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In all honesty, the flag will probably end up being permanent. At least until 4runner gets a paint job. Maybe. Might still keep the flag until it just gets so grimey (sp?) That I can't stand it anymore.
Well, plans didn't pan out quite like I envisioned, but we're rolling with it. For now, the topper is done. It'll have to go back on as is. Couldn't use the flag because it was just a touch too short and narrow. But we're thinking of using it for a fast and dirty bikini top. We'll see.
My paint booth. It's ugly, but since I'm borrowing my dad's shop, he'd kill me if I got over spray on anything, especially the horse trailer.
First coat.
3rd coat.
Trim parts painted.
Doesn't look too bad. As long as people don't look too close, it'll be fine.
Not bad, I'd say. It'll be nice when it's dry. It's still the slightest bit tacky.
All the trim reinstalled sans flag. It would have looked pretty awesome. I can promise you that.
Well, today was a bit of a letdown. But a good learning experience nonetheless. Check, double check, triple check, then have a friend check again all the hose clamps. Because you don't want to spring leaks...from everywhere.
well, I didn't. And it took us several hours to track all the leaks down. But we got it all sorted. Got it all topped up with oil. A little overfull actually so it can fill all the nooks and crannies when we get it running.
which leads us to where we left off. A click click click and nothing else. Googling lead me to find threads about the grounds being bad. And starter contacts being shot. Well, we pull the starter and check the contacts and they are borked. So a little sanding, a little grinding, a little cleaning terminals, and viola, slam it all together and reinstall. Aaaaaaaaaand, click click click. So, we move onto the grounds. Sanding paint off of the block ground, cleaned all connections. No change. That's where I left it. I was irritated and tired. So, no start. Gonna give it more work tomorrow. Pics as usual. Not many, but enough.
Darkfairytales working on getting some hoses reclamped.
Rust in the barrel and funky wear on the contacts.
So much corosion.
Lump of buildup
Had to take the grinding wheel to this to remove it.
Just 1 of many leaks.
Starter reinstalled. She's ugly.
Is it just me or does it look like the big fuses have corrosion on them?
Oh, almost forgot, pulled the fuel pump hatch and it was freaking sealed down with what seemed like window caulking! When will the madness end?!
Starter passed the tests at autozone, literally, 10 times. They said that it may look like crap but it works fine. So, next step is to grind down all grounds. Unfortunately, it's started pouring here and will be all week. I can't get into the shop when the weather is like this.
I would run a hot wire straight from battery to starter solenoid. The truck should turn over. Put the truck in neutral so it doesn't move. If it does turn over then look into starter relay.
Good day Mr doomy,
Your video has the sound of a very energetic solenoid. Assuming the bench test was after you did the rehabilitation, I think you're on the right track with an inadequate ground since it grounds via the starter body. You can also check over the gear mesh it should align itself but if it has a gummed up or bured gear it won't. Not 100% sure but if it doesn't extend far enough you won't get the starter motor to make the contact to spin.
I would run a hot wire straight from battery to starter solenoid. The truck should turn over. Put the truck in neutral so it doesn't move. If it does turn over then look into starter relay.
was thinking about doing this. I asked Vital22re and he sent me some instructions for installing a hot shot. ill see if i can do that. i am not confident in my electrical capabilities. The truck is an auto, didnt think that it would start in neutral, but park should be fine. also, the truck does not have a starter relay. dunno why, but its not there.
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
Good day Mr doomy,
Your video has the sound of a very energetic solenoid. Assuming the bench test was after you did the rehabilitation, I think you're on the right track with an inadequate ground since it grounds via the starter body. You can also check over the gear mesh it should align itself but if it has a gummed up or bured gear it won't. Not 100% sure but if it doesn't extend far enough you won't get the starter motor to make the contact to spin.
yes, bench test was after rehabbing the contacts. The gear wasnt gummed up at all, and moved freely in the tests. Im going to go through tonight and sand down all the grounds. the block was painted over a few of the grounds, and i thought that i got them clean enough, but im not sure i did enough. if this doesnt work, i might have to build a starter relay circuit per vitaly's instructions. and pray to god i dont burn the damn thing to the ground.
I did the Painless Wiring Hot Shot relay on my 86 4runner and it did the trick. Had the same problem on my 87'...on this one I followed RAD4runner's write up. It's quick, easy to follow and free. It's been a year and haven't heard the click, click since doing his mod. Starts on post #42 https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...00/index3.html
Connecting the starter straight to battery is literally just one wire. The reason i said neutral is because once you connect that 12v power is going to turn over regardless of gear. I guess park would work, but i would still do neutral with e brake.
you are only doing it for a moment to test, not trying to start the truck.
to do this you disconnect the little wire going to the starter and run a wire from that point on the starter straight to the battery positive. Once you touch the wire to the positive post the starter will go. If you don't feel comfortable doing this then follow instructions from the other posts instead.
started the night out terrified of anything electrical. Ended the night still terrified but I have a truck that will turn over now!
I fjorded the muddy swamp to get to the shop tonight. It's been dumping buckets here, but I had to get this figured out. Had doomy and the Littles in tow. Started by having doomy help me pull all the grounds and sand them to bare metal. Also cleaned and sanded theterminal ends to get them in presentable shape. I was going to rebuild all the grounds with larger wire, but i didnt have ring end terminals that were large enough. Then i built a jumper to test the voltage coming from the ignition. Setting up the wires and terminals and whatnot was actually relaxing. Made a long lead too. Then went to test with the multimeter. It was a harbor freight special and I have no clue how to use it. Set it to 20 volt range and went to test the battery. Well, the leads got super hot, so I promptly ripped off the connectors and threw it in the trash. Went straight to the long lead trying to hot wire the truck. And it worked as the video will show. Kinda. It turned over fine. Starter doesn't sound super healthy, but that could be because I wasn't holding the jumper on the positive terminal very long. I'm a wuss. It was scaring me. I didn't know if the 16 gauge wire was thick enough to not melt in my hands. I'm a pansy. There, I said it. The main point is, it turned over!
Ive paid way too much money to have a 40 amp Bosch relay sent to me from amazon. And i will be making my starter relay tomorrow night. Vitaly tells me that Pin 30 from battery. 87 to starter solenoid. 86 from start signal wire 85 to ground.
so essentially, we will be running a straight shot from the battery to starter and controlling that relay with the signal from the ignition switch, correct?
anyways, pics as usual. Link to youtube video down below. Sorry about my lisp. It becomes more pronounced the more tired I am.
I need a wider selection for the terminals. But this little 8 dollar kit worked good for what I needed it for.
16 gauge wire. Baby blue was the only color we currently have on hand. Hideous, but it works.
Jumper finished. I know I probably didn't need the heat shrink, but I was enjoying myself. Like I said, it was relaxing. Don't judge.
Jumper with a 3-ish foot lead to get to the battery.
Aaaaand, as I was finishing up the lead with the heat shrink, the cord from the heat gun knocked my terminal kit to the floor of the shop. Ever dropped a light bulb on the ground and seen it go in a million different directions? Yea. Just like that. Pretty sure my daughters learned at least 3 new curse words. Hell, I might have learned a new one myself.
Last edited by space-junk; 03-22-2017 at 03:08 AM.
Sorry... came late to the party
Great and serious restoration, Space-Junk, and good troubleshooting, guys!
Originally Posted by doomy
https://youtu.be/WYJ_wr1vbLo
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
...Your video has the sound of a very energetic solenoid. ... inadequate ground
+1
Sounds like the starter solenoid is actuating alright. BUT... Perhaps plunger is not going the whole travel to close the solenoid contacts, OR contacts closed but connections WERE not cleaned before above test was done.
Originally Posted by 92ehatch
I would run a hot wire straight from battery to starter solenoid. ...If it does turn over then look into starter relay.
Originally Posted by rustED
I did the Painless Wiring Hot Shot relay on my 86 4runner and it did the trick.....
+1 Based on pictures, we're dealing with an automatic which does not have a starter relay; power to energize starter solenoid has to travel from ignition switch in cabin, over long, thin wire, to the tranny, through the neutral safety switch (whose contacts already have 30 years' worth of grime), and finally to the starter solenoid.
So a relay or hot shot is really warranted. It will also help extend the lives of the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch which currently carries 12amps needed to energize the starter solenoid.
I also highly recommend that you inspect and clean the neutral safety switch.
Originally Posted by space-junk
... ... so essentially, we will be running a straight shot from the battery to starter and controlling that relay with the signal from the ignition switch, correct?...Vitaly tells me that Pin 30 from battery. 87 to starter solenoid. 86 from start signal wire 85 to ground.
Absolutely correct, but I would fuse the wire from battery as close to battery as possible, and use 12AWG. You should only need about 2 feet. (That will also give you a good perspective of how much shorter the power to energize the starter solenoid has to travel with this mod compared to stock.
Way late to mention but you can try fiddling with the shifter, push it forward while you turn the key to take out any slop in the bushings. Mine had similar issues, but I wasn't getting a solenoid click just the cor, my quick fix was to just adjust the NSS with a multimeter plugged into the harness (wire/plug is near the starter). The factory manual adjustment is a pita, the shift lever blocks the alignment marks when attached.
Sorry... came late to the party
Great and serious restoration, Space-Junk, and good troubleshooting, guys!
Better late than never!!
+1
Sounds like the starter solenoid is actuating alright. BUT... Perhaps plunger is not going the whole travel to close the solenoid contacts, OR contacts closed but connections WERE not cleaned before above test was done.
They were, but they were not cleaned very well.
+1 Based on pictures, we're dealing with an automatic which does not have a starter relay; power to energize starter solenoid has to travel from ignition switch in cabin, over long, thin wire, to the tranny, through the neutral safety switch (whose contacts already have 30 years' worth of grime), and finally to the starter solenoid.
So a relay or hot shot is really warranted. It will also help extend the lives of the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch which currently carries 12amps needed to energize the starter solenoid.
I also highly recommend that you inspect and clean the neutral safety switch.
Once I fifgure out where that is, i will do so.
Absolutely correct, but I would fuse the wire from battery as close to battery as possible, and use 12AWG. You should only need about 2 feet. (That will also give you a good perspective of how much shorter the power to energize the starter solenoid has to travel with this mod compared to stock.
Definately will be doing this. Right now, its all wired with 16 gauge and it works, but id feel safer with the 12gauge on the power. I just didnt have the right kind of connectors for 12gauge. those are on order now.
Thanks so much, Ray. You have a way with putting things in laymans terms and I appreciate that!
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
Way late to mention but you can try fiddling with the shifter, push it forward while you turn the key to take out any slop in the bushings. Mine had similar issues, but I wasn't getting a solenoid click just the cor, my quick fix was to just adjust the NSS with a multimeter plugged into the harness (wire/plug is near the starter). The factory manual adjustment is a pita, the shift lever blocks the alignment marks when attached.
Youre gonna make me dig the multimeter out of the trash, arent you? Well, crap...I hate that thing. Im sure it tried to kill me once already...
Originally Posted by habanero
Regarding the interior- WOW. Just WOW!
Glad you got the thing to turn over, I hear you on electricals.
Thanks so much, Ray.
Youre gonna make me dig the multimeter out of the trash, arent you? Well, crap...I hate that thing. Im sure it tried to kill me once already...
Most welcome. At work, finding effective ways to help people understand and get the point was a favorite... Not including water-boarding - LOL!
LOL!
Yes, please get that multi-meter back. I don't understand why probing for voltage would make the test leads hot
Ok, so here's what I did last night. It looks terrible and the leads are WAY too long, but they will be getting shortened and routed effectively when the truck is actually running. Just waiting on the proper sized connectors. But for now, it should work fine.
my dirty work station.
Leads crimped onto the relay harness by doomy.
Terminal ends.
Doomy doing work.
The little mark under the letters there...yea, don't tap the throttle body with the same ratchet extension you're tightening the positive battery cable with. Quite a shocking experience.
Melted the extension a bit.
Yes, the leads are coiled. They are waaaay too long, but will be cut shorter once I finalize where the relay will be.
Leads to starter and solenoid trigger wire.
I'm thinking about mounting the relay on one of the upper/lower intake bolts. That would provide a much shorter path.
I'm thinking about mounting the relay on one of the upper/lower intake bolts. That would provide a much shorter path.
Looks good. I recommend placing relay on inner right fender, just like in stock 1986-1988 with manual tranny. It's close to both the battery and the starter. Would also help IF other people are troubleshooting with you.
This is by no means permanent. haha. this is just a "get me by". I have BIG plans coming for the electrics. but primary goal is to get her running.
now, one thing i noticed is that when you turn the key, you can hear a faint "brzzt" from somewhere under the intake. im going to order a stethoscope to see if i can pinpoint where its coming from. maybe a pinched wire grounding out or my suspect wiring job for the injectors. who knows. i just know that i dont want a fire the first time i take her out on the road. As it is, i already squashed a pretty substantial fuel leak from the rear of the fuel filter. made me nervous that it was dripping on the starter. already had one vehicle go POOF into flames when working on it. hahaha.
03-17-2017, 11:39 PM
