sinneDBTB

finally got the 3.4 into the 4runner, just have a few concerns and questions before i go any farther.

1- is it normal for the engine to sit at a slight angle? lil high in the front?

2- it was a serious battle getting the last motor mount to line up? normal?

3- atf in the r150 tranny, transfer case and diffs sound right?

anyone who told you this swap is quick and easy is a liar! haha

i'll post some pics and more details soon

UKMyers

You just did a custom engine swap and your wanting to put ATF in your diffs and transfer case??? You may want to have someone look over your swap.

sinneDBTB

perhaps you missed the "?" after the question???

Thanks for the counter productive input though.

I've been told that regular gear oil is often to heavy and that ATF is the superior lube. Hence why I brought it up to the forum of Toyota experts.

dntsdad

I have heard of guys running atf in their transfer cases, but not the diffs and syncroed trannys like a R150. Doesnt mean that its not true. I have just never heard of it.

I know a lot of guys that run ATF in their dirt bike wet clutch trannys.

I never have personally however.

I would stick with the tried and true lubes.

MT-90 Redline seems to be popular in R150 and transfer cases. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90 in the diffs.

Tofer

Omg no... ATF works for the auto tranny and power steering fluid but my god it would be wayyy too think for diffs and 5sp trannys

sinneDBTB

Thanks for the input.
What about that Lucas gear oil I see at the parts counter?



My dad runs ATF in his 4spd '68 chevelle and 4spd '71 mustang tranny's.
It was him that made the suggestion I do the same.

dntsdad

Bobistheoilguy.com is probably the best oil site in the world. Search around over there for answers.

Personally I will be running Redline MTL in the transmission, MT-90 in the transfer cases and Mobil 1 synthetic in the diffs.

sinneDBTB

ok, I got my wiring and lubes figured out (I went synthetic 75-90, thanks dntsdad)
When i try to turn the key the starter cant turn over the engine! so i pulled out the fan and shroud and tried turning it by hand, wont budge. the funny thing is when i had it on the stand we got it to turn a bit but it was tight and twisting the stand so we figured it was just a bit tight from sitting. so i sprayed in a bunch of wd40 into the cylinders before i put the plugs in just in case... also when i first tried to turn it with the starter it would turn a lil bit but not more than a half inch or so at a time.
i am hoping its not completely seized up since it did move some before. maybe the rings are a lil bit rusty from sitting....

anybody have any ideas before i pull it out and tear it down? I was really hoping to get er started this weekend...

sinneDBTB

anyone?

dntsdad

Mine turns fairly easily with a socket on the crank bolt. If your doesnt I would be concerned.

You try taking some pressure of by removing the spark plugs to not build up compression. If it spins easily then, try it with the plugs installed again. If no go with the plugs out, I am afraid you have serious issues.

sinneDBTB

well, i pulled the engine out and tore it down, turns out that all the bearings are fine, piston rings are fine but the main bearing on the crank nearest the rear main seal was restricting movement of the crank. i just cant understand why... i tried torquing it to spec and its too tight. why would one bearing prevent motion in the crank???

hamish_18

Somebody slap me if I am out in left field, but if I remember when I was at the machine shop the machinest had his toyota book out for the specs on the bearings. He stated that there could be up to 3 sizes of bearings. and that sometimes the crank will have a different number per journal. There will be numbers stamped on the crank somewhere to tell you the numbers. Curious if somebody before you tried putting new main bearings on there and got all the same size, when they shouldn't have?

sinneDBTB

i was wondering the same, maybe the p.o. had the bottom end apart and mixed up some bearings or torque specs... today will tell, i'll keep posting my results.

dntsdad

Yes, this is correct. I went through this when my 3.0 that I swapped for spun a bearing.

sinneDBTB

i need to order a rebuild kit here but i need to determine whether my 99 taco engine is the early or the late model form that year. anyone know how to tell the difference? the dealer said i needed the serial # from the truck, but i bought the engine off a guy who bought the engine off a guy....

dntsdad

the block should have numbers on it. Did you look behind the timing belt cover? I think that its there.

Maybe someone else can confirm?

sinneDBTB

my crank is bent!!!

fortunately i bought a second engine for parts that i am going to rebuild and use.
so much for starting it up this weekend, another $1000 for a rebuild kit!

dntsdad

ah man, that sucks ass!!

Sorry to hear. I know that right now you are down but when its rebuilt you'll have a motor that will last forever.

keep your head up!

stihl460

If I could chime in. If you are going to rebuild your 5vz the kit from LC Engineering is the way to go. I am in the middle of rebuilding mine for my 89 swap (waiting for the heads to get done at the machine shop). Everything included in the rebuild except head bolts.

sinneDBTB

the guy at toyota told me you cant just buy any bearing kit and throw them in apparently everything is balanced/matched to the crank at the factory and you will find slightly different bearings in each journal.
so i went and pulled all the bearings and marked down the different #'s on each for the mains and con rods, I guess i'll have to get them from toyota.
I did a bit of calling around on parts... head gaskets were the most expensive part i've ever heard of even the part guys at the different stores i called couldn't believe it. Everywhere i called was over $600 canadian and one was $980! unreal!
I got a full rebuild gasket set from toyota for $600 and timing belt, thermostat, water pump, pilot bearing, and a new starter from lordco for $500 today (with a discount account #), still need to get piston rings and bearings.

Anyone suggest a good piston ring brand? toyota quoted me $590. Lordco had top line for $190. I dont think I want to cheap out on rings, but $590 is crazy.