hamish_18

hmm perhaps something off ebay? lol? That is crazy talk for that kind of money...

sinneDBTB

i'm kinda stoked as much as mad, i will have a brand new motor out of it in the end. i'd just like a lil bit of insight on what i should use for rings and bearings and maybe some mods....

sinneDBTB

i'm affraid to buy something so important from ebay, the price is right but who knows what your actually getting...

hamish_18

ya you really have to watch it. but sometimes you can find decent stuff on there, that is brand name, or at least oem. the off brand crap from China is what you have to watch out for....

sinneDBTB

can anyone chime in about these matters?

I was considering a new oil pump until toyota told me it would cost me over $400 cdn, same for the bearing sets.
actually i was considering not replacing the bearings since they show no signs of bad wear or copper but have 0.002" clearance which is within tolerance but very expensive to replace without having some machine work which is also expensive.

dntsdad

Easy to say since it isn't my money, but if you are going through all that time and hassle, I would do it correct and buy as many new parts as you can.

While it stinks that your motor is no good, it would be worse to go through all this and pull it again in 10,000 miles because a bearing went taking out the crank with it.

Try here for parts. They were always MUCH cheaper than my local dealer, even with shipping.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214074

sinneDBTB

ok, so i rebuilt my second 3.4 block with new everything but bearings and a oil pump.
Today I managed to get the engine in and reconnect everything and even start it!!!

Now I am at the starts but wont keep running phase, I know I have read this before but I cant remember where it was.... searching this site gets so frustrating... I always find the info I need when I am not looking for it specifically.

Anyone remember what to do with this step?

sinneDBTB

ok, i hard wired the fuel pump temporarily to keep the truck running and boom worked like a charm. I thought the ecm for the 99 engine controlled the fuel pump... turns out its only starting pressure then it cuts off and the f/p wire on the 90's IH1 plug needs to be hooked to power.
from what i read on the wiring diagrams the fuel pump is controlled by the COR and splices to the diagnostics port. which looks to be all intact. so should i wire the f/p on the IH1 to the COR or to a power supply on the 99's wire harness? how did you guys do yours?

dntsdad

My FP from the ECM goes into the stock 97 COR and then switch IGN to the fuel pump when the COR is energized by the ECM.

If I would not have had the whole vehicle here and thus had the stock 3.4 COR, I would have used an off the shelf relay since I have dozens of them here from prior projects.

sinneDBTB

the wire i jumped to power would have been the fp terminal in the 90's diagnostics box, so by energizing it i bypassed the COR right? which should lead me to believe it is malfunctioning? or perhaps there is another reason my fuel pump cuts out after start up...

dntsdad

Honestly, I dont know. Probably someone else can help you with that. I know that Monch used the stock 3.0 COR.

I just do not see the need to go through all the hassle. It a simple circuit that is no different that wiring a light, amp turnon, etc. You need more power than the output of the ECM can drive for the fuel pump. Thus a simple relay is needed and used. ECM energizes the relay, relay sends power to fuel pump. Done.

sinneDBTB

hahaha turns out i wired the fc pin on the ecm in a loop to itself somehow.... ooops. now i can start it and keep it running as long as i give it a bit of throttle. i'm thinking its the a/c idle up vsv? i pulled everything from the a/c out but i think the a/c idle up controls the fuel pressure up system, no? maybe i just need to take some slack out of my throttle cable? haha

sinneDBTB

I just put the first km on my newly rebuilt and swapped engine!
Damn it feels good to be behind the wheel again!

Tomorrow, I'll get the hood on and take her out on the highway for her maiden voyage to see if there is anything else that needs to be looked after before I drive it home to Vancouver!

Once everything is buttoned up I will post step by step how I made it happen!
Thanks to everyone who helped!

theMonch

So it sounds like you have your COR/fuel pump problem worked out? Every year is a little diffrent but for reference all I had to do was connect the ground wire from the 3.0 MAF (green on my older '88 and usually green/yellow on newer 2nd gen) to the Green Yellow from the FC terminal on the 3.4 ECM. The ECM grounds the FC terminal upon detection of a running condition.

The A/C idle up is controlled via the ECM and not a VSV (vacuum solenoid valve) on the 3.4, therefore if you have a low-idle stalling condition, I highly doubt it is A/C wiring related. I don't even have any of the AC wiring hooked up as of yet (going into fall here) and my motor runs fine. I would look for a mis-routed vacuum line somewhere or a intake track leak.

As for the throttle cable, as long as you have full range of motion on the throttle plate and the throttle cable does not inhibit full closing, then it should be fine. To test the full range of motion, have a friend depress the pedal from inside and then see if you can move the throttle plate further from the throttle body, if so then you need an adjustment or a cable swap. I personally had to swap to the T100 3.4 cable because my 3.0 cable (along with being old and worn) wouldn't allow full closure of the TB butterfly.

sinneDBTB

i was having a hard time figuring out why my engine would idle fine and accel slowly no prob but if i dumped the throttle it would bog right out and sometimes stall. so i started going back over the wiring and it turned out that the MAF sensor plug on the harness was pinned wrong??? took out the pins on the plug re-pinned it according to the wiring diagrams and problem solved. just cant understand how that plug could have been wrong. maybe the p/o had some sort of aftermarket intake system or something.
anyone else have this problem?

sinneDBTB

I now have about 1500 km on the newly rebuilt and swapped 3.4 and like many others my oil gauge reads quite low. I used the oil pressure sender from my orig 3.0 engine and the stock sr5 gauge cluster so I cant see why there would be a problem there? I know some people swap the cluster and then have trouble with matching the oil pressure sender. Since mine matched in the first place i should have a propper oil reading...?

I am concerned that there may be an issue with the oil pump since it is one of the only parts i didn't replace during rebuild.

I have noticed a pretty loud ticking from what I think is my valves.

Anyone have any insights or ideas?

Thanks

sinneDBTB

bumppp

sinneDBTB

my oil pressure is higher (around the 1/4 mark) when cold and the ticking is absent until the engine warms up. then the oil pressure drops to near the bottom mark and the ticking comes back. my first assumption is to do a oil change and get thicker oil and hope for the best. that and install my new aisin manual hubs.

sinneDBTB

bumppp

YOTAARMYGUY

I'm having the same oil pressure issue in my 90 runner. Did you ever find a fix?