Snow pic from a few months.
Will tackle the sunroof seal this summer hopefully...cracks in multiple spots makes me tempted to seek replacement options. But I'll try cheaper fixes first.
Optimas are pretty sturdy batteries, but I've noticed, on the ones I've had, that if they get get discharged all the way down like that, they are prone to having a cell failure. Best way to tell, I've found, is to trickle charge them overnight, disconnect them from the charger completely, check the voltage, and wait a few hours. Check the voltage across the battery again. If it's much lower than right after the charger is pulled off, you have a bad cell.
If not, all is well! Stick it. In the truck <ahem> and away you go.
I do love Optima batteries, though. Every one I've had has lasted a long time, unless I have a stupid attack and leave the lights on. Almost no terminal corrosion trouble, either. A little bit that can be cleaned off easily with a brass brush, but nothing like on a regular lead-acid battery.
Not much for the occasional update. Usual oil change and rotation. Odo almost 100k since I bought it 12yrs ago. At 232k mi.
Noticed my headlights getting dimmer and dimmer at night. So I grabbed some sylvanias at an online deal and cleaned off the built up corrosion off the connector contacts in the breezy cold temp of night and forgot how old this 2000 really is. But nothing broke off, surprisingly. Felt good to put some dielectric grease.
Oh, one of my aftermarket fog bulbs blew sometime recently. I pulled the 55w halogen bulb and need to figure out if soldering a spare 55w would solve the single bulb look that's become so common on roads strangely. Like are folks just not able to change headlight and brake light bulbs or dont want to do them? Mind blowing.
05-18-2020, 12:19 PM
