Deck Plate Mod.....ROCKS! +2 Questions?
02-24-2003, 10:07 AM
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
-I was at Lowes and found a cap that fit the J-tube well (1 1/4" maybe?). I had trouble finding something that would fit the other two boxes- do you know what sizes to use?
-I was at Lowes and found a cap that fit the J-tube well (1 1/4" maybe?). I had trouble finding something that would fit the other two boxes- do you know what sizes to use?
Hope this helps.
Dr. Z
02-24-2003, 10:11 AM
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Thanks Dr. Z- I think Lowe's was a bit too disorganized, I'm going to head down to a plumbing supplier warehouse and will probably have better luck finding what I need.
02-24-2003, 10:16 AM
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
<96 Runner>, were you getting pinging with with both resonator boxes removed, but not with leaving front connected?
<96 Runner>, were you getting pinging with with both resonator boxes removed, but not with leaving front connected?
With all 3 removed and 87 octane there was pinging (in my 98).
I am pretty sure that the J-pipe is not a resonator, but a safegaurd for water ingestion. But, its a hamper to intake flow if you ask me, so out it goes! Just thought I would add that.
02-24-2003, 10:19 AM
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Originally posted by <96 Runner>
With my current set-up (2 out of 3 removed) NO pinging.
With all 3 removed and 87 octane there was pinging (in my 98).
I am pretty sure that the J-pipe is not a resonator, but a safegaurd for water ingestion. But, its a hamper to intake flow if you ask me, so out it goes! Just thought I would add that.
With my current set-up (2 out of 3 removed) NO pinging.
With all 3 removed and 87 octane there was pinging (in my 98).
I am pretty sure that the J-pipe is not a resonator, but a safegaurd for water ingestion. But, its a hamper to intake flow if you ask me, so out it goes! Just thought I would add that.
My .02
Dr. Z
02-24-2003, 10:20 AM
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
Thanks Dr. Z- I think Lowe's was a bit too disorganized, I'm going to head down to a plumbing supplier warehouse and will probably have better luck finding what I need.
Thanks Dr. Z- I think Lowe's was a bit too disorganized, I'm going to head down to a plumbing supplier warehouse and will probably have better luck finding what I need.
Dr. Z
02-24-2003, 10:21 AM
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Originally posted by Dr. Zhivago
Actually, it is a resonator. Toyota named it thusly, not me.
My .02
Dr. Z
Actually, it is a resonator. Toyota named it thusly, not me.
My .02
Dr. Z
I know everything! What does Toyota know about Toyotas!
02-24-2003, 10:57 AM
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
I think both of you are wrong- its actually a hook to hang an air freshener to make sure your engine keeps that "fresh" feeling.
I think both of you are wrong- its actually a hook to hang an air freshener to make sure your engine keeps that "fresh" feeling.
I think its for a factory installed NOS system that TRD decided "would not be profitable and might induce pinging."
02-24-2003, 11:55 AM
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Sort of related, here is something odd I noticed I'm hoping someone can explain:
When I did the deckplate a week or so ago, I reset the ECU (I actually pulled 2 ECU fuses from the inside and the EFI fuse from the engine bay, as I wasn't sure which one it actually was) as recommended. I *immediately* noticed an improvement - even to where starting the engine happened faster, like it was pumping more gas in for sea level or something (Denver has a lot less air to play with).
However, I've noticed a slight decline from the initial improvement. It's still better than it was, but it's like the ECU has gone backwards from what it reset itself to, probably resulting from the altitiude.
Is there anything I can do about this? I know it should be running better than it is (and can be), and if there's something simple I can do when I tune it all up I'd be all for it. I'm planning to do the ISR the same weekend but it really sounds like the ECU is holding back and could be made to haul ass, if it's inputs could be tricked into thinking there were more air than there really is perhaps......
Ideas? Comments? Am I just imagining things?
When I did the deckplate a week or so ago, I reset the ECU (I actually pulled 2 ECU fuses from the inside and the EFI fuse from the engine bay, as I wasn't sure which one it actually was) as recommended. I *immediately* noticed an improvement - even to where starting the engine happened faster, like it was pumping more gas in for sea level or something (Denver has a lot less air to play with).
However, I've noticed a slight decline from the initial improvement. It's still better than it was, but it's like the ECU has gone backwards from what it reset itself to, probably resulting from the altitiude.
Is there anything I can do about this? I know it should be running better than it is (and can be), and if there's something simple I can do when I tune it all up I'd be all for it. I'm planning to do the ISR the same weekend but it really sounds like the ECU is holding back and could be made to haul ass, if it's inputs could be tricked into thinking there were more air than there really is perhaps......
Ideas? Comments? Am I just imagining things?
02-24-2003, 12:31 PM
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Check out:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dr_z_ect/dr_z.htm
Other than buying some type of control unit to manual tweak system settings, this seems like a pretty straight forward mod for "tricking" the engine, was developed by Dr. Z
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dr_z_ect/dr_z.htm
Other than buying some type of control unit to manual tweak system settings, this seems like a pretty straight forward mod for "tricking" the engine, was developed by Dr. Z
Is there anything I can do about this? I know it should be running better than it is (and can be), and if there's something simple I can do when I tune it all up I'd be all for it. I'm planning to do the ISR the same weekend but it really sounds like the ECU is holding back and could be made to haul ass, if it's inputs could be tricked into thinking there were more air than there really is perhaps......
02-24-2003, 01:35 PM
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
Check out:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dr_z_ect/dr_z.htm
Other than buying some type of control unit to manual tweak system settings, this seems like a pretty straight forward mod for "tricking" the engine, was developed by Dr. Z
Check out:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dr_z_ect/dr_z.htm
Other than buying some type of control unit to manual tweak system settings, this seems like a pretty straight forward mod for "tricking" the engine, was developed by Dr. Z
I will try the ECT mod and see if it returns the rig to it's original peppy self, I mean it's just $5 in parts plus some wire I already have, no big deal. On the "to do after a tune-up" list...
thanks!
02-24-2003, 07:57 PM
#33
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Originally posted by denverbikeguy
Yeah I read that, I suppose it would accomplish the same thing really. The other way would be to change the output of the MAF somehow, but that's more trouble than it is probably worth.
Yeah I read that, I suppose it would accomplish the same thing really. The other way would be to change the output of the MAF somehow, but that's more trouble than it is probably worth.
As a sidebar... Dr. Z didn't develop this mod, but he should be credited to bringing it to this community. I bring this up only 'cause I know how he is about accepting and giving credit.
02-24-2003, 08:05 PM
#34
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Originally posted by Mad Chemist
Thanks Dr. Z- I think Lowe's was a bit too disorganized, I'm going to head down to a plumbing supplier warehouse and will probably have better luck finding what I need.
Thanks Dr. Z- I think Lowe's was a bit too disorganized, I'm going to head down to a plumbing supplier warehouse and will probably have better luck finding what I need.
One thing to remember is to check both sides of the caps. Ultimately you want to find caps where the flat side is the right size, but one of my caps I went with the "open" side. That will create a small vortex in the air path, but it's DRASTICALLY smaller than what was there.
Lowe's vs. Home Depot is a different thread
but in general I think that while Lowe's has the upper hand in fasteners, and Home Depot has it in plumbing. There are of course a number of other differences... Good luck!
02-24-2003, 08:13 PM
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Just to clarify, I didn't modify the MAF (VG) signal, but rather the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) signal that is part of the MAF. Modifying the IAT on these engines does not yield any performance improvement due to the way Toyota has the ECU set up.
Dr. Z
EDIT: Modifying the MAF (VG) Signal is what devices like the sAFC and SMT-6 piggyback devices do. They modify the signal by boosting or lowering the voltage to richen or lean out the mixture.
Dr. Z
EDIT: Modifying the MAF (VG) Signal is what devices like the sAFC and SMT-6 piggyback devices do. They modify the signal by boosting or lowering the voltage to richen or lean out the mixture.
Last edited by Dr. Zhivago; 02-24-2003 at 08:16 PM.
02-25-2003, 02:57 AM
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Originally posted by Dr. Zhivago
EDIT: Modifying the MAF (VG) Signal is what devices like the sAFC and SMT-6 piggyback devices do. They modify the signal by boosting or lowering the voltage to richen or lean out the mixture.
EDIT: Modifying the MAF (VG) Signal is what devices like the sAFC and SMT-6 piggyback devices do. They modify the signal by boosting or lowering the voltage to richen or lean out the mixture.
) until you get the desired voltage. I know nothing about the IAC on our cars.
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