jaretstuff

Hello all looking to buy a 99 4runner Limited with the multi mode transfer case AND the rear elocker. The seller states that the vehicle will not go into 4x4 and will need a transfer case actuator. My question is how can this system be bypassed. I am buying this 4runner strictly to be taken offroad around my property and instead of spending the cash to fix it I would more prefer to just lock the system into 4x4 all the time. I’m familiar with the Vacuum ADD of the 89-95 trucks and was told it is similar. The transfer case is where I am the most unfamiliar. I’ve had it described that the actuator is similar to an elocker actuator in the fact it is an electric motor. I would think I could just pull it out, clock it by hand, and be good to go. Also if I did this would I have to do the grey wire mod for the elocker to come on? Thank you,

Zcostilla

I am not familiar with this at all, but I do know that manny actuators require a voltage to hold the switch to “on”, and it is spring loaded to turn off as soon as there is no more voltage. My old Suburban had this with the heat/cool air actuator for the front vents. I thought removing the actuator would fix it and I would just manually turn it each season and we only used it for towing a trailer for the lawn mowers, but it just kept closing automatically and blew HOT air during the 100 degree days of summer. I had to pony up and buy the actuator.

jaretstuff

thank you for the response, I think, emphasis on think that the actuator is just an electric motor like the elocker so you could move it to the max of its travel and it physically could not return to 2wd mode as THats as far as it goes. But was hoping to get someone that’s messed with one of those tcases before

fierohink

If you take the cover off the actuator you should be able to shift it manually, barring some sort of internal mechanical failure.

i would do a little diagnostic work on it first. Even tho these 4wd Systems cause people headaches, the failures usually boil down to either a bad position sensor or corroded contact traces inside the actuator. Both are relatively easy to repair. The notion of replacing actuators cake from dealers that didn’t want to spend the time under the warranty clock tracing down a $20 part when they could replace the actuator assembly or transfer case for WAY more money.

jaretstuff

im currently debating on if I want to pull the trigger on it