22re (1986) to 3.4...notes
10-05-2009, 08:56 AM
#1
22re (1986) to 3.4...notes
Truck was originally a factory turbo truck, but air filter let a bunch of dust by and ate the newly rebuilt engine and turbo. I decided to attempt a 3.4L swap.
The engine and harness I got was out of a '99 Auto 4x4, but I'm using a ECM out of a '99 5spd 2WD.
I fabbed my own mounts because while the 51047-35030 (right side) is still available, 2 dealers are telling me that the 51048-35030 (left side) is not available.
I'm also using Downey headers, which came with the motor. I had to modify the collectors and aim them in towards trans about 5° (3 bandsaw cuts, fold them shut and weld them up) so they'll clear the frame by about 1/4". I also have to cut the EGR fitting off of the drivers side header so it'll clear the steering shaft. My engine doesn't use an EGR, so this shouldn't be a problem. The passenger side is a tight fit between the frame and the clutch slave...less than 3/4", so I had to reroute the fuel line from the side of the frame member to the top of the frame member and move the brake lines a bit outboard of the frame. I also made a heat shield for the slave and wrapped the collector with header wrap...so I hope that works. If not, I'll drill a hole in the clutch fork and go to a wilwood pull type slave.
I'm keeping the original R151 turbo trans, which bolts up using a bellhousing from a 3.0/5spd vehicle. Get the bellhousing bolts from the 3.0 too, because the 4 cylinder bellhousing bolts are too short now. I also had to move the trans forward 2 inches, which I did by cutting out the center of the crossmember, plating the ends, then welding it back in in the correct position. It will require a longer rear driveshaft and a modification to the shifter and shifter hole in the tunnel. I'm using a 3.4L clutch and flywheel with the stock 22RET throwout bearing and fork. With everything bolted up, the pedal feels good, but it's not running yet so I'm not sure if it will work. We'll see.
There's the mechanics...I'm almost done with the electrical, so I'll post my notes after that's done...hopefully this evening or tomorrow. I'll get some pics too.
The engine and harness I got was out of a '99 Auto 4x4, but I'm using a ECM out of a '99 5spd 2WD.
I fabbed my own mounts because while the 51047-35030 (right side) is still available, 2 dealers are telling me that the 51048-35030 (left side) is not available.
I'm also using Downey headers, which came with the motor. I had to modify the collectors and aim them in towards trans about 5° (3 bandsaw cuts, fold them shut and weld them up) so they'll clear the frame by about 1/4". I also have to cut the EGR fitting off of the drivers side header so it'll clear the steering shaft. My engine doesn't use an EGR, so this shouldn't be a problem. The passenger side is a tight fit between the frame and the clutch slave...less than 3/4", so I had to reroute the fuel line from the side of the frame member to the top of the frame member and move the brake lines a bit outboard of the frame. I also made a heat shield for the slave and wrapped the collector with header wrap...so I hope that works. If not, I'll drill a hole in the clutch fork and go to a wilwood pull type slave.
I'm keeping the original R151 turbo trans, which bolts up using a bellhousing from a 3.0/5spd vehicle. Get the bellhousing bolts from the 3.0 too, because the 4 cylinder bellhousing bolts are too short now. I also had to move the trans forward 2 inches, which I did by cutting out the center of the crossmember, plating the ends, then welding it back in in the correct position. It will require a longer rear driveshaft and a modification to the shifter and shifter hole in the tunnel. I'm using a 3.4L clutch and flywheel with the stock 22RET throwout bearing and fork. With everything bolted up, the pedal feels good, but it's not running yet so I'm not sure if it will work. We'll see.
There's the mechanics...I'm almost done with the electrical, so I'll post my notes after that's done...hopefully this evening or tomorrow. I'll get some pics too.
Last edited by lbhsbz; 10-05-2009 at 01:37 PM.
10-05-2009, 11:32 AM
#2
Hehe...well, my toyota dealer just dropped off the V-6 mounts that weld onto the frame, so I guess they are (or were) still available...it only took 2 weeks to get them.
Anyway, since I've already made my own, I'll let these go for $150 for the pair if anyone needs em.
Part numbers are 51047-35030 and 51048-35030. Dealer price on these is 90.23 each, which is what I paid.
Anyway, since I've already made my own, I'll let these go for $150 for the pair if anyone needs em.
Part numbers are 51047-35030 and 51048-35030. Dealer price on these is 90.23 each, which is what I paid.
10-12-2009, 09:39 PM
#3
Ended up not using the headers, but modifying a set of later style manifold and building my own downpipes that crossover under the trans. This worked very well with plenty of clearance everywhere.
Electrical. There are only a handful of wires you need to splice in. I kept all of the original dash harness and the original COR. I started by finding the ECM connector and the DLC and cutting it away from the rest of the harness. There are 2 grounds (W-B and BR), a shielded white signal wire (I tied both grounds into the shielding and ran another wire from that splice to a body ground) and a purple wire that comes from the OBDII 10A fuse. I just stuck a couple of female spade connectors in through the back of the interior fuse box into a 10A fuse to connect this. It looks stock, but make a note your fuse cover. You can cut all but the shielded wire. and connect them later.The entire shielded wire can be separated from the rest of the harness except an unshielded spot for a blue splice connector, which I cut away and simply soldered the white wire back together. The others can be cut.
(B+) - ECM key on power. Comes from the EFI relay. the originals were B-W, the new were W-R. I tied in at IK2 - 16. This wire also splices in inside the engine harness and provides power to just about everything under the hood that needs power.
(STA) - start signal to the ECM. This splices in at either IK3-10 or IK2-17...its a B-W wire, tie this into the big start circuit wire (either B or B-W) in the larger of the 2 original connectors.
(SIL) white wire for the DLC
(BK) brake light switch...not sure why you need this but there are multiple brake light switch wires right there...they should be G-W or W-G on the original harness, so I hooked it up.
(BATT) constant hot to the ECM...comes from the EFI fuse. new wire is B-Y, old wires are different colors, check whatever is coming off of your EFI fuse and use that.
There is a black wire from the ignitor at IK2-7 that needs to be tied into the old harness on the driver's side of the truck from the old ignitor. This wire goes straight from the old ignitor to the tach, and doesn't pass through any of the connectors in the pass. footwell. A new wire will need to be run.
There is a green/yellow wire from the ECM in position C18 that needs to be cut and connected to the the green wire going into the circuit opening relay...this will keep the fuel pump on after the key is released to the start position. The old harness ran this wire straight from the old MAF and it never passed through either of the connectors by the ECM...so I missed it at first. Don't just jump the fuel pump, do it right.
Water temp guage and oil pressure gauge are simple...yellow with a stripe...check the color of the wire at the sensor and tie 'em in to the old harness. I had to use my original coolant temp sensor and op sensor. If you have doubt as to weather you've found the right wires in the old harness, save em for last, turn the key on, touch the wire to a ground and watch which gauge moves. Don't leave the wire on the ground for more than a second or so unless you want to burn out the gauges.
Speed sensor, look at the cluster diagram on your original harness and you'll see this wire....its green and something, but changes between years. Tie this into the the body side ECM plug at A-12, should be green/orange on the new harness.
If you want your reverse lights to work you'll have to tie those in too but I don't really care so I didn't.
Run all the browns to ground...unless they have stripes on them..then consult your diagram.
These are the basics needed to make it run as far as I can tell.
After it's all said and done, it's relatively simple. The hard part is picking which 15 wires you need out of the hundreds of them available. I spent a lot of time with an continuity tester on the old harness just verifying which wires went where since locations were not marked.
My check engine light functions properly...key on, light on. Start engine, light off. no codes.
I'll post more if any problems come up.
Total cost so far:
Donor engine with full harness, A/T ECM, evap can, cat, and downey headers, $1200
Junkyard M/T ECM, $125
Junkyard manifolds and crossover $150
PS hose $30
3.0V6 bellhousing $50
3.0V6 oil pan and pickup $100
Drive shaft lengthen $100
3.4L clutch and flywheel $FREE
Reading glasses from CVS so I could see the @#%$^@% diagrams, $10
Total so far, $1765
i sold my old turbo motor in pieces for $1000, and I can probably sell the downey headers for $300 and the A/T ECM for $100 or so, so all in all this didn't cost me much more than a few hundred bucks.
Electrical. There are only a handful of wires you need to splice in. I kept all of the original dash harness and the original COR. I started by finding the ECM connector and the DLC and cutting it away from the rest of the harness. There are 2 grounds (W-B and BR), a shielded white signal wire (I tied both grounds into the shielding and ran another wire from that splice to a body ground) and a purple wire that comes from the OBDII 10A fuse. I just stuck a couple of female spade connectors in through the back of the interior fuse box into a 10A fuse to connect this. It looks stock, but make a note your fuse cover. You can cut all but the shielded wire. and connect them later.The entire shielded wire can be separated from the rest of the harness except an unshielded spot for a blue splice connector, which I cut away and simply soldered the white wire back together. The others can be cut.
(B+) - ECM key on power. Comes from the EFI relay. the originals were B-W, the new were W-R. I tied in at IK2 - 16. This wire also splices in inside the engine harness and provides power to just about everything under the hood that needs power.
(STA) - start signal to the ECM. This splices in at either IK3-10 or IK2-17...its a B-W wire, tie this into the big start circuit wire (either B or B-W) in the larger of the 2 original connectors.
(SIL) white wire for the DLC
(BK) brake light switch...not sure why you need this but there are multiple brake light switch wires right there...they should be G-W or W-G on the original harness, so I hooked it up.
(BATT) constant hot to the ECM...comes from the EFI fuse. new wire is B-Y, old wires are different colors, check whatever is coming off of your EFI fuse and use that.
There is a black wire from the ignitor at IK2-7 that needs to be tied into the old harness on the driver's side of the truck from the old ignitor. This wire goes straight from the old ignitor to the tach, and doesn't pass through any of the connectors in the pass. footwell. A new wire will need to be run.
There is a green/yellow wire from the ECM in position C18 that needs to be cut and connected to the the green wire going into the circuit opening relay...this will keep the fuel pump on after the key is released to the start position. The old harness ran this wire straight from the old MAF and it never passed through either of the connectors by the ECM...so I missed it at first. Don't just jump the fuel pump, do it right.
Water temp guage and oil pressure gauge are simple...yellow with a stripe...check the color of the wire at the sensor and tie 'em in to the old harness. I had to use my original coolant temp sensor and op sensor. If you have doubt as to weather you've found the right wires in the old harness, save em for last, turn the key on, touch the wire to a ground and watch which gauge moves. Don't leave the wire on the ground for more than a second or so unless you want to burn out the gauges.
Speed sensor, look at the cluster diagram on your original harness and you'll see this wire....its green and something, but changes between years. Tie this into the the body side ECM plug at A-12, should be green/orange on the new harness.
If you want your reverse lights to work you'll have to tie those in too but I don't really care so I didn't.
Run all the browns to ground...unless they have stripes on them..then consult your diagram.
These are the basics needed to make it run as far as I can tell.
After it's all said and done, it's relatively simple. The hard part is picking which 15 wires you need out of the hundreds of them available. I spent a lot of time with an continuity tester on the old harness just verifying which wires went where since locations were not marked.
My check engine light functions properly...key on, light on. Start engine, light off. no codes.
I'll post more if any problems come up.
Total cost so far:
Donor engine with full harness, A/T ECM, evap can, cat, and downey headers, $1200
Junkyard M/T ECM, $125
Junkyard manifolds and crossover $150
PS hose $30
3.0V6 bellhousing $50
3.0V6 oil pan and pickup $100
Drive shaft lengthen $100
3.4L clutch and flywheel $FREE
Reading glasses from CVS so I could see the @#%$^@% diagrams, $10
Total so far, $1765
i sold my old turbo motor in pieces for $1000, and I can probably sell the downey headers for $300 and the A/T ECM for $100 or so, so all in all this didn't cost me much more than a few hundred bucks.
Last edited by lbhsbz; 10-12-2009 at 09:55 PM.
10-30-2009, 05:26 PM
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I am a little confused, I have 86 pickup also that came with the 22ret I just recieved the truck with a 3.4 from?? I was told the harness is a 97-98 I have a auto ecu and a manual ecu the harness plugs into the auto ecu all but the big plug from the harness to the ecu I am running a manual tranny should the auto ecu work or do I need a new harness? I see you are running a auto harness also but my manual ecu will not plug in did you have to mod the harness to work? I am looking at all the unused plugs from the 22ret and not wanting to start cutting till I understand what to do.
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