Changed spark plugs today and cleaned throttle body, just couple questions.
01-01-2010, 06:09 PM
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Changed spark plugs today and cleaned throttle body, just couple questions.
ok...so PLEASE BEAR WITH ME ON THIS ONE..lots to read lol
i have 1999 4runner, with 260k miles, I have never cleaned the throttle body before, but it went well today. Also i changed the spark plugs. I did them one by one so i wouldnt get confused. After both, i plugged everything back in and started the car, took about 3 tries to get it running, then i noticed white smoke coming out of the exhaust and some liquid dripping, but after about 45 seconds it all stopped and the car was back to normal again. (no dripping, no excessive smoke) , i then took the car out for 30 miles and everything was normal
My question is, if anything went wrong during changing the spark plugs, how long will it take b4 i know something went wrong? like i said i took the car out for 30 or so miles, but when something goes wrong, how long does it take to show after changing spark plugs?
ALSO, to whoever changed spark plugs on a 3rd gen T4R, you know that the driver side is a pain in the ass to change. But the thing is, when i was changing them, i noticed they didnt have coil packs, but just something different, it was rubber and it covered the spark plug tube. It acted like a suction cup that kept stuff out of the tube. HOWEVER, when i pulled it out and put it back in, i noticed that it wasnt stuck hard in there like b4 i took it out. Meaning that it didnt feel as solid and "stuck in" like it did b4 i took them out. they wiggled a little, and i could pull the piece about a millimeter or 2 out, but the car still started. im just scared that i did that wrong. but i pushed it in as far as i could, so what should i do? or is that normal?
could i loose mileages for over/under tightening the spark plugs?
THE END. THANKS
i have 1999 4runner, with 260k miles, I have never cleaned the throttle body before, but it went well today. Also i changed the spark plugs. I did them one by one so i wouldnt get confused. After both, i plugged everything back in and started the car, took about 3 tries to get it running, then i noticed white smoke coming out of the exhaust and some liquid dripping, but after about 45 seconds it all stopped and the car was back to normal again. (no dripping, no excessive smoke) , i then took the car out for 30 miles and everything was normal
My question is, if anything went wrong during changing the spark plugs, how long will it take b4 i know something went wrong? like i said i took the car out for 30 or so miles, but when something goes wrong, how long does it take to show after changing spark plugs?
ALSO, to whoever changed spark plugs on a 3rd gen T4R, you know that the driver side is a pain in the ass to change. But the thing is, when i was changing them, i noticed they didnt have coil packs, but just something different, it was rubber and it covered the spark plug tube. It acted like a suction cup that kept stuff out of the tube. HOWEVER, when i pulled it out and put it back in, i noticed that it wasnt stuck hard in there like b4 i took it out. Meaning that it didnt feel as solid and "stuck in" like it did b4 i took them out. they wiggled a little, and i could pull the piece about a millimeter or 2 out, but the car still started. im just scared that i did that wrong. but i pushed it in as far as i could, so what should i do? or is that normal?
could i loose mileages for over/under tightening the spark plugs?
THE END. THANKS
Last edited by bak3rme; 01-01-2010 at 06:15 PM.
01-01-2010, 07:14 PM
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I agree,
long cranking and white smoke was due to the throttle body cleaner burning off along with what ever moisture condensed in there.
Sounds like you got the plugs changed fine. The boot is harder to get off initially becuase of the heat inside the engine compartment and time. As long as you snugged all the plugs down you shouldnt have a problem. Usually when you push the plug wires down, you will feel them sort of pop down that last 1/4 inch or so; then give them a slight twist to make sure they are seated.
long cranking and white smoke was due to the throttle body cleaner burning off along with what ever moisture condensed in there.
Sounds like you got the plugs changed fine. The boot is harder to get off initially becuase of the heat inside the engine compartment and time. As long as you snugged all the plugs down you shouldnt have a problem. Usually when you push the plug wires down, you will feel them sort of pop down that last 1/4 inch or so; then give them a slight twist to make sure they are seated.
01-01-2010, 07:24 PM
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I agree that it was probably just burning off the cleaner you used. The driver side plug boots usually do kinda snap into place, but if you re-used your old wires, they probably just don't fit as tight now. If they weren't making contact you'd be getting misfire codes so you're probably fine. If you have any missing/shuddering/stumbling in the future, I would replace the 3 wires going to the driver's side plugs.
I don't know how bad your gas mileage would suffer from over/under tightening plugs, but if you over-tighten them it could damage the plug tubes or you could break the plug off inside the engine when installing or even when you go to take them back out later. If you under-tighten, they could unscrew and come out which isn't a good thing.
You should really use anti-seize on the plug threads and tighten them to 167 in. lbs (or about 14 ft. lbs). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench (I could barely live w/o mine), just snug em up good and do another 1/2 turn or so. It's also a good idea to use a little dielectric grease in the boots (on both sides) to ensure a strong spark and prevent the boots from fusing to the plugs.
I don't know how bad your gas mileage would suffer from over/under tightening plugs, but if you over-tighten them it could damage the plug tubes or you could break the plug off inside the engine when installing or even when you go to take them back out later. If you under-tighten, they could unscrew and come out which isn't a good thing.
You should really use anti-seize on the plug threads and tighten them to 167 in. lbs (or about 14 ft. lbs). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench (I could barely live w/o mine), just snug em up good and do another 1/2 turn or so. It's also a good idea to use a little dielectric grease in the boots (on both sides) to ensure a strong spark and prevent the boots from fusing to the plugs.
01-01-2010, 07:43 PM
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I agree,
long cranking and white smoke was due to the throttle body cleaner burning off along with what ever moisture condensed in there.
Sounds like you got the plugs changed fine. The boot is harder to get off initially becuase of the heat inside the engine compartment and time. As long as you snugged all the plugs down you shouldnt have a problem. Usually when you push the plug wires down, you will feel them sort of pop down that last 1/4 inch or so; then give them a slight twist to make sure they are seated.
long cranking and white smoke was due to the throttle body cleaner burning off along with what ever moisture condensed in there.
Sounds like you got the plugs changed fine. The boot is harder to get off initially becuase of the heat inside the engine compartment and time. As long as you snugged all the plugs down you shouldnt have a problem. Usually when you push the plug wires down, you will feel them sort of pop down that last 1/4 inch or so; then give them a slight twist to make sure they are seated.
I agree that it was probably just burning off the cleaner you used. The driver side plug boots usually do kinda snap into place, but if you re-used your old wires, they probably just don't fit as tight now. If they weren't making contact you'd be getting misfire codes so you're probably fine. If you have any missing/shuddering/stumbling in the future, I would replace the 3 wires going to the driver's side plugs.
I don't know how bad your gas mileage would suffer from over/under tightening plugs, but if you over-tighten them it could damage the plug tubes or you could break the plug off inside the engine when installing or even when you go to take them back out later. If you under-tighten, they could unscrew and come out which isn't a good thing.
You should really use anti-seize on the plug threads and tighten them to 167 in. lbs (or about 14 ft. lbs). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench (I could barely live w/o mine), just snug em up good and do another 1/2 turn or so. It's also a good idea to use a little dielectric grease in the boots (on both sides) to ensure a strong spark and prevent the boots from fusing to the plugs.
I don't know how bad your gas mileage would suffer from over/under tightening plugs, but if you over-tighten them it could damage the plug tubes or you could break the plug off inside the engine when installing or even when you go to take them back out later. If you under-tighten, they could unscrew and come out which isn't a good thing.
You should really use anti-seize on the plug threads and tighten them to 167 in. lbs (or about 14 ft. lbs). If you don't want to buy a torque wrench (I could barely live w/o mine), just snug em up good and do another 1/2 turn or so. It's also a good idea to use a little dielectric grease in the boots (on both sides) to ensure a strong spark and prevent the boots from fusing to the plugs.
thanks guys, that puts my mind at ease, i feel better now and im happy it turned out good..so far lol. well i hope it keeps running. im pretty sure i didnt over tighten any of the, because i knew that next time it would be a pain in the ass to take out, and i did put anti seize on. THANKS GUYS
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