Dimmer for those sometimes too BRIGHT LIGHT'S we love!
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Dimmer for those sometimes too BRIGHT LIGHT'S we love!
Well while sitting by a campfire nursing a beer and enjoying the company of wife and k-9 I started to day dream. Hmmmmm I thought I love my Light Force 240's but some times they are just to bright (for daily commuting). Unless you commute by barren road (occasionally) or by desert, you may learn they are just to bright. My idea was to utilize a factory Toyota Dimmer to control the LF's. If I could turn them down to 1/2 power using the dimmer and yellow diffuser covers they would be tolerable by other drivers (at least until they cut you off) then
KA-BLAM retinal searing Light Force 240 Style.
Aaron
KA-BLAM retinal searing Light Force 240 Style.
Aaron
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I've got a DPDT switch for mine. One way I can turn the Lightforces on whenever regardless of my headlights being on or not, and the other is wired so that they will only go on with the highbeams. This way, if I want to run the LF's on the road, they go on and off with the highbeams. No need to be turning the highbeams off and looking for a switch at the same time.
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Again the point has been missed. I don't have a problem finding a switch and shutting them down. Who the hell needs high beams when LF's are on. I was just trying to come up with something to reduce light output making it possible to drive with them on during say rain and not blind everyone else. Think of it I use IPF fatboys for my hi/low setup and they are stated 65w/85w. And obviously to bright to run highs on when in traffic. But the LOW is fine. So why not either come up with a DIMMER (word used for selectable switch) or hell while we are at it just reconfigure the LF'd and swap em out for a dual filament bulb. Now in FL it is not illegal to use fog lamps and driving lamps on the road (as far as I Know) you have to use common sense and not melt the retinas of oncoming traffic.
Aaron
Aaron
#7
just get a rheostat thats rated enough for the amperage, it would have to be on the back side of the relay (the side that goes to the lights).
Last edited by crolison; 07-03-2008 at 05:24 PM.
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#8
just wondering maybe you guys can tell me yes/no on the feasabilaty on a slightly different note here, how difficult or easy would it be to incorporate the switch used in the older cadillacs (located in the front grill) that automaticly turns off the high beams (in this case the IPF fatboys) when there is on coming traffic headlights and then automaticly turns them back on after the car/truck has passed
#9
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I thought the lightforces are HID lights?
If so then you can't dim them. The ballests will just shut down if you lower the voltage.
If they are normal halagen then you would just need to rig a dimmer to them.
If so then you can't dim them. The ballests will just shut down if you lower the voltage.
If they are normal halagen then you would just need to rig a dimmer to them.
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As far as an auto hi beam killer what good would that do when the a-hole thats on coming won't kill his hi's, and you have to blast him?
No the original Light Force Blitz 240's are 100w xenospot bulb. There are XGT and the HID's as well so 3 240's in the lineup. NO way do dim out an hid that would probably cause a fire!!!!
Aaron
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Now to just figure the amp draw from 200w worth of bulbs on a 12v system and no I don't have a damn ohm meter with me. I Know watt to amps cant be done so I'll need to take a reading.
Aaron
Aaron
#12
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The amps for 200W lights at 14.4 volts should be right at 14 amps if my math is right.
So i would make sure it is rated at least 20 amps, always want at least a 25% margin for error.
EDIT: here is a calculator: http://www.raylucke.com/20010926/tools/amps.phtml
I was pretty much right.
So i would make sure it is rated at least 20 amps, always want at least a 25% margin for error.
EDIT: here is a calculator: http://www.raylucke.com/20010926/tools/amps.phtml
I was pretty much right.
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Awesome so time to shop for a 20A rheostat Though after some reading tey put off some heat. This might be only an issue for the large application in which the certain types I was looking at use but might be something to consider, wouldn't want the damn dash to catch on fire.
Aaron
Aaron
#14
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http://www.sailorsams.com/mall/dimme...p#Order%20Here
If it were me, I'd get the 30 amp unit. Then run the control box under the hood, and glue a heat sink to it.
EDIT...if you google the part number, you can find it for cheaper.....
http://www.google.com/search?q=ILVPC...e7&rlz=1I7GGIC
If it were me, I'd get the 30 amp unit. Then run the control box under the hood, and glue a heat sink to it.
EDIT...if you google the part number, you can find it for cheaper.....
http://www.google.com/search?q=ILVPC...e7&rlz=1I7GGIC
Last edited by Adam F; 07-04-2008 at 05:18 PM.
#15
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Holy dang!!!
$150 for a dimmer?!?!?!?!?!?!? Sorry but i won't be doing this mod, good idea, Way too much money.
I mean that is like a WHOLE tank of gas!
$150 for a dimmer?!?!?!?!?!?!? Sorry but i won't be doing this mod, good idea, Way too much money.
I mean that is like a WHOLE tank of gas!
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Yeah sadly me either but at last I got the idea out there in the event anyone else gives it a go. How much are you paying for gas in TX? 150/18 = 8.33 pg. What gives?
Aaron
Aaron
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You know how hard it is to detect sarcasm through text. I was just thinking good god man that's expensive more like highway robbery not that $4 pg is any better but still.
Aaron
Aaron
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