HELP! Upper Control Arm Disassembly
#1
HELP! Upper Control Arm Disassembly
Noticed a destroyed control arm bushing on my drivers side UCA so I thought I would change out the bushings as part of my ball joint spacer install. The Haynes manual says to take the uppers in to a shop to have the bushings pressed out. I thought I would take a crack at it first though as one is pretty loose and one is nearly missing as noted above. The problem I've run into is the nuts on the ends of the arm have a dimple in them to lock them in place and i've had no luck banging the dimple back out. I tried wedging a sharp srewdriver in there and tapping it in with a hammer but that has gone nowhere. Any tips or tricks with these? Thanks.
Mike
Mike
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: outside philly
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I replaced my bushings not too long ago, you can do what I tell you at your own risk as it may end up costing you $$$$ in the end. I used poly bushings
The dimple part of the nut most people call "staking the nut". I tried like hell to remove mine. In the end I had no luck. So I just took a socket and put it on the nut. Took a huge breaker bar and loosened the nut. The stake came up as the nut loosened. Now before you do this read on.
Once the nuts are off take the 3 bolts hold the UCA mounts to the frame off, and remove the arm. The problem I had was that with that mount in the middle of the arm (and through the bushings) I had no way to press anything apart. My press was to small to fit the control arm into. I ended up taking a large adjustable two jaw puller and figured a way to mount it to the arm so that when I tightened it, the puller pressed the UCA mount into the larger bushing and pressed it out. Then I took a bottle jack between the arms and pressed out the smaller bushing. The metal sleeves that surround the bushing were stuck in place on the UCA. That worked for me cause i needed to reuse them with my poly bushings.
THE PROBLEM: At some point, either when loosening the staked nut, or when pressing the jaw puller on the UCA mount I stripped the first few threads on the mount itself. I couldn't get the nut back on. Of the four UCA mount ends only one stripped. The part cost $150 from the dealer. No matter what, I would recommend getting new nuts as the staked parts always seems to end up in the same place and it probably won't hold well if you reuse the nuts.
The dimple part of the nut most people call "staking the nut". I tried like hell to remove mine. In the end I had no luck. So I just took a socket and put it on the nut. Took a huge breaker bar and loosened the nut. The stake came up as the nut loosened. Now before you do this read on.
Once the nuts are off take the 3 bolts hold the UCA mounts to the frame off, and remove the arm. The problem I had was that with that mount in the middle of the arm (and through the bushings) I had no way to press anything apart. My press was to small to fit the control arm into. I ended up taking a large adjustable two jaw puller and figured a way to mount it to the arm so that when I tightened it, the puller pressed the UCA mount into the larger bushing and pressed it out. Then I took a bottle jack between the arms and pressed out the smaller bushing. The metal sleeves that surround the bushing were stuck in place on the UCA. That worked for me cause i needed to reuse them with my poly bushings.
THE PROBLEM: At some point, either when loosening the staked nut, or when pressing the jaw puller on the UCA mount I stripped the first few threads on the mount itself. I couldn't get the nut back on. Of the four UCA mount ends only one stripped. The part cost $150 from the dealer. No matter what, I would recommend getting new nuts as the staked parts always seems to end up in the same place and it probably won't hold well if you reuse the nuts.
#4
Yes, "stake". I knew there was a correct term for that but I just couldn't think of it when I posted. Thanks for the advice guys. Still not sure what I'm going to do with this. Probably taking the arms in to a shop will be easier/faster in the long run.
Bikeguy, did Toyota have those nuts on hand or did you have to order them? Seems like they have to order everything for our older trucks.
Bikeguy, did Toyota have those nuts on hand or did you have to order them? Seems like they have to order everything for our older trucks.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The nut is probably similar to the one I have to buy for the transfer case output flange. Technically, it's probably a dealer only part unless you really search.
I bet in your case with the control arms that you can use a good grade 8 nut with nylok insert. If it makes you feel better you could also add some loctite.
I bet in your case with the control arms that you can use a good grade 8 nut with nylok insert. If it makes you feel better you could also add some loctite.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: outside philly
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The nuts are just like the pinion and t-case flange nuts with the small collar, but i have no idea about diameter and pitch.
When i had to replace the UCA mount, whatever i got came with new nuts, bushings, metal washers, etc. I was able to reuse two of my old nuts because the staked area wasn't too bad. So i don't know if they are readily stocked or not. It took 3 weeks to get the part. I had finally found the part used but would have had to pull it myself. And honestly I wasn't looking forward to sitting in the dirt removing the torsion bar, balljoint, etc, etc. just to get the mount. Luckily the dealer called a day later and said the part arrived.
When i had to replace the UCA mount, whatever i got came with new nuts, bushings, metal washers, etc. I was able to reuse two of my old nuts because the staked area wasn't too bad. So i don't know if they are readily stocked or not. It took 3 weeks to get the part. I had finally found the part used but would have had to pull it myself. And honestly I wasn't looking forward to sitting in the dirt removing the torsion bar, balljoint, etc, etc. just to get the mount. Luckily the dealer called a day later and said the part arrived.
#10
Thanks for all the input guys. I got one off with Bikeguy's "brute force" method. Can't really get the socket on the other one due to the steering shaft in the way and now I'm back into a 12hr shift X 5 day grind at work so probably very little progress for the next few days. I'll get there eventually. Thank goodness it's not my DD anymore.
#11
Update on this job/problem: Got all the nuts off with with Bikeguys method...27mm socket, big breaker bar, lots of grunt and they came off just fine. I called a local Toyota here in AZ and they said the nuts were special order only and $5.37 each!!! I figured "screw that" and tried the old ones for re-use first. Anyway, the driver side is all buttoned up tight with no problems. Tomorrow the passenger side gets scrubbed, sanded, painted and put back together too. I don't anticipate any problems as that control arm came apart alot easier and the nuts look in better shape than the ones from the other side. I also ended up with a different part of the nut at the stake point so I was able to whack 'em with a punch and resecure them.
Mike
Mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
justdifferentials
Just Differentials
5
06-13-2022 07:40 PM
potatopants
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
4
09-15-2015 06:26 AM