I just got the swap mostly finished, but when I give it some throttle it bogs at first then revs up(this is when parked). When I am driving(under load) if I give it more than a feathering of throttle it will just bog and never come out of it until I let off of the gas. I flipped my MAS incase I had it in backwards and unpluged it and it seemed to be doing the same thing. It had no codes until I unplugged the MAS. I am also running the stock 3.0 exhaust setup with the 2nd O2 sensor installed, would the stock exhaust create to much back pressure, could this be my problem?
Any help would be great thanks.

 

Okay lets trouble shoot..

Make sure all the grounds are the motor are completed.. If you are missing some grounds then it will not run properly.

I would check there first, you need all the sensors hooked up as well.

 

I can't see any disconnected ground, off the top of my head I can think of 3 that are connected. I pulled the motor and trany out of a crashed donor, so I left everything plugged into the motor and pulled the wiring harnes out of the fire wall. I also have 2 more questions. Does the fuel pump run constantly on these or should it cycle when it pressures up? And since I put the new M/T in place of my A/T is there some more sensors I need to get from my donor? And I just cut the engine/body harness for the body harness plug, what all should I need to run back into that?

 

Okay so we need a little more info..

WHat vehicle do you have? Year, trans, engine.
What did the donor come from? Year, trans,

 

did you check the tune up on the motor?

 

My 4Runner is a 92 A/T. I swaped out the motor and trans for a 96 4runner with a M/T. I have the donor sitting out back if there are any parts I need.

 

All know is the spark plugs looked good.

 

The igniter from my donor was destroyed so I got one on ebay. Are most 6 cyl igniters compatible around this year? I ask because a few of the wires were different colors, but I used my EWD from techinfo.com and the igniter was labeled.

 

Does it matter what the wattage of the resistor is for the tach mod?

 

are they the double ground electrode?-the spark plugs. Original plug wires?

 

10k-Ohm.

Bought a pack of 5 from radio shack for $1

 

I was looking at radio shack's site and they have a few types of 10k ohm resistors that vary by wattage(1/4w,1/8w, 1/2w). So does the wattage not matter, because I can't find any info?

 

I don't really remember what they were. I was going to compare with my 3.0 plugs because I had just changed them, but the 3.4 plugs looked like they came right out of the box.

 

I don't know what wattage resistor your supposed to use, but I used 1/2 watt (because thats all I could find at the time) and it works ok.

 

Same here.

1/2 watt 5% tolerance 10k-ohm resistor.

 

I think I found the original problem. I didn't have the wire hooked up that powers alot of the sensors. But now I have a different problem. It is hard to start when it is cold, it backfires and has no power, it has more power in low RPM's and revs very slow over 3000 RPM.

 

Has anyone ever had proplems with pulling codes from the ECU? They kept on getting a error when I tried to get them. I checked and rechecked my plug wires and they are hooked up right.

 

5 out of 6 plugs.
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Do they look dry to any one else?

 

I will try and get a video up of the driving sounds and guages.

 

I have also experienced that issue. I'm going to the shop today again to try and get some codes... My 3.4 isn't even starting right now and the spark plugs are black and soaked...