Ilovemountains

Ok, my Hendrix Motorsports hub puller finally came in yesterday so I’m ready to go. I bought 2 Brembo rotors, PF pads, new inner and outer bearings, races and seals and a tube of Mobile 1 full synthetic grease. Is there any thing else I am missing before I take the day off and start pulling my front end apart? My wheel bearings are SHOT, noisy and loose and my brake rotors are stock with 150,000 so the front end is a little over due for some attention! I recently changed 90% of the IFS parts out, everything but the A arm bushings, T bars and steering box. Please let me know if there is anything else you would want to have on hand or that you think I should clean, rebuild or replace while I’m in there. I don’t want to have to do this job again till 300,000 miles! Thanks again, Matt

Unhappy99

A packet of Permatex Brake Squeal Stop would be nice to put on the back side of the pads. Have you done this before? Do you have a Service Manual?

You need some unusual tools, namely:
2 1/4" socket (ICBW, its been a few years since I did my 87)
Drift, about 8 inches long and 3/8 square flat face.

If you need a step by step procedure, let me know. I'll write one up and email it. Or at least the interesting parts.

Ilovemountains

I didnt know that I needed a 2.5" socket...where can I get a "drift" I was told to get a brass one, but have no idea where to even look. I will stop at sears and pick up the socket tonight though.. Thanks Matt, Oh I do have a service manual but havent done this job on a Yota yet, only Saabs!

Unhappy99

Let me get home tonight and confirm socket size. You might also be able to get a 4WD hub nut wrench as a loan from Autozone. I do know my large socket was expensive and 3/4 drive, so I had to also buy the 1/2 to 3/4 step up adapter for my 1/2 inch torque wrench.

Regarding the drift, you have to hammer out the old races somehow. What is your plan?

There are two openings 180 apart on each race seat inside the hub. These openings are about 3/8 inch, maybe a little smaller. You stick the drift in the opening, up against the back side of the race. Whack it, move to the other opening on the same race, whack it. Working back and forth until the race falls out. Brass is ok, I use mild steel. To install the new race, insert it into the hub, then use the old race (inverted) as a drift to aide hammering in the new race. Since the old race is the same size, the is little risk of scratching the new race, and it helps align the new race to the hub.

You will also need about 20 shop rags to handle the greasy mess.

Sludge

Grab one of these and packing your bearing will be a lot easier and cleaner

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...0&categoryId=0

Ilovemountains

Yeah that’s kind of what I figured, I was going to use an old cheap flat blade screw driver that is made of rather soft steel to tap the races out.. I may have a socket big enough, I need to find out what the exact size I’m going to need, I have some rather large ones from the days of restoring old air cooled VWs! Thanks for the help, if you happen to know what size I need please let me know! Matt

BeaterToyota

54 mm

Unhappy99

Found mine, and Beater is correct, it is 2 1/8 inch. A sacraficial screwdriver will most likely NOT work, as you will beat the plastic handle apart before the race comes out. The drift I used is 3/8 square with a flat face. A long enough (6 inch might work) 3/8 socket extension, will work too, provided you consider it a sacraficial tool as well. Its going to take a beating. Also want a 6x6 or larger piece of wood to set the hub on, so that the lug bolts are not damaged when you beat out the outer races.

Tie up the caliper to the a-arm with wire or plastic tie. There is no need to disconnect the brake line. Once you have the caliper bracket removed:

Remove the 6 nuts holding on the hub. Remove the cone washers underneath the 6 nuts. A rubber mallet rapped on the hub will usually loosen the cone washers. Remove freewheel selector assembly thingy. The gasket will break with some of it on the hub and some of it on the freewheel selector. So what. Just reassemble it with the gasket lined up. Do not disassemble the freewheel selector.

Using a screwdriver, undo the locking ear(s) of the hub spindle lock washer which are bent over the outer hub nut. Remove outer
hub nut, lock washer, inner hub nut, thrust washer.

Hub, with brake rotor attached, is now removable from the spindle. The outer bearing will pop out. Inner bearing is held in by the grease seal. Rotor is bolted onto the hub. I usually replace the races, then the rotor, as the weight of the rotor helps stabilize the beating procedure.

And the rest is intuitively obvious. Fill hub with grease, fill bearings with grease. Pay attention to how the inner large hub spindle nut is torqued, called bearing preload. The procedure is something like: Tighten to 45lbs, spin wheel, tighten again if needed, spin wheel, loosen the nut 1/2 turn, then torque to preload spec. If you don't have a preload sping scale, I think 20lbs of torque or so worked, or whatever the manual says.

Unhappy99

p.s. I think there is a small bolt and washer on the axle end, which I forgot what purpose it serves. Remove this before the hub spindle nuts.

p.p.s. Now I remember. There are two pieces to the manual hub, the selector thingy and the piece the selector thingy goes into. There are 6 small bolts on the selector, with the nuts and cone washers on the piece which the selector goes in. The bolt/washer on the axle end hold in the second piece.

Ilovemountains

Thank you for the write up! This gives me a heads up on what I am up against... I will let you know when I am getting ready to do the job in case I have any questions! Thanks again, Matt

mt_goat

54mm sockets http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=2260