jimrockford

I've been struggling with starter problems on my '91 4Runner for several months now. Turn the key and all I would get was a click. Try twenty times, and it would start. I replaced the contacts as suggested in the forum before, but still had the same problems.

Today, I broke down and bought a new starter. I thought I'd share my install experience in hopes of helping someone else down the road.

Here's what worked for me:

I started off by disconnecting the positive battery cable and raising the truck on a lift.

Starter access is through an access panel inside the passenger side wheel well. Space is very tight, especially without a body lift.

Two wires supply juice to the starter. I removed the positive cable by running a 12mm (?) socket up behind the frame from underneath. I left the other wire for later.

Two bolts hold the starter in place. The bottom bolt connects to the block from the front of the truck; the top bolt from the back. Both bolts are difficult to reach.

The top bolt gave me some trouble. I could get a 14mm socket on it fairly easy by reaching up between the frame and the engine, but didn't have enough room to turn the wrench. I found a deep socket moved the handle back far enough to get a couple of clicks of movement. I loosened it enough with the socket to back it out the rest of the way by hand.

To remove the bottom bolt, I removed the front skid plate. I used a long (24") extension and a universal joint to snake a 14mm socket through the suspension components to the bolt from the front of the vehicle.

I finished removing both bolts to free the starter. I wiggled the starter around to get better access to the second wire that was attached to the bottom of the starter by a plastic connector. I used a screwdriver to depress the catch on the connector and unplugged it.

The starter was completely unattached, but very much still part of the truck. Did I mention space was tight? To free up a little room, I gently forced several cables to either side of the wheel well access panel. A small bracket held the positive starter cable in the way so I unscrewed it and moved it aside.

I worked the starter around to bring it through the access panel to freedom. I read posts that suggested prying on the motor mount with a pry bar, or removing a heat shield to get the starter out. I managed to get it out without any extra help. It doesn't look like it'll fit, but it does. It just takes a little coaxing.

I reversed the removal instructions to install the new starter. It was quite a bit quicker going in than coming out.

Once everything was back together, I fired it up. It started instantly. Damn nice feeling.

Total time was about 1 1/2 hours, but it was the second time I'd had the thing apart.

trd90toyota

I had the damnest time with my starter on my old 90 pick-up. I'm gald to see you didn't have to take off the oil filter.hehe well, I keep getting remanufatured starters and they burning up. It got to the point that I'd be relacing a starter a month. Grrrr. it got to the point that i could get the starter replaced in about 45 min to an hour. gald to see you got your in one try!

jimrockford

I bought a remanufactured starter as well. Hope I don't have the same problems you went through. I don't have the time to be replacing starters every month.

Even worse is that after I replaced the old starter, I disassembled it to take a look at the solenoid contacts. Turns out one of the contacts wasn't making contact with the solenoid plunger because the other contact was a little crooked. If I would have done the contacts correctly the first time, I wouldn't have had to replace it.

"Cat-O-Leen"

Did you read any of the articles available on starter contact repair?

I was getting the click and, it was the positive contact.

Putting in a new contact as opposed to replacing the starter could be the difference between $150-$200 and $7.

On removal, taking off the heat shield made a ton of difference with getting it out.

jimrockford

I replaced the contacts before replacing the starter. I was sure it was the contacts, but still had problems after doing them. I assumed I was mistaken and replaced the starter. I opened the old starter up to take a look at the contacts and found that one of them was a little crooked. It was preventing the plunger from making contact with the other one.

You're right, it would have saved some cash. I bought a remanufactured starter for $85 from a local auto parts store, so I may be in for more problems later on as well. We'll see.

Corbit

Thanks for the insight. I started to remove ( unbolt only ) the starter on a 91 4runner , and It looked like it just would not come out of there , I'm so glad we have this fourm and the ability to search. Now I can see how to remove it , with the help of hindsight from others Thanks Corbit.

jimrockford

I did a better write up with pictures a while back. If you haven't replaced it yet, it might help: Starter Replacement

DaveInDenver

My '91 did the same thing. Replacing the contacts and solenoid plunger didn't help, either. FWIW, Toyota sells reman starters and that's what's been on mine for about 3 years now. It was more expensive than the cheap-o Autozone, but significantly less than a new one.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

If you run into starter problems, by all means do some troubleshooting to determine the cause of the problem first:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
You may have an electrical problem upstream from the starter or it may just be the copper contacts in the solenoid that are worn. They can be replaced without removing the starter from the engine bay.

Corbit

I removed the starter , took it to the local parts store and had it tested . It was fine , I put it back in and still no start. After searching for a while , I got to looking at the neutral cut switch. I turned the key to the start position and moved the tranny shifter back and forth VROOM. Haven't had a problem with it yet , Thanks again.

ROMAD

I did my 95 3.0 a few weeks ago as seen here

I had the hardest time removing the starter until I removed the heat shield then it was smooth sailing.

I did find a ratcheting box end wrench to be very very very useful for this (and many other) operation.

None the less now that my rig has brand new contacts and a full/complete tune up all with less than 10K miles... it still doesn't start *instantly* like my old Chevy's did...takes about a half second longer than I am used to. Its no big deal other than I am used to being able to tune/repair a engine to start faster than this one does despite a very thorough and complete tune up/preventative maintenance repairs.

Either way though - its a good fix and well worth the effort

Benjamin Redman

I know it's been years since anyone's replied on this but I have a 91 and my exhaust seems to be hanging way lower than any pictures I've seen and it's making it impossible to remove the starter struggled with it for about an hour and a half today with no luck. Am I gonna have to remove my exhaust manifold to get it out?